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All this has begun because my wife heard about my "Miss Bond" project a few months ago (my sons are faulty here ... they can't keep a secret). Now she's impatiently waiting to see that watch, but I'm never satisfied of the dials I build for that project and always delay the finishing. So I've had the idea, to smooth a little the waiting process, to design a simple build for her for Valentine's Day. I started with what I must call an "overdecorated" project ... something really too "sweetened" I showed that project to some friends and they asked me if I really wanted to produce what they called a "shamallow watch" So I have decided to build something a little more ... "less" THE BASE WATCH : I started with a 36mm Datejust from Silix ... nothing really special about that watch except the nice sunburst effect on the dial And please dont call me a Scrooge This is, indeed, a cheap base watch, but the final result is much better IMHO And she (my wife) will get a diamond (real) ring as a birthday present while we will be in Saigon next April NEW BRACELET : The Oyster bracelet that came with the watch was really not comfortable (at the least) even after a baby oil bath. So I quickly swapped for a Jubilee bracelet which is much more soft on the wrist and had a real "jewellery" look to the watch. I've had to bend a little the springbars so that they could fit in the holes inside the lugs, so that was not a 5 minutes swap but evrything went well at the end. I've had the watch on my wrist for a few days just to be sure it was working OK and kept time well, then I begun modding it. THE DIAL MOD : I have kept my first idea of a gradient pink layout, kept the "red hearts" too ... but the central "LOVE" writing had to go to the bin ... really bad taste it was ... sometimes I wonder "what's on my mind" I did not took pics while modding the dial but it's really an easy and simple modd, as long as you keep the path and act patiently enough. This method can be used for any other DJ and/or DD dial mod, as long as you want to get a "soft" and "non covering" color pattern. PREPARING THE DECAL : 01 - scan the existing dial so that you can use it as a template 02 - open the scan with photoshop (or the gimp) and resize it to the dial's size 03 - create the pink gradient pattern with the air-brush tool on an specific sheet 04 - open a new sheet and place the "hearts" ... playing with different sizes and taking care not to place them over the printings of the dial 05 - create a tiff image with only the pink pattern and the hearts (not the dial used as a template) and print it on a clear decal sheet ... the difficulty here i to play with the color density because when put on the dial the pink pattern will be less dense ... so if not enough density when you print and the pink pattern wont be visible but if too much density and the sunburst effect on the dial will disappear 07 - spray 2 coats of matte varnish (waiting 24 hours between each) and let dry PREPARATING THE DIAL : 08 - carefully release the bar indeces and the coronet ... warning !!! those parts are really tiny and have a tendency to satelize themselves ... and take care not snatching the tiny lume dots 09 - carefuly "clean" the holes on the dial, where you will insert the pins under the indexes and coronet when putting them back ... I use a really thin needle (used for sawing silk) with a handle made with painter's masking tape PUTTING THE DECAL ON : 10 - moisten the decal sheet ith tepid water then put it on the dial ... there will be some "bubbles" where the decal covers the lume dots but we will take care of that later 11 - let dry for 24 hours so that the decal has perfectly stuck ... it's really important because we wont put any varnish now because it could hide the sunburst effect on the dial 12 - moisten the decal with "micro sol" (in fact I use white vinegar ... much cheaper and works perfectly) only where it covers the lume dots and xait for about 5 minutes ... then the decal is softened so you can press it around the lume dots with a moisten paper towel ... the decal should perfectly deforms arround the lume dots and ... no more bubbles 13 - let dry for 24 hours PUTTING THE INDEXES AND CORONET BACK ON : 14 - get the "silk sawing" needle and carefully pit the decal where there is holes on the dial ... so that the pins under the indexes and coronet wont tear the decal 15 - put the indexes and coronet back and gently press on them so that the pins are perfectly pushed in ... get some eyewash and use it cause your eyes are probably aching now 16 - put the dial upside down on a soft fabric and put a really thin coat of hypo cement on the holes where the pins are inserte ... just to secure everything 17 - let dry for about 24 hours THAT'S IT ... now you can put the dial on the movement, put the hands back, case everything and enjoy ... or offer of course, if it is a gift UPGRADES SCHEDULED and/or CONSIDERED : BEZEL ... scheduled : After RWI shutdown I thought I would never get the nice engined urned bezel that ZuluGMT offered on sale (I didnt had his PP adress and he didnt had my shipping adress). Fortunately RWI is back and since today the bezel is on his way to me. So in a few days it will be there and will take the place of the flutted bezel. ENDLINKS ... scheduled : The endlinks that came with the Jubille bracelet are really bad, even after reworkong the polish/brushed effect. So I will replace them really soon ... probably from Raffles CROWN ... scheduled : The crown is ... really not perfect ... like many crowns on Rep Datejust. Too low on the case, inside chamfer to enough present, etc ... I first thought about reworking the inside chamfer to make it look better but I finaly search for a much better "crown + tube" set ... possibly Gen if I can get a good offer (and it I can fi it) CLASP ... considered : It keeps well closed and is not too much ugly ... but a little ugly evertheless So it will depend on how my better half keep loving her watch ... if her first entusiasm evolves into passion and if that watch keeps on her wrist then I'll opt for a clasp swap. After that ... we will see if I stand there of go to something better ... the DG283 keeps time pretty well but it's a cheap movement, so possibly a 2843-2 and a new handset All this will depend on how my beauty loves her new beauty Of course all (constructive) opinions and (good) advices are welcomed so please feel free to post here PICS : Indeed ... so I here they are Perhaps I put too many pics of the dial but I wanted to try to show how the pattern can change from "dark pink" to "almost invisible" just depending on the lighting

