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From the 'net, books, experience, and imagination. Many are paraphrased from their original wording. Feel free to add to it. "Watch repair is a lifetime learning experience with no simple quick rules that explain everything." Miyota was included in the 1991 Guinness Book of World Records for selling a hefty total of 1.7 billion movements, for just the quartz Calibre 2035 alone. First produced in 1982 and still in production with several billion units made 40 years later. Probably the most successful quartz watch movement in history, and decent quality. It's only as cheap as it is because they've made so many! Wrist watches that use Tritium to create glow in the dark features contain about 80 MBq of Tritium. Tritium's half-life is about a dozen years. Am I wrong, but is the 'Fat Lady' called Fat Lady because it’s thicker? Yes, it is 12mm instead of 11.8mm on the 16710. Identifying a genuine 7206 or 6636 Oyster rivet bracelet - GMT Forum VRF etc... "Apparently, sometime around 1954, Rolex reached the serial number 999,999 and restarted with 10,000 (possibly due to time constraints, and the ease of utilizing their existing tooling) which resulted in serial numbers ranging from 10,000 to 999,999, being assigned to their watches, twice... confusing lots of people in the process, wondering how their watch was made 25 years before it was first released." "End Links with a "B" are (sometimes) for watches, without holes all the way through their lugs. So if you wanted to put an old Jubilee, on a newer watch that doesn't have holes all the way through the lugs, then you better have ordered end links with 'B' at the end, and confirm that it has notches for the bracelet tool, or that bracelet is never coming off that watch again, without being damaged." "Rolex Swiss rivet 7206 bracelet was used throughout the 1950s (and possibly earlier) and was discontinued with the introduction of the 9315 bracelet (latest known clasp date stamp for the 7206 is 1969.) These early bracelets did not have the 7206 stamped on the last link until around 1963. Prior to 1963, the 7206 bracelet and the 6636 stretch (or expansion) rivet link Oyster bracelets did not have bracelet stampings to identify them. The bracelets, if correct, should contain 12 links, which is depicted in the factory Rolex parts catalog photo below. (The 7206 and 6636 are basically the same bracelet except the links on the 6636 have internal springs that allow they to stretch or expand.)" ETA vs. Sellita ETA vs. Sellita (professionalwatches.com) TURF was on the internet from 1998 to 2001. Description: Rolex Stainless Steel USA Jubilee Bracelet for 20mm Lug Width Models... Manufactured: most likely in the 1960-70s with no date stamp or way to reference(?) Band Width: Compatible with vintage and modern Rolex models with 20mm lug width Number of links: 21 links total (11 on the longer/crown side and 10 on the shorter side) End links: Missing Reference 555 (straight design) Compatibility: Please note that the following compatibility list includes general production years for each model. The 555 end links may have been used for only a portion of these years, but this is what I have: Datejust 1601 (late 1950s-1970s) and 1603 (1960s-1970s) Air-King 5500 (1957-1989), 14000 (1989-2000), and 14010 (1989-2000) Oyster Perpetual 1002, 1005, 1007, 1024 (all 1960s-1970s), 1500, and 1501 (both 1960s-1970s) Explorer 1016 (1963-1989) and 5500 (1966-1989) Submariner 5512 (1959-1978) and early versions of 5513 (1962-1989) GMT-Master 1675 (1959-1980) 3-14-2022...A watchmaker in Dallas, TX heard that there are approximately 20-30 independents left (in the USA) with ROLEX parts accounts, he is one of them. (VRF) Red Subs came with different date wheel colors/surfaces - as a guess of the periods: "off-white" versions in 1969 and probably 1970, matte (including very slightly brushed, only visible under the loupe) silver versions in about 1970 to 1973, strikingly brushed silver versions from 1973 onwards. Grading Used Vintage Watches: "Untouched" = Like sold by Rolex, unpolished; a shorten bracelet or a replaced strap are acceptable. In regard to the age of a watch, a reasonable low-key service (cleaning, oiling, replacing gaskets) might be acceptable as well - however, keep in mind that the case back might show watchmaker marks and the movement patina be gone "Fully Original" = Configuration/parts correct for the model and year (like it might have got sold by Rolex), all parts genuine and unaltered (no relume, no case recut); parts might have got replaced by the same or an alternative but also correct version; might be polished. You might also accept service parts as original (in the meaning of mounted by Rolex) if they're documented in Rolex service papers. "Authentic" or "Genuine" = Any model-conform configuration (including service parts, and I'd also accept a wrong but genuine bracelet), all parts genuine; might be polished/relumed/recut. Traser and Luminox are not the same company. Traser is the sole manufacturer of trigalight tritium tubes that are used by Luminox and a few other watch brands. In regards of the similarity of models, this has a reason that goes back to the late 80s. Traser was supplied the US army with watches, Traser was approached by the gentlemen who founded Luminox to supply them with watches with a different label, so back then Traser did not only supply the tritium tubes, but actually manufactured complete watches as an OEM supplier for Luminox, after this model both companies went separate routes, but Traser continued to supply Luminox with trigalights. Anonymous...4-4-11...I took my father's Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust (from late 60s) for Restoration at Toronto Rolex Centre. They have given me an estimate of approx. $2200 for a complete restoration (includes servicing, new dial & hands and a new bracelet). The 25/26 jewel 1520 used in the 5513 Sub, Air King etc is exactly the same as the 17 jewel model except for jewels in the reverser pivots and jewels in the movement plate for the intermediate wheel of the autowind assembly. The same balance assembly with flat hairspring is used in both. The chronometer grade 1570 is a bit different besides the jewel count as it has a different pallet fork, escape wheel and balance assembly with Breguet type hairspring. Jewels can be installed in place of bushings in the reverser pivots of 17 jewel models but they will not accept the same jewels as used in the 25/26 jewel movements but must use special order jewels with a larger OD. If a watch is worn for a long time with worn reverser bushings, the reversers will run partly out of mesh and wear the red anodized finish and wheel teeth. The intermediate wheel can also run partly out of mesh if the intermediate wheel bushings wear and this will sometimes result in worn or broken teeth on the intermediate wheel. You can tell when the bushings on the intermediate wheel are going south by looking closely at the reversers for swirl marks caused by the intermediate wheel running out of true. Intermediate wheel bushings can also be replaced with jewels so it is a good idea to replace them all at once. The bushings tend to wear out on the autowind reverser pivots if they run dry or get dirty and it is better to replace worn bushings with jewels, not new bushings. Intermediate wheel bushings will sometimes show a lot of wear if the mainspring bridle does not slip freely against the mainspring barrel wall when fully wound. When the MS grease dries out, the MS bridle (friction slip clutch) will not slip easily against the barrel wall under full wind and all the winding rotor power ends up at the intermediate wheel and can break teeth off and/or elongate the hole in the bushings, especially if worn during conditions where vigorous activities cause high rotor inertia. This sometimes causes balance "knock" as well as wear or damage on various autowinding parts. (The intermediate wheel transfers power from the autowind assembly to the mainspring and has a relatively heavy load on it.) Another problem with all 1530 base movements (1570 etc) is that the mainspring barrel runs in the bare plate on the dial side...no bushing or jewel, (I guess they were trying to save 30 cents) The lowly Eta 2824 even has a jewel at this location and Rolex finally put a bushing at this location on the 3035 when it came out because they had to...the faster beat movement makes more MS barrel revolutions per day. If the dial side MS arbor hole on any 1530 base movement runs dry long enough it will wear the hole in the plate out of round causing the MS barrel to drag on the plate. This gives the same symptoms as a dirty movement or weak MS...low running reserve etc. It looks