Leaderboard

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

movement for the 9401 is an eta 2776- circa mid 70s and on. bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: ETA 2776 (ranfft.de) Good luck finding one- you just need to check out all of the old Swiss watchmakers- Sandoz, Tugaris, Octo, Titus, Edox, Zodiac, Dodane, Omega, etc. etc...

That’s better….I will still take it for the first price….

vintage model (sub 300) is available in october, the regular samui is now back in stock (sub 300t)

Welcome aboard. My advice is to watch the sales threads here. Lots of people built some really nice Tudors, they were really hot items a few years back and I haven't seen many of them come up for sale since then. How bad is your itch? It might be an expensive scratch. Fr example my build uses a Phong case set ($800), gen 702 crown and tube ($350) gen Superdome Tropic 39 crystal ($300), gen dial and hands ($450) gen MkIII slate grey insert ($1,000) , gen ETA 7846 movement ($250) and Mary's 7836 band ($50). Total not including labor, fitting, finishing and shipping was about $3200 and that's for a "good" build, not "insanely good". Behold the Frosty Flake.

Nuq... That is one fine looking watch! It would fool me and I am one heck of a fool. Don't throw it at a bear next time you run out of arrows. "You could pick up a set of 580 end pieces from WSO and that would help a little." I'd go 'long wid dat. The WSO 580 end pieces are pretty good, especially for the $$ compared to genuine. I have used a few WSO sets with good results but learned the hard way that the tubes inside them are not soldered very good. On another note: Free worthless advice for anyone who has not had the 'pleasure' of fitting end pieces... To prevent trouble with the soldered tubes coming loose, fit the end piece to the case first without the bracelet. After any grinding/bending needed to make it fit on the 12 o'clock end...mark it and use it only on that end. Do the same for the one to be used at 6. You want the rising curve of the end piece as even with the curve of the top of the lug as possible. This is tedious and not easy because there is the danger of leaving marks on the outside edge of the end piece when bending it. I use homemade 'round jaw' pliers made from a set of needle nose pliers and cover the newly 'ground round' insides of the jaws with plastic electrician's tape. Most members will not need to go through all the hassle but this is how I have done it...successfully most of the time. Ha! The rounded top edge of the end piece needs to be just a little bit lower than the bezel so the rotating bezel (or fixed bezel) will not rub against the end piece when the end piece moves. Sometimes this takes a lot of 'ons and offs' to get it right. This is also where a lot of the trouble with the spring bars passing through the lugs and hoods comes about...the curved end of the end piece is too tight against the case and holding the end piece away from lining up with the holes in the lugs. The short answer to fitting end pieces is basically trial and error. Once in a while I had to slightly curve the spring bar but if you curve it very much it will not pass through the tubes. Put the spring bar crossways in a soup spoon and press another soup spoon down against the spring bar to make the curve. For tighter curves or shorter spring bars use smaller spoons.