This is my very try to actually take some decent pictures of my collection, if you see a watch of which you would like to see a close up, let me know, I made individual shots of each and every one

I receive several PMs daily from various members, mostly newbies. Most of them wants to know various basic stuff: who the trusted dealers are, which model is the best, do I have this and that model for sale etc. Questions which are harmless in themselves. My gripe is with the feeling that the senders of the questions usually do not display good manners and most don’t bother to say please, thank you or do a basic introduction of themselves. Yes we are a close knit community and we should help one another whenever we can. Yet I cannot help feeling that such exchanges can be much better greased with basic manners and pleasantries, especially when the asker is new and feeling his way around. I used to be a lot more patient with such PMs and will spend time and effort to answer the questions posed, only for most of the guys asking to just vanish without even a simple thank you, after getting the information they seek. Do you guys get the same kind of PMs sometimes, and how do you feel about them or deal with them? I am selective about who I choose to help or respond to these days. It is ok if you’re new and want to get shortcuts to the info you seek. I did that as well when I was new. But it is not ok, in my opinion, not to bring good manners along when you’re expecting someone else to spend time to help you out. Yes this forum exists as a platform for all of us to enjoy the hobby better. So even when you’re new and know nothing, you can still make the exchanges better by being polite and appreciative. It’s like asking for directions and then spending 2 seconds to say thank you rather than just walk away without saying anything at all after getting the help you need. To the newbies, manners maketh man. If you bother to take the time to send a PM and expect a meaningful reply, then please, display less self-entitlement and better manners. Nobody owes you anything and good manners is the grease that keeps the cogs of interaction turning smoothly. Will you take the time to answer the PMs that you send, even if you know the answers? It is ok to ask questions, but not ok to feel that you are entitled to answers automatically just because you’re asking them. I’ve ignored about 50% of the PMs sent to me in the past 3 months due to the self-entitled sounding questions. Come on newbies, if you expect me to respond to you meaningfully, then be better mannered please. Else just post your questions in the forum and let whoever is willing answer them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"Ruby reply today , 1680 case is 680$+50$ custom engraving+shipping." Just for fun, here are some of my cases with prices from the past: March 2011 - like new Yuki 1680 case...$420 from 'Stilty'. Traded it for a like new Phong 1655 case/dial with a member. Still have the 1655 case...stalled out for a long time by GMT movement parts search. Finally have all the parts...around $2500 so far including 1575 movement/GMT parts etc. August 2011 - used DW 5513 case, no case back...$50. Put a 'River' case back from sapphire Exp II and Clark bezel kit on it. Had a 1520 with Yuki dial in it for a while. Put the mvt in an MBK 5513. Still have the DW case. March 2012 - two new MBK 1680 watches from Narikaa...$800 for the pair, delivered. Put a 1575 and Yuki dial in one case for a while, other watch is still complete. One had a nice 93150 bracelet with hollow mid links, other had 93150 with solid mid links. Dials were Ok but had been roughly ground down to fit in 26.0mm dial seat. Machined the dial window for the 26.5mm 1680 dial. 2011/2012 - about 10 new assorted DW cases, some 5513, some 1680, some unmarked. Paid $150 to $200 for them. All are 1680 spec. Still have them. A lot of posts probably still up about them. September 2013 - one new IG44 1680 case from a member, $300. Best finished case of them all (that I have). The lugs have a slight 'canoe' shape (side view). Have a no hack 1575 and early genuine 1680 dial for it...the mvt/dial combo is in a DW case now. May 2014 - one 5513 and one 5512 case from Yuki plus one 'free' dial...$1100 for it all. Very good cases. Still have them. January 2017 - complete new MBK 5512 watch with 2836 etaclone and bracelet (oyster with riveted on side plates and solid links) from RWG member...$400. Put a Yuki dial and rolex 1570 in it. Notes: All MBK cases (5512/13, 1680) that I have are genuine rolex 1680 spec except they are made for a 26.0mm dial. If you make a 5512/13 with rolex 15xx movement you will need to use a 1575 date calendar spacer, center wheel, and cp. All DW cases (5513, 1680) that I have are genuine 1680 spec and all have a dial seat/window made for a 26.5mm dial. If you make up a 5512/13 you will have to use the date parts same as with an MBK case and there will be a space between the outer edge of the dial and case because of the 1680 spec 26.5mm dial and 26.0mm 5512/13 dial. I have seen pictures and read about early genuine 5512 with a space showing. Someone could make up a pretty good early 5512 with the dial gap and PCG and the rounded sides would add to the character. http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/thread/1468292473/last-1468326320/View+All DW cases are high quality but the sides are rounded like a DJ, not flat, giving them an 'aged' look. The lug holes may be a hair too close to the lug tops when drilled out to 1.3mm or so. The case necks are a hair too small and it is hard to find a 1680 crystal that fits exactly. Making up a 5512/13 is not as bad because T19 crystals come in many sizes (GS crystals for example). DW watches came with 'spring wire' bezels and need a Clark, ST etc. bezel kit. The engraved numbers are Ok but many are unmarked. Some DW cases have undersize case back threads...oem is 30.9mm, some DW are 30.4mm. This is Ok as long as you have a set. MBK cases are very high quality but have laser engraving. In my experience Yuki cases are first class quality, same goes for my one Phong 1655 case. IG44 is hard to beat but IG44 is looong gone. I would spend the $$ on a good case if you want a watch to keep. Get one that is OEM spec so if you decide to put a genuine movement in it now or later. A Yuki etc. case with good dial and genuine movement will probably cost between $2200 and $2700 now because of jacked up prices. You could start out with an ETA 2846 or something and dial made for an ETA then go with a genuine movement later if you want something to wear while looking for a genuine movement etc. Be a good idea to stay away from 'big crown' projects with 1030 base rolex movements because of high $$ parts. The rolex 15xx parts situation is not too bad...yet. ETA is a LOT cheaper. Here is the info on one of my MBK 5513 projects a few years ago, 2011 or 2012 iirc (I have posted this before). It ended up costing about $1300. I still have it but it is apart. $300 or less for case (can not remember exactly) $102 for Yuki dial $25 for TC tube and crown $12 for ST hands $650 for 26 jewel rolex 1520 mvt $20 for mainspring etc $0 for c/o (did it myself) $85 for fake 358 hoods and put together '93150' bracelet, also have a folded oyster from 'Mary' that adds up to about the same $12 for GS crystal $68 for ST bezel kit (better fit than MBK bez with the GS crystal that was used) $25 misc...springbars, gaskets, case screws etc Had to use a 1575 date center wheel/cp and calendar spacer on the 1520 because the MBK 5513 case is made to 1680 spec, not 5513 spec. Extra cost is included with movement. The center sweep sec pivot is the same on 1520 and 1575, the 1575 second hand has a longer tube.