like the plate is probably too thin to install a jewel at this location if the hole wears out but a bushing might work if you can locate the exact center of the original hole. An elongated hole can be closed up a bit with a punch but this is not good practice. Auto weight axles wear out and usually the first sign is when you can hear the rotor rattling when you shake the watch up and down a couple inches with the dial pointing up or down. They all rattle a little bit but a loose axle knocks louder so listen to one known to have a good axle and gib (rotor clip) first for comparison. Another check for worn rotor axles and/or broken rotor axle jewels is to remove the caseback and examinine the movement plate for signs of the winding rotor rubbing the plate. They all probably have the rotor hit the top plate now and then but when the axle gets worn out or a jewel breaks, the wear will be easy to spot. The fix is a new rotor axle and gib along with one or both jewels if needed. I will not get into proper rotor axle removal but if some hack simply drives it out of the weight without cutting the rivet down they can damage the hole in the weight and the new axle will not be a proper fit. Rotor bridges bear the movement model number on all 15 series movements and they are all interchangeable. It's entirely possible to see a 1530 with a 1570 rotor bridge, or a 1520 with a 1555 rotor bridge, or any other On cal. 1575 date movements, a 1570 rotor bridge is correct. The "D" prefix in serial numbers of 15 series movements indicates that the movement was equipped with a date mechanism (the 1575 is the "date" version of the 1570). "President" day/date models (1555, 1556, etc.), have movements with serial numbers that begin with "DD," which means day/date. Chronometer movements intended for standard Oyster Perpetuals, etc., which did not have dates have serial numbers with no letter prefixes. Introduction dates: 1530...1957 1565...1959 1565 GMT...1962 1520...1963 1580 (Milgauss)...1963 1525...1965 1560...1965 1570...1965 1575/1575 GMT...1965 1971 USA Rolex list prices... 1655 - US$515 1675 - US$525 1019 - US$425 5513 - US$445 5512 - US$525 1665 - US$625 6263 - US$580 6694 - US$275 1016 - US$425 1680 - US$565 COSC certification is less than US$4.00 (four dollars) per movement tested... (The World of Watches, Ebner Publishing International, New York, 2005,p.29). COSC is a non-profit organization. I was surprised to read this as COSC certification involves a long process (very extensively described by Trueb in his book), and usually adds around $200-$300 to the cost of a watch. (Example...Among 750T Pros, the DP & CC cost $1349, the COSC $1590). Some watches, called chronometers (not to be confused with chronographs) contain movements that have passed testing by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse de Chronomètres (COSC), an agency of the Swiss government. Rolex sends 600,000+ through each year, Omega about 100,000+, TAG Heuer about 20,000+, and the other manufacturers only a couple thousand or fewer, each. So, if you think that COSC certification and the chronometer designation is mainly a marketing device used by some mid-priced high-volume manufacturers, you won't be far wrong. Even more cynically, I think that "chronometer" is basically a Rolex thing, and only those manufacturers who need to sell their watches head-to-head with Rolex care about it, and only on particular models. For example, Breitling certifies their all-gold models, which might compete with a gold Rolex Yachtmaster, but not their steel watches. The top-tier manufacturers, such as Audemars Piguet, IWC, Jaeger-Le Coultre, Lange, and Patek Philippe pay almost no attention to the COSC at all. February 2011...There's a general feeling on the various watch forums that Rolex will maintain a full parts inventory for their watches for a 30 year time period. To date Rolex has pulled 312 parts accts in the CONUS. BOLO Fake Tudor subs...serial number 737738, inner case back stamped IV 68. Dial, Case, Insert, and hands not genuine. 16610 13mm thick...16600 14.65mm thick, 16610 Weight 135G 16600 147g. Rest of case dimension roughly the same except SD dial is slightly smaller than sub and SD is bezel is 1mm wider. 