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It seems that nothing is very consistent about the case engraving considering the 12:00 side of the case. I've discovered that prior to 1980 the engraving should read "REGISTERED DESIGN" , 1989-1981 this spot is vacant andonly the reference numbers is engraved. Starting in 1982 "Orig Rolex Design" appeared and al seemed cut-and-dried except for... I have seen example of factory engraving with and without a period after the ORIG. When looking through a mountain of images for a 16610 T I discovered that all of the "T" models seemed to have a period where the plain 16610 had no period. I have also ran into this on 1016 cases as well. If anybody can shed any light on this I would love to "see the light" so I can make my engraving more accurate.

Watch rebuild. As a reminder, originally it's my Big Dazza bought in September. I reworked the mid case bevel lugs, drilled and tapped to accept Athaya crown V2, brassed the bezel, and sanded the plexi. http://rwg.cc/index.php?/topic/181731-Another-Silix-6538-project Original Big Dazza Same watch after my work Now with the new dial lumed, and OnlineStore HK sanded and relumed hands. There is a lot of effort in this watch, but it is worth. I love this watch. I hope tomorrow is sunny...

Dear god I hope so, all of my APs have had expensive movement issues. I love APs but I can't hardly stand to buy or wear them anymore cause I'm so paranoid now. I've put over a grand into my Montauk Highway only for it to still not run well 😔 Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

What would you like? Here's some macro shots

He's even ranting on GEN sites!!!!!! http://forums.watchuseek.com/f15/breitling-people-avenger-1-series-avenger-ii-series-2850162.html

Most of the buyers are from the forums. If somebody finds us on google, obviously they do a 3 second research and than all the rep forums pop up and they buy with more confidence. The factories are businessmen, if they see a potential model and they do the math it's just business. Just because you or we think that a specific model would be hot sell there is never a guarantee for that and it can be a fiasco.

Wow man this is very impressive work. You are very skilled. Sorry that shrunk on you as it looks absolutely great.

Case test Badly the decal retracted drying.

Could you upload your psd (the single dial, not the one with several filling up a paper)? I'll try to do some basic superimposing this weekend if you wish...

Well this was today, but oh well. Dress for work - Gen Zenith Play - Gen Maranez

Only answer at the moment - the New dial and hands are near perfect

That was first attempt, the second go-round was spaced as in your pictures. But, my reason for starting this thread was to nail down THE STINKIN' PERIOD!!!!!! I never thought about the freakin' period until your project when you asked whether the period was there or not. Your research seems to parallel mine in that Sub models with 16610 T reference all seem to have a period. Al of the 16610 models I looked at don't. I have also seen pictures of two 1983 Explorers where one had a period and the other sans period. It's about to make my head unscrew!

I've sourced dials from any place I could find them. Otto Frei has blank dials that will fit ETA movements, painted but easily sanded down to bare brass. Those with date windows are in the ETA position, so they will not line up correctly with the date magnifier on a Rolex crystal. The cartel Explorer II can be used to build a 6542 by grinding the crown guards off, or as a 1675 with reshaping the guards. I used the dial that came with the watch and the movement, again sanding the dial to bare brass. I bought a genuine Rolex Submariner dial on Ebay that was really trashed, and sand that down to bare, soldered on dial feet to fit ETA. And I've taken bare brass sheet from a hobby store, rough cut a circle, drill the center hole and used a bamboo shish-ka-bob skewer as an axle to spin the dial on a bench grinder to round and size. Using metal, like a drill bit, makes the center hole bigger and ruins it. Then attached dial feet for a DG movement. Most of my work was with building the 6542. I had a gen dial from a friend of a friend, good price, in my first build. The problem is that Rolex used a 'capped' dial to fit it to their movement. That made for a lot of modifying to fit it to the ETA movement I was using. Eventually, several builds and re-builds later, it was flattened front and back, dial feet and decaled, and is in my ETA 6542.

I will update this thread when I get home, I have some pics, btw thanks JMB for my engraving

I know same old...I am so happy with the way this project turned out it is hard to grab somethings else. Not a bad pic considering I was doing 80mph when I took it.

Maxi Monday

The best rolex rep, is the one that you really like. When you do get it, you won't care what the forum thinks, you'll love it, and in the end, that's all that really matters.