Yeah, remember she is just a reseller that buys them from a source back home. So, prices will vary based on what she can get it for and demand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bargain with her and if she doesn’t want to go lower and you are not happy with the price don’t do it. I guess the price is a hit or miss. I did meet her in person to purchase though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G928F met Tapatalk

I think her prices went up in January, the dial I bought for $199 is now $229,still a pretty decent price tho Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

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He had a way of working and it didn’t match our requirements so he has now agreed to do as we asked. All done and dusted.

I have several text templates that I can choose from to copy and paste, one of which is to actually email me, and we will continue communications via email, which makes things much more easier for me to manage. 50% of enquiries come through whilst the other 50% don't even bother.

All the time A, which over the years I have learnt which members to simply not give my valuable time, I'm not an ignorant person by any means, but when someone has no decent politeness and good manner when contacting me, I don't feel obliged to respond at all. It's simply not worth it, past experience of going above and beyond has always never been appreciated.

I believe that a lot of newbies hit and run as they’ve no intention of becoming part of the community. Once they’ve had the information on ‘who has the best sub’, they’re off without a thank you. Legend suffers these fools more than most as he is a gentleman with a vast amount of knowledge and is happy to share. But, come on guys, just say please, please.

Come back any day R!

That is an impressive collection, congrats. I see that your taste is rather eclectic as well, with watches from almost all the major brands, if not all, accounted for.

There is no domed sapphire crystal for explorer. You should get a plexi. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, Mr R, you expressed interest in one of my diver builds in your PM, and I gave you my number so that we could discuss it via whatsapp. But I quickly realized that the conversation was becoming more of a Q&A session, with no particular end in sight. So yes I guess that "to no avail" applies here. When you know what you want from me, I am always open to a conversation with you, but on specifically what you want, and not about general stuff in the hobby. That chat can happen later when we are better acquainted.