16610 13mm thick...16600 14.65mm thick, 16610 Weight 135G 16600 147g. Rest of case dimension roughly the same except SD dial is slightly smaller than sub and SD is bezel is 1mm wider. Weight 14060 - 127 grams 16610 - 135 grams 16613 - 148 grams 16618 - 175 grams 1680 - 117 grams Requirements for minimum thicknesses for watch cases in the various materials. All require not less than 10 karat fineness: Gold filled - thickness throughout of not less than three one-thousandths of an inch. This equates to not less than 76 micron in thickness, (approximately the thickness of a sheet of photocopy paper). Rolled gold plate - thickness throughout of not less than one and one-half one thousandths of an inch. This equates to not less than 38 micron in thickness. Gold electroplate - 20 micron is considered heavy for modern electroplating, and most plating is 10 or 5 micron...or less. V72 hand sizes Hour 1.60 min 1.09 center chrono 0.25 sub-second 0.23 sub-minutes 0.25 sub-hours 0.28 V7734/6 Hour 1.45 min 0.95 center chrono 0.30 sub-second 0.20 sub-minutes 0.30 sub-hours 0.21 T = thickness SH = stem height ETA 2824-2, T: 4.60 mm, SH: 1.80 mm (Hands 90/150/25) ETA 2892A2, T: 3.60 mm, SH: 1.50 mm ETA 2801-2, T: 3.35 mm, SH: 1.80 mm ETA 2804-2, T: 3.35 mm, SH: 1.80 mm ETA 2821-1, T: 4.60 mm, SH: 1.80 mm ETA 2836-2, T: 5.05 mm, SH: 2.25 mm ETA 2842, T: 5.05 mm, SH: 2.25 mm ETA 2846, T: 5.05 mm, SH: 2.25 mm ETA 2850, T: 4.05 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2851, T: 4.05 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2852, T: 4.05 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2853, T: 4.05 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2858, T: 4.05 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2859, T: 4.05 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2870, T: 5.30 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2871, T: 5.30 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2872, T: 5.30 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2873, T: 5.30 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2878, T: 5.30 mm, SH: 2.50 mm ETA 2879, T: 5.30 mm, SH: 2.50 mm Rolex watches from 70's used 316L stainless... old Rolex from 60's or before used 304L stainless 316L (similar to 304L) but has 2-3% more molybdenum added, which provides more corrosion resistance than 304L then in mid 1980 switch to 904L, which contains more nickel and is more expensive. 1016 springbar p/n...23-9293 1680 springbar p/n...23-9291 5512/13 Bezel retaining ring pn 319-5512 Crystal retaining ring part numbers... 1675 = 319-1675 5513 = 319-5513 I could not see into the future. Here is Proof : From October 2012... Rolex will no longer allow ADs or independents to install bezels or bracelets. Any bracelet purchase/replacement, dial replacement and/or bezel replacements are to be done by an official RSC repair depot only. AD's are instructed to send the watches to RSC at the AD's expense for the work. Inserts, crystals, hands are still ok to be installed at the AD. AD's and independents are now supposed to keep records of the serial #'s for the watches that the hands are replaced on. Hands are order only...none for stock. Hands are to be ordered only after supplying the case reference number and serial number of the watch they are to be installed on. This info comes from two different sources. An AD and an independent. The independent was able to get hands for a 1680 but the 1680 is now on file with RSC as having the hands replaced. To get a spare bezel, you would have to take the 1680 to an AD who would send it to RSC for bezel replacement. The quote for bezel insert replacement came in at $150. It is much easier to get parts from Rolex AD's and independents everywhere except the USA. Some places are harder than others...easiest are UK, Germany, and Australia. It is common to see parts from sellers located in these countries on eBay etc. They are able to turn a high profit on harder to find items. Some items are not that much more expensive than if you bought them in the AD/rwc repair network although in the network you lose the originals. Take a 1680 service dial...you can sell a service dial on the internet for around $500. Rolex charges $400 in the US and keeps the original (that may be worth more than the replacement). Hands, typically will run around $150 on eBay etc and Rolex charges around $100 and keeps the originals. Inserts typically cost $100 exchange on average from an AD. New bracelets on the black market run around $1000-1200 and from an AD around $900-1000 exchange for the older 93150 for example. Harder to find parts will have a significantly larger markup such as LV inserts, dials, hands, etc. as these are now exchange only. Rolex USA changed things near the beginning of the year that made it even harder. I doubt any of this is still valid in 2023. Ha! From 2013... There are quite a few 1575 around for sale but just about all sooner or later will need c/o at least. I figure a fair price for a complete used replacement movement to be $700 to $1000 but many will have worn out winding rotor axles, reversers etc and need more than just c/o so when your 1530/70 etc needs c/o and parts are n/a...you either have to buy another movement for a replacement or for parts to repair your existing movement. When I was working at a watch shop, the owner would c/o a 1570/75 powered watch for $150 plus parts if it did not need anything other than gaskets and a mainspring...new rotor axle, balance staff etc was extra. He was an absolute pro and fast so he could turn them out in a hurry. He also had an old L&R Automatic Ultrasonic cleaning machine that cleaned fully disassembled movements in a few minutes. I have one too but do not use it much because the fumes from the cleaning/rinse fluids will run you out of the shop. I would figure a fair price to c/o a 1570/75 out of the case (not in a watch) to be $125 to $150 so keep this in mind if you need one cleaned and oiled. Be careful of characters who brag about how good they are and ask $400 or $500 for a simple c/o. I am sure there are some who are good enough to rate these prices but since the 1570/75 is a simple, basic movement it should not be too much $$...except for parts and extra work. For example, to c/o the 1570/75 is about the same amount of work as an old Bulova 11BLACD and most repair shops will c/o them for $75 to $100. (I have about a dozen Bulovas with the 11BLAC/D, the D = date, and am familiar with them, mostly in old 1960s/1970s Bulova Oceanographers) Basic service is currently $800 in the United States, (or at least at RSC in New York as of September 19 2012). From TRF iirc...Took my two 36mm Oyster Datejust to the Rolex Store on 5th Ave in New York on September 19th, and it was $800 for basic movement service plus add on costs for all parts. Each watch was just a bit under $1800 total. Total damage for both is $3,718.09. From 2013 iirc...It's not only "No Parts For You!" for higher grade swiss stuff...even the 'gets no respect' TAG/Heuer brand has been this way for years. I have gone a few rounds with them. Now, all the swiss 'high brow' brands refuse to sell parts. Looks like it is spreading industry wide...I tried to get a stem for a current production Seiko with a 6G28A quartz movement and it was n/a from the three USA supply houses I tried. No complete movement available either. A friend finally got a stem for me...in Australia! Citizen is the same way...not many parts and movements available for Eco-Drives. My guess is Eta may soon cut most parts off for mechanical watch movement and go to selling complete movements. How about an Eta 2824-2 for only $550 (with an exchange)? They are already around $220, up from $65 a few years ago. I have been around watch repair shops for a long time and they are just about all gone now because even after making it through the quartz boom, they are finally giving it up because of no parts. One shop was open for 50+ years (mentioned above) and when the owner retired, he said anyone could have the shop free, machine tools, parts and all, just pay the rent and utilities. No one wanted the hassle. In the 10 or 12 years I was hanging around...we got our Rolex parts account closed three times. Once for not buying enough to warrant an account. Again for buying too much compared to past account activity, and we were accused of 'selling parts out the back door". Catch 22. I still have 95% of the parts in July 2023. They opened it again a year later with no request from us and closed it again for no reason at all. What's next...put you in jail for having an aftermarket part on your Rolex because they refuse to sell parts? I had a 1970's DJ that was rotted out all the way through the case under the bezel. Also had a few 16000 etc cases that were rotted out. Had a 6694 that was so bad it fogged up in a light rain. Have a new! improved! 