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I've always loved the 16610LV and after waiting for a TC LV to pop on m2m (which never did or I always missed out), I jumped on a JF 16610LV. This base actually works better for me as the SH3135 takes gen parts vs. the TC which uses an A2824 variant. Mods so far: -TC LV insert -Gen crystal no LEC & no AR cyclops -Gen date wheel -Gen date intermediate wheel -Star Supply gen spec tube -Rehaut sanded Waiting for: -Gen LV dial -Gen LV hands -Gen reversers -Gen ratchet wheel -Gen automatic driving wheel -Gen crown -Gen tube I think the dial and hands will really set this thing off and will service the movement once the dial and hands come in. The automatic system isn't fully winding to max PR and I think once the reversers and driving wheel come in - it will be a lot smoother and more efficient. I also have a gen blue insert I could always pop on and make it a shark/smurf if I ever get bored of the green. Thanks for looking and I'll update as more of the parts come in.

The replica daytonas with full working chronos are too thick, and the movement used in them is a lot less reliable. The ARF ones have chronos that work partially (up to 60 seconds), and the correct thickness, or at least one which is much closer vs gen. The movement, though not as reliable as say, the A2824 or 2836, is still more reliable than the modified A7750 sec@6 with full working chrono. I agree with @themannier though, the non working chronos are not issues at all. Let's face it, chronograph functions on watches these days are 99% unused and serve more as decoration, adding complication to the dial. I hardly even touch the chronos on my gen daytonas. In this hobby, it is often that we make decisions about what we can live with, and what we cannot. For me personally I will rather have the correct thickness, a more reliable movement, and I can live without working chronograph. You have to make your own decision about your preference though.

Latest and greatest build so far! 6542 pan am with a gen cal. 1030 gmt beating inside. a dream came true Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi im searching for a GMT and am not sure of the good trusted dealers anymore. Can anyone suggest any dealers and point me in the right direction with a link or two if you know any. Looking for this watch in particular

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Anytime brother. That is why were are here. To help and learn from each other. While the demand for the movement from Yuki himself had drop drastically the demand for the movement hasnt. Everyone still wants a good 3135 clone. Few things has made this hobby blow up and set the preference's really high. 1)The invention of the clone 3135. Yuki or SH. Even the SA if parts were available. 2)The invention of Rolex spec cases. Use to be only phong and some Vietnam places. TC or Sean some WM9 ones. Noob is killing it. Coming out with the 116610 case that can fit every rolex part. Amazing. If they continue down that line the sky is the limit. A good working replica movement will last years. Add that to a real rolex spec case and add all rolex parts, dial, feet, date wheel crystal, bezel..... you have a watch that you can wear with pride. You have a watch that will never get called out. This is why I love his hobby so much. The pride of wearing a watch I made. Heck I build a rolex sub 16610 from all rolex parts. The movement, only the main plate was used. Every other part was new sealed in bolster package's. I didn't have all the screws because it is very hard too find a screw kit. So Mike (Misiekped) ordered them for me. I sent him the parts and it came back amazing. I took that and used rare 16610 dial with just SWISS on the bottom, used 16610 case with late U serial number which would match that dial. New sealed crystal ring. Used beat up bezel (ad character) new click spring and tension washer. NOS crystal with no ar and no LEC from sub007. 703 crown also from Sub007. New tube, I have in stock. New bezel insert. The bracelet had brand new 501b end links I had ahead of time sent my 93150 to Michael Young for service. Everything came back great but the clasp. But it closes and fits perfectly. This is a watch I wanted to build for a long time. Every part is rolex built by me. I call it a ROBEX. LOL. Really this is why we are all so close here on Rwg, Rwi, repgeeks. we all love this hobby and he satisfaction if gives. We all have the same purpose. To have the best rep possible. I have taken it to a little extreme LOL. People ask me, why dont I just buy a real one. Truth is I have. Lots of times. I get zero satisfaction from doing it. In fact everytime I get a pit in my stomach thinking why did I just drop $10,000 on a watch. I can tell you I have never had that feeling after building one. Its always satisfaction and happiness. Pride in a way. I show it off. Love it. Thanks to forums like this and guys like all you guys.

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No the factory that was making it for Yuki started making it for other dealers. Yuki is not a person. Its a family company. Do you remember the bombing in France a few years back? Well one of his family members died there. One of the guys and I were friendly and he messaged me saying that they were closing for a few weeks and going to the services. When I needed parts to repair yukis, I would contact them and they were really cheap. what they started too do was send me broken movements and I would use them for parts. It was hard at first. If I would order 10 yuki's. 4 were bad. I would used 6 and make a few parts movements. The ones that were worst. Yuki knew it. There were two versions of Yuki movements. One time after getting a bunch of the new ones, I got a combo batch. I called them and they had zero idea that there were 2. He doesn't work on movements. He was just the middle man. He brought them from a factory and sold them. What kills me is that now the TD's are selling them for $180. So lets say it cost the TD $100 and they are making $80 on it. If a movement cost Yuki $100 each. He was making $280 per movement and had a monopoly. That is what I started thinking back when I blasted him. They were ripping us off the whole time and when the JF factory started getting ready to sell the SH3135, Yuki tried to make as much as he could before the floor fell out from under them.

I agree these JF are pretty good base... you can sink a load of $$ but really they are good enough with a little fettling. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It is worse. The 3135 and 3135 clone fit loosely in the case. You have use really long movement tabs and bend them in a weird shape to secure the movement in the case. The JF is much better in this regard plus it is engraved between the lugs. I have this same version in transit to me. After owning 3 of these JF's and going crazy on one build upgrading damn near everything from the dial, crystal and insert, crown etc.., I have found that for me, the only upgrades this needs is a gen datewheel and a gen insert. Everything else is good enough for me.

Those pics look a little better. At least the rehaut looks better from the one pic. I dont know. Have him open the back and show you the beautiful 3186. Why doesn't he send you a set of good pics? Why all angle crap that looks odd? If I were trying too sale/buy a $9000 watch I would send or require a lot more pics that 2 at really odd angles. My gut is still no it isnt real until he proves it. Good thing is that there is no fake 3186 case out there that I know of. You have some really great watch makers here like Misiekped who makes his own movement rings and can put in a real 3186 in a Noob 2836 GMT case and then all the stock Rolex parts can go onto that case. Have the person that is trying too sale you the watch take pics directly straight then the case in every angle and also the clasp and band. Engraving of the case and the case back off and pictures of the 3186. That would prove that at least he has a real one in his hands. Look at @efthi's and mine. They look very crisp and mine at least is on a galaxy phone. A Real Rolex is an investment. Good luck brother.

"Yeh, selling the dial might be the best idea. Building a franken 1680 can easily run $2500-3000 with a good case and a 1575 movement." True. Maybe start from scratch and go with an Eta 2846 etc and a Yuki dial. It is not hard to modify an MBK 5512/5513/1680 case to accept an oem spec 1680 dial but it really needs to be done on a lathe. Otoh, with Eta movements you may have DWO/date magnifier hassles. A 5512/5513 project is much easier. I wonder if a Yuki 1680 dial made for an Eta 28xx has the standard Eta date offset or standard rolex date offset? Probably seen it here but can not remember. If the dials have the Eta offset, crystal magnifiers will be a problem. It seems today's high prices for 1520/30/60/70/75 movements have put the brakes on Frankenstein projects. Plus many of the movements need relatively expensive parts and you have to pay The Doctor Price for rolex movement service. ...and The Nurse Practitioner Price for Eta service.