I'm thinking that the rafflesdials rivet would be period correct for a 6239 http://rafflesdials.com/signed-solid-stainless-steel-19mm-vintage-rivet-style-quality-watch-band-bracelet-strap-for-vintage-34mm-rolex-watch-case/ DW used to sell a 78350 with 571 ends for his old Daytonas- too bad we can't find those anymore- you'd think some one would be still making them over in China!

If you have a 114270 rep, you can always get the lugholes drilled, but I don't know where you'll find a domed sapphire crystal to fit. Maybe you could get a gilt Explorer dial from Yuki- hopefully it will fit in the 114270 case and the gold hands wouldn't be hard to find either. To build a Commando, you'll need a dial and it will have to be custom- maybe a water slide decal. BTW, case for a Commando is 34mm and the movement was the manual wind 1225, but getting the dial is really the challenge. And the difference between a 34 and 36 mm case isn't that noticeable. Hands on the Commando look like DJ hands to me- or at least a DJ set of hands would be close. I'd personally buy a vintage 1016 Explorer and then get the gilt dial and hands and go from there. What you have in mind is what we call a 'fantasy watch' with no real basis in the real world.

It’s important that all feedback, good and bad, is openly shared. The trouble with allowing back door modders imho is that the feedback is hidden until the wheel comes off. Something very similar is happening at RWI with a modder washing his hands of any responsibility as soon as a watch left him. That one went missing, but still a solid reminder to be very careful who you send your stuff to and to stick with the vetted, trusted dealers.

I believe I "grease" u pretty well but to no avail. [emoji4] To me, u come across as a person who is pretty set on yr ways. I understand that totally. Some of us (in this community) are rather immature in our ways, and as a 47 yr old, I understand that but I don't feel it's at all acceptable. As I read through some threads, and questions are answered, I don't see a simple "thank you" following it. Some of those questions were even asked in an obligatory manner too, like as if this forum is a "customer service" center for Replica Watches Inc. [emoji23] This is my 2 cents and I'm SUPER newbie. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

First of all, welcome back Been working on the forum and doing some changes over the last couple of hours and here are some of the most interesting changes that have been done; Classifieds section has been removed. We are back to our old sales forums. All new sale posts should be posted here. Only VIP/Platinum members can post new topics. Non-paying members have been downgraded. This is an automated process that has downgraded all members without an active product (VIP/Platinum membership) in their profile. Since it is automated, it means that there might be members that have been downgraded that should not have been downgraded. Please check this link if your account has been downgraded for an overview of your purchased upgrade: https://rwg.cc/clients/purchases/ If you have been given a free membership or feel that your account should not have been downgraded please PM me or e-mail me and I will add any free memberships correctly. Forum cleanup - Resource center, and supporters lounge has been moved into the RWG lounge area. Members interviews can now be found just below our General discussion-forum. Some forums with just a couple of posts/threads have been deleted. Theme updated. Should solve any minor problems with the layout and posting problems that a couple of members have reported. 2 new features "officially" launched: RWG Clubs and RWG Raffles. See more below. Code cleanup. Removed unused plugins Server optimization. New caching combo (Redis/Varnish) Several minor changes RWG Raffles Raffles are now an integrated part of the forum software, so we can now run raffles in a better way. Please have a look at this "test"-raffle; Although it is just a test, the winner will get a 1 year free VIP membership. Tickets are free and are limited to 1 per member, so go ahead and get your free ticket. And please let me know if you cannot see the raffle or have any problems with it. RWG Clubs RWG Clubs is a brand new feature, available for our VIP and platinum members. You can now create your very own club, inside RWG. It can be an open club for all Rolex-owners or a secret club for just you and your friends. Up to you. Here is how you can create your own club (Remember that you have to be at least a VIP members to create a club. You can upgrade your membership here: https://rwg.cc/store/category/1-account-upgrade/) 1. Click "Clubs" 2. Click "Start a club" 3. Choose the settings for your club 4. Manage your club Use the button to add features, members, change type, owners, etc. Go ahead and play around. On an ending note: It is a bit sad to see that RWG only has 93 VIP members and 19 platinum members. Please consider upgrading your account to support RWG and help me pay the cost of server rent and software. Also, a donation, no matter how small or large is highly appreciated: https://rwg.cc/clients/donations/2-admin-gratitude/ Hopefully these minor and major changes to the forum will make it a better place for all of us.

Test fit - complete Case - check Movement - check Movement ring - check Nasty Chipped Dial - check Stem - check Crown - check Hands - check

Take the cash. Then take your time, should you desire, to choose your own watch unless the daytona happens to be the specific one that you fancy. No reason to take a watch even if it is priced below market, if you do not have a liking for it.

Thanks you mean this one? Or this one?

Gen Spider Dial Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro