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Might be an idea worth looking into. More vintage:

What do we think about just having a Wristie thread in perpetuity? The participation level on a daily basis for a new thread each day feels a bit lackluster. It may be cool to have them all consolidated. Just a thought. I'm wearing this, but the way.

Before I share the watch details and the story here is the specs and two pics: - gen dial - gen tachy - gen hands full set - gen midcase - gen bezel and bezel screws - gen 3126/3840 movement - gen crown and pushers - gen gaskets and seals - gen crystal - gen H series caseback - gen hornback straps - gen clasp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I decided to wear this old bird today ... And the non-quickset date indicator was left at today's date! It's been about a month since the last time I wore this watch! How lucky! The dang non-quickset is not so much fun sometimes ... PS. Miss 1966 still can dive to 200m with the topless-style bikini caseback

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Moab and I are working on it behind the scenes, will update when we have something. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

It sucks for sure mate, but you can't accept that kind of behaviour from a TD! I'll loan you a pam till you get it sorted, pm me Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Aside other projects I'm still trying to make "colored" Gilt dials ... I mean Gilt dials with some lines colored instead of gilt. A few days ago I showed you my first attempt for a "Red Depth Gilt dial" but I had a HUGE problem with the color applied under the decal. It was, IMHO, a nice try but the Red Depth was very bulky and lef a "lump" on the decal ... so not very useful. This week I made my second attempt, not with a "Red Depth" but with a SYL. Everything is gilt and black, apart from the "Serpico Y Laino" which is "shiny white". It's not a complete success because I have designed the SYL letters too little and too thin so it's not very flashy or even easily readable. But this point is quite easy to rectify (just need to spend some time on Illustrator). The VERY GOOD point is that the colored line is not bulky anymore ... everything is smooth. And it means that in a few days (or weeks) I'll be able to show you a nice "Red Depth Gilt Dial" First pic - the dial "fresh" from applying - not finished nor varnished Second pic - same dial (still nor varnished) in the 6538 I used as a guinea pig for my thread "Easiest way to drill vintage case lugs for 2mm bars when you're a city dweller" The next one will get some lume

"It's a trial and error thing, you get the feel of how tight a ring should be only by doing it." +1 First step is to be sure the case neck is 28.2mm and the crystal is very close to oem spec. Next step is to make sure the crystal retaining bezel is a proper fit over the crystal (have to learn this by trial and error as stated above). Then it is up to how good the rotating bezel fits over the crystal retaining bezel. For what it's worth (nothing), I installed and removed a ST/Clark/watchman 408 rotating bezel over the crystal retainer bezel 30 or 40 times to see if it would become loose enough to be easy to knock off (all parts from the same kit). The answer is No. It still fits fine, has the proper tension when turning, and has no tendency to get knocked off. After installation, the trick to preserving 'tightness' is to always use a spacer/tension washer and push down on the rotating bezel when turning it. Pushing down greatly reduces friction and wear where the rotating bezel is snapped onto the crystal retaining bezel. Sometimes the tension washer can be a real headache and I have had to reduce the OD, enlarge the ID, and/or thin them down quite a few times. If you have a rotating bezel that turns Ok most of the way around but has a tight spot or two, you can smear Simichrome polish etc between them and turn the bezel back and forth a few dozen times and it will usually loosen up. Sometimes you have to replace the polishing compound 3 or 4 times. Be sure to remove the rotating bezel and clean all the polishing paste off when finished. Use a thick rubber glove for traction when turning the bezel through the tight spots. A very thin coat of liquid dishwashing soap will also help the crystal retaining bezel slip over the crystal and when it dries it is no longer very slick. Besides that, you can rinse most of it away under warm water when finished, unlike grease. You do not want any lubricant at all between the crystal and case neck for two reasons: 1...It may travel onto the dial. 2...It can make the crystal and both bezels easy to knock off of the case neck in one piece. A bit of grease between the rotating bezel and crystal retaining bezel will smooth out the action for a while but it collects dirt over time and turns into grinding compound. I have had the best luck with ST/Clark/watchman 408 bezel kits...the ones with the matte finish. MBK kits that come on the watches have been hit or miss. Never used a WSO kit. Genuine can be hit or miss too.

Going on 11 years owning this one with ETA 7750 Mov't + day/date wheels and The Zigmeister lined the dial/hands... Taka AR'd crystal. Reliable workhorse is an understatement!

I've had very little trouble fitting a WSO ring to a gen. I did it for the Nastymariner and a friend's 1675. Pop off the bezel and flat spring Slip a single-edge razor blade between the ring and case Tap gently with hammer or etc, and work your way around and around the ring .....after awhile the ring will appear lifted up a bit from the case Slip a thin screwdriver in the slot and twist a little, work your way around the ring .....pretty soon the ring and crystal will come right off the case .....sometimes the ring comes off and leaves the crystal on the case (preferable) Test fit the new ring onto the crystal as it sits on the case. It should be pretty snug but not too snug If you can press the ring all the way down to the case with your thumbs it's too loose If the ring won't go more than 1/2 way down, it's too tight Sand the inner face of the ring and test fit again. I use a little vaseline on the ring as I press it. If the ring is too tight, you will crack your rare/expensive crystal. When the fit seems right with the ring/crystal/case, orient the date mag over the date aperture, add a tiny smear of Vaseline around the crystal around its base, and press the ring all the way on in one smooth motion. Install the flat spring and snap the bezel on. It should be perfect. If the bezel won't turn, either it's not snapped clear on, or the ring is holding the bezel down tight against the case On the Nastymariner I repeated step 3 just a tiny bit to lift the ring, and the bezel freed up nicely. It's a trial and error thing, you get the feel of how tight a ring should be only by doing it. Too tight and the crystal cracks, too loose and it won't stay on the watch and it will leak. This is where the Vaseline helps, because the ring sliding on presses the lube down beneath it, and into the gap between the crystal and case... and you don't have to make the ring quite so tight on your expen$ive crystal. Good luck!

Daytona - A legend reborn Rolex Submariner Story

There could be a way : - nail varnish instead of printing - under the decal instead of on the decal Here is a pic (bad one) of my first attempt. Considering I dont have a long experience with decal dials, I would say that it's promising. The problem is the thickness of the varnish. A way to avoid that would be to : - grind the "red zone" with a Dremel before putting the varnish (unfortunately I dont have a Dremel) - fine sand the varnish (when completely dried) until it does not "pop" from the dial anymore - polish to get a smooth surface - put the decal on the dial Next week I'll try to borrow a Dremel, test that method and post a feedback..

Absolutely. Limited to making for people I know and like. Lol I tread softly along the fine line separating raving insanity and lucid moments of ingenuity. The issue is I've no idea which is which mostly.

New dial today [emoji632]

Hi guys just been nudged by@Wobby82 to come over more often [emoji6]. That last one was pretty popular, still get a lot of questions about it! I do try to evolve constantly and improve my work, and I also get pushed by people who commission builds from me to try new things. Currently working with airbrush a lot and finding it very enriching. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk Pro