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Well well well if it ain't another infamous franken Omega Bond 2531.80 SMP... This is another one that has been in the works for the longest time since my acquisition of my first ever rep SMP 40th anniversary edition back in 2009; The OG LOOK (not yet frankened, tried to bleach the bezel LOL) Bleached bezel and Gen Dial Bezel insert from my rep SMP Chrono diver and the rep chrono diver's bracelet Let say I made a big mistake and totally have regretted selling an almost perfect SMP franken from last year from the legend @exelonman, I guess seller's remorse also do exist especially among us watch collectors. @kernow is the lucky bugger(no pun intended) who stole my watch LOL mate you are the reason why this build exist! cheers! I hope to see the watch in tip top perfect shape. I don't mind the inaccuracy of the case, the bracelet, the thickness, the He Valve position (epoxied the MFer and the He Valve not even turning Fook me dead!), the beat up and faded bezel, the sunken lume pip (will prolly buy an aftermarket bezel from wholesaleoutlet990 and mod the pearl on it). I care about the total fun and excitement in building these things in which is very very challenging but satisfying at the same time. Gen 1503/825 bracelet is on its way upon writing this. shot outs to; @K4jun for the updated build guide @Specter1000 for this SMPc case that I am using now @Mr. Pap for this dial and also the comprehensive build guide @R2D4 also for the OG build guide @By-tor for the OG level inspirations! PS I am still contemplating (if the money allows me ATM) in continuing this build using an MKS/MKF case and perhaps a gen caseback, an anti magnetic cover, gen case tube and crown but of course only time can tell... Yeah too much banter right I know! Now on to the images and thanks for looking;

Dear Forum, this is probably the last update on the Smiths DeLuxePlorer! Since last time I fittet an acrylic crystal and a rivet bracelet. I anticipated all sorts of problems with the crystal, but it worked out on the first try and looks beautiful! I measured the case neck and bezel once I removed the saphire glass and found that the Sternkreuz XS 306.449 for Rolex TROPIC 21 might be a fit: So I ordered one from Gleave & Co in London (I can't wait to visit that store in person, from the pictures it looks very old world!) and it just slid in place, with some gentle force of course: It made a huge difference to the watch. Finally the dial is visible and not obscured by all sorts of reflections. And it matches the case perfectly, even extending at the same bevel angle that the bezel has. It's hard to photograph with a phone... But I sometimes get lost just looking at the way the crystal diffracts the light...I'm sure people in this forum know what I mean. On a Phoenix NATO (very british): And on the Riyi Rivet (which is great... wish the clasp was a bit nicer though but I tell myself that's what clasps were like in the 60s): I also put it back into the pressure tester and it's still water proof up to 9bar (as high as I dare to go). It's not been an easy or fast project but each time I check my wrist for the time it makes me happy and am reminded of the past year, strange as it was. Thanks to anyone who's given me advice and encouragement.

I give it a nine on a scale of ten. It gets a nine only because there are no tens. "A single domed acrylic crystal would be period correct right?" If the case neck is oem 16000/16200 DJ spec (29.5mm) and the ID of the bezel is also standard DJ spec (30.4mm), a crystal made for a rolex 1018 should work...number 25-21. A 1018 is basically a no date DJ. I do not have a GS part number for the 118 crystal but it should be on the 'net. Another good crystal brand is Sternkreuz and the 118 crystal p/n is 498/47 afaik...check to make sure. A 1016 bezel is 31.0mm ID because the crystal sidewall is thicker than a DJ. A 1016 crystal is number 25-22 and I would go with generic, not oem because they cost too much. For 1016 projects I use a GS 464-64C but they have the sharp top edge. You will have to shop around for a 1018 crystal because they are not as common as crystals for 1016 Explorers. If you end up going with a 1016 crystal and have the ID of the bezel cut to fit, try to find a crystal with the rounded top edge because most newer 25-22 crystals will have a sharp edge. You can round them off a little if needed because they are quite a bit thicker on top than a DJ crystal.