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hmm im sorry but 904L is a an ISO standard and the variation in quality is nearly non existent. it is the composition that makes this a 904 alloy. it is highly resistant to corrosion hence why it was made. I use it in highly acidic environments in oil production. it was designed to be used with very strong acids. The 904 on reps has been tested and does fall into the specs of being called a 904L alloy, but people seem to think that it is a super alloy and it doesn't scratch etc.. its not its actually nearly identical to 316L but has different corrosion properties. People get all bent saying "its brighter" etc and that's horseshit. its not. the whiteness or brightness in the metal has to do with how it is brushed and catches light. my recent noob Daytona is 316 and it looks exactly the same as all of my gen Rolexes. Id like to know where you got your information on 904L because its very incorrect. if what they are usisng is actually 904L then like I said it will have the same scratch and dent resistance as 316 but it will be highly corrosion resistant to acids from your skin and just about anything you will throw at it.. 904L on a watch is mearly a marketing thing as 316L is perfect for watch material and like will outlast you. The reason rolex changed was to solve the pitting issues they had in the caseback around the seal area you seen in a lot of old subs that were worn in salt water and not rinsed off, over time this will pit 316L but a very long time. most of Rolexes reason was because it was exotic, hard to work with and no one else was using it.

Any more of that kind of blabbing from you Verbal and I will not only ban you here, I will get you banned across all the fora, I will get your family and friends banned, anyone who does business with you will be banned and even those who owe you money will be banned

"He's supposed to be Turkish. Some say his father was German. Nobody ever believed he was real. Nobody ever knew him or saw anybody that ever worked directly for him. The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist.”

again another marketing ploy, however one which carries a lot of weight. Tegimentation of stainless steel while does not effect the corrosion properties does effect its resistance to damage of all forms. Tegimentation is a process of surface hardening alloys to become very very resistant to scratches and dents. In the case of SINN they take a 316L with a vickers hardness of about 250 and bring it up to 1200+ Vickers which is insanely hard! its a very impressive tech and for those who complain about scratches these are the watches for you lol

I think Sinn's 'submarine steel' is much more significant for its purpose than 904L

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AP & Rolex --> For me, they are good enough as replicas (put some 2xAR and they are amazing). The price is also right to afford multiple models

For me it's without doubt the 1675, early PCG model. Why? Come on, the old GMT Master is such an iconic, easy to spot, watch and yet there is no decent off the shelf model. And here lies why I would never buy a gun (apart from cost!) You see, if you truly love this watch and own the rep, you are on a seemingly never ending journey to make it 'just right' you look at it and no matter how good it is, you have put so much research into it that you know even when the tiniest detail is not right, it niggles away at you to make it better. If I bought a gen, I would not have that drive, that passion nor 'want' I fear I would become bored with it 😞 But I have an in-perfect 1675 that I built from each individual piece, sculpted the case, collected many parts from various sources battled to get them all to fit and look 'right' But alas...I have a long journey ahead of me. I LOVE IT!!

Haha good read and a small Omega fetish going on here? Got to love duty free wouldn’t buy anywhere else new. Sent from me Ass will fall out of them one day hopefully. Sent from me

I would not buy a gen Pam Iwc Hublot Cartier AP Some omegas ( speeds are the exceptions) The reps may not be perfect but close enough. The reason I didn’t include Rolex because the gen sport model can actually increase in value over time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been a while since I bought a rep but this new VSF was too good not to get

Well........ pull up a bollard and I’ll tell ye a story. Back in the days just before my time here at RWG, I hankered after a Seamaster Pro Chronograph. I looked and longed but didn’t want to drop £2750 on a new one. With it being my first luxury/expensive watch (over £500) I naturally wanted it new. My friend had a Seamaster Pro that got me into Omega along with James Bond. I travelled a lot for business back then, often traveling to Switzerland for work and this made the desire even greater - bloody airport shops! My mind was set, I’d save a little each month and buy one later that year. Luckily, I was working in Guernsey too, which whilst part of the UK is also duty free. On one such visit a deal was struck for a VERY good price and I became the proud owner of a new Seamaster Pro Chronograph - in blue of course. I wore it sparingly and with pride, but I felt guilty of the money I’d spent on it and nervous of damaging it. Then, within weeks I discovered RWG and high quality reps, hallelujah, problem solved. I’ll sell the gen and buy one rep of my Seamaster Pro Chrono......... Yeah right! I couldn’t bring myself to sell such a nice watch and investment (lol). Then, what if the reps were rubbish? I’d only have to buy another gen. Best pop the gen back on the winder and just use the rep, or another rep, or the black one, or the white one, or the franken built by Micky. Bugger, this has cost me more than the gen, but it’s been a whole lot more fun! This is the gen. Mr Black - with 2xAR My first rep Seamaster Pro Chrono, now residing in Italy. Mr White, gen relumed dial and bezel, 2xAR. Built by Micky Franken with ETA 7750 and gen relumed dial. Modded Blue with repainted hands, reversed date and 2xAR started with pumpkin insert. .... and now has a dark grey ceramic insert. So in hindsight, would I buy the gen? No, probably not. But hey I’m gonna keep it now anyway for special occasions lol

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there are also different variations of 904L where the better quality variation only uses about 38% Iron and the one that just qualifies to be 904L uses 53% Iron. Obviously the less iron used the better in my opinion. there is nothing magical about 904l stainless as it is still a non noble metal alloy which will pit and corrode given the right conditions. For example anything with iodine or bromide salts found in spa baths will pit 904L. I was reading that even human urine will attack stainless steel by pitting. You may ask who would put their timepiece in urine? One can be surprised what gets onto your wrist with the types of movements and environments one is exposed to. The best method to see what type of 904L stainless your watch case is made from is to have an xrf analysis done which most metal disposal merchants would have!

My 10 year old PO

Wearing this beauty today.

It is the (still) crispness of the case (& crown) edging that does not fit with the dial. At the very least, I would go at the entire edging of the case (& crown) with a fine file & then use a steel brush Dremel wheel to round/smooth things out. With your 'gentle' touch & usual vintaging technique, it ought to turn out just right.