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Because we don't do builds for other people, we do them for ourselves. As I stated in my earlier post, there is a limit (for me) of what I will spend on gen parts for a build. It's the whole cost/benefit ratio. I try to complete my builds for less than the going sales prices on the boards, so even though I am building for me and not to sell, if circumstances dictate that I need to, I won't get hurt too bad in the process (or at all). Case and point, my 16014 DateJust. It is 100% genuine parts aside from the ETA 2824 (granted the hands are gen Tudor, not Rolex). Took me awhile to gather all the parts, but that build cost me less than you can see others selling for here with not much more than a gen dial and crown/tube. It gives me great pleasure to see a build that does not have the same quality parts as one of mine sell for more than I have invested. On the other hand, I have seen people do builds with 100% gen parts and spend close to what it would cost to buy the gen. That I would never do, but to each their own. Omega Planet Ocean and modern Daytona builds can easily go down that rabbit hole. I choose not to play in that space, but respect anyone who wants to take that leap, and will applaud the quality when they show it off to us.

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Welcome to our community. The 1016 was my first love when it comes to Rolex and I am still very fond of them. As was said above it is a three hand movement with no added complications to worry about. I'm no wizard when it comes to watchmaking but I do know this, the most important thing is patience. Watches are fiddly little things and often when building our sort of watch with parts from here and there, problems are encountered. Learn to walk away, take a break, have a think, ask questions if you are stuck and go back to it relaxed and calm. Anyone who tells you they never ruined a part while building is probably lying and of those that admit it, I suspect most are like me and destroy parts when getting wound up because the £@@*ing thing won't fit. At times like these it is awfully tempting to use a bigger hammer and the results are never good.

Yup, seeing yours the other day sent me on a mission! Love it! Mine has a rose gold bezel though

IMO gen crystals are only worth it if: 1) the crystal is plexi (the non-OEM crystal profiles never match OEM perfectly) 2. the crystal has a LEC or AR coating

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If any proof to how good a quality some of these "replica" pieces are, ii will leave the following images to be judged by the eye of the beholder. This is my first bue sunburst model I purchased in 2004 from Paul known at the time as aspire. All thanks to our fellow emeritus member AUTOMATICO. I Have worn this every day since I purchased it and serviced it only once in 2011 and I have gone swimming and diving with it without a problem. It has had the crown and tube changed to a generic one as I could not get the correct one with the rolex emblem from anywhere!! The next one is one I purchased for my father for his 75th birthday in 2004 from Silix (Jay and Angel) when Paul's website disappeared. My dad loved it so much and it never left his arm. Although he was retired, he was still servicing marine boat engines and this watch took a lot of punishment as you can see from all the scratches and the missing original bracelet. Knowing Dad he also used it under water. I took it for a service a couple of weeks before he died and was always asking me about it. Sadly, he never got to see it where ironically the watchmaker phoned me on the day of his funeral to pick it up. I have left it untouched as a relic since as it has traveled with him to London, Italy and Australia which makes it very priceless to me being more valuable than any genuine. If quality control is a issue here, then all products should come with eternal warranties

Yesterday I removed the stem of my hbb v6 a7750 in order to correct a subdial. When I put back in the stem the watch started running but when I had the stem all in the watch the movement suddenly stopped. Winding, date setting and time setting works all perfectly but the movement is not doing a single thing How can I fix this? Is this a problem with the hack lever? Thanks in advance and merry christmas to all

The watch is back on my writs without the hacking possibility and futhermore the chronograph function is not doing a single move when pressing the buttons. But I think this is a different cup of coffee right?

Forget about dissembling the movement down to the stage in your photo, you will never get it back together again, trust me! I guess that you have jumped/pushed the hacking lever out of the groove that it sits in the castle/clutch wheel. You need to try the least intrusive method of fixing it as there are many pitfalls that will leave you in a much worse position. I would try this.... Remove the balance assembly. To do this you just remove the 1 screw that is located at the 4 o'clock position in your photo above. Using a pair of tweezers gently lift up the balance bridge that the balance wheel sits underneath. As you lift it up the balance spring and wheel should follow. Sometimes the balance wheel can get hooked and you don't want to damage your balance spring so give it a little wiggle to release it. If all go's well then you will be holding the balance c ock (bridge) with the balance wheel dangling by the spring. This is OK the balance spring will not be damaged with just the weight of the balance wheel. Gently place it somewhere safe:) Now with a pin or needle you should be able to push the end of the hacking lever where it pressed onto the balance wheel. Try doing this with the stem inserted and engaged for normal use. Wiggle the stem to see if you can 'jump' the hacking lever back into it's groove. You may need a helping hand to do this You will know if you are successful when you move the stem in and out of the hand setting position the end of the hacking lever will move in and out where you have been pressing on it with the pin. If all go's well then you need to replace the balance c ock. To replace the balance c ock(bridge) gently lift it back into position with tweezers, it's quite tricky as you have to align the impulse jewel with the pallet lever which is underneath and out of view and the top and bottom pivots of the balance wheel.. But don't stress, this all sounds difficult but with a bit of perseverance you will have it back on. Before you tighten the balance c ock screw gently flick the balance wheel (stem in normal running position) and the watch should run. If doesn't start ticking then you either have the impulse pin outside of the pallet fork or your pivots are not in there holes. Do not tighten the balance c ock securing screw until you have it installed properly! If the balance wheel is located properly or the watch is ticking then start to tighten the balance c ock screw, if at any stage the balance become trapped or stuck STOP! loosen it and start again. Summary: Remove balance assembly Press end of hacking lever with pin or needle with stem inserted and wiggle stem to get hacking lever back into correct position. Replace balance assembly ensuring balance is moving freely before tightening retaining screw. Job done? I would say this is the least intrusive method and 'may' work. If it does not then I think you need to get it to a watch smith as removing the hands and dial then messing with the keyless works is tricky stuff. Good luck

Thank you so much ceejay for this input! It is exactly what happened to me. When I inserted the stem the first time I had some problems and I think I just misaligned the hacking lever then?! Anyhow, the balance wheel won't turn when stem is in. Now I am able to take off the dial. Do you think it's an easy fix as soon as the dial is off? Or can I also access this hacking lever with taking off the bridge like on the picture? Thanks and hope to get this baby fixed soon