904L! 16220 case that has corrosion around the case where the case back gasket seats. Is stainless steel really stainless? More or less. Corrosion resistant? Sorta. Rot out proof? No. They all rot out sooner or later. There is a LOT of junk out there and watch shows, eBay etc are dumping grounds for ratty cases that look good on the outside. Be suspicious at watch shows, trade shows etc if the caseback is screwed down real tight on an empty case so you can not examine it. I bought a 1603 from a seller in HK and it looked 90% good on the outside but was rotted out inside around the gasket area...it is now residing in my trophy case of lost causes. Got a 16220 that was the same way on eBay but got a refund. I've seen a whole lot of 16000 type cases that were rotted out. Seen a lot of rotted out submariners, some of them not that old. True story: I bought a 'same as nib' Rolex AK 14010M January 14, 2008 for $1000, serial number K93xxxx. Why $1000? That seems pretty low. Because the guy that got it for a 20 year work award could not grasp the concept of a screwdown crown or automatic winding watch, so he pitched it in a drawer and forgot about it. Until I came along. I still have it. Somewhere. Before it all fizzled out, I bought 13 of them. My 'contact' retired and that was the end of that. Miscellaneous: $226 MIL...plus 11 Mexican gold bullion coins, many pieces of expensive jewelry, seven luxury cars and a war chest of automatic guns... https://www.celebritynetworth.com/articles/entertainment-articles/story-behind-largest-drug-cash-seizure-time-stumbling-226-million-cash/ Hypochondria is the only disease I do not have. Yet. Airbnb has no real estate. Uber has no cars. When the $80k Luxo Lexus you bought last year goes up for auction for nonpayment and sells for $1k, the bank will sue you to pay the $79K. If you don't believe it, call your bank and find out. The problem with buying gold and silver is that if you do not physically possess it, so you do not really own it. There appears to be several times more "on paper" gold and silver in existence than actual physical gold and silver.. Over 90% of the financial values of the market are simply fraudulent transactions of non-existent monies, and guess who gets stuck holding the bag? German Silver (nickel silver) like used in vintage watch cases is an alloy of 60 percent copper, 20 percent nickel, and 20 percent zinc. Crypto... "An imaginary 'coin' held by an account number starting with 1,3 or bc1, containing 27 to 34 alphanumeric Latin characters and digits that can be stolen or simply disappear for no known reason with no recourse." "Country music today doesn't suck, it just doesnt exist. What they call country music now is just pop music with an accent" Luthien It's not what you know, but who you know and what you can prove. What Watch Did James Bond Really Wear? Dr. No……………………………………...........Rolex Submariner..1 From Russia With Love ………………...Rolex Submariner..2 Goldfinger ……………………………….......Rolex Submariner..3 You Only Live Twice ……………………..Rolex Submariner..4 Thunderball ………………………………....Rolex Submariner..5 Brietling... 1 On Her Majesty's Secret Service …Rolex Submariner..6 Rolex Chronograph...1 Diamonds Are Forever …………………No watch seen The Man With the Golden Gun ……Rolex Submariner..8 Live & Let Die ……………………………....Rolex Submariner..9 Pulsar ... 1 The Spy Who Loved Me ………………Seiko ..1 For Your Eyes Only ………………………Seiko..2 Octopussy …………………………………...Seiko..3 A View to a Kill …………………………….Seiko..4 The Living Daylights …………………....Rolex Submariner..10 Licence to Kill ……………………………...Rolex Submariner..11 Goldeneye …………………………………...Omega Seamaster Professional..1 Tomorrow Never Dies …………………Omega Seamaster Professional..2 The World is Not Enough …………….Omega Seamaster Professional..3 Die Another Day ………………………….Omega Seamaster Professional..4 Casino Royale………………………………Omega Planet Ocean..1 Omega Seamaster Professional..4 Quantum of Solace………………………Omega Planet Ocean..2 Eleven Rolex, seven Omega, four Seiko, one Brietling, and one Pulsar. Mountain men who attended 'The Rocky Mountain Annual Rendezvous' held between 1825 and 1840 lived to an average of 68 years compared to city dwellers who lived only 53 years. How? By avoiding doctors...and hostile Indians. Demagogue: “One who preaches doctrines he knows to be untrue to men he knows to be idiots.” H. L. Mencken Typos are free.

Hello, I'm Steve, I'm back, I've done a lot of GEN and replica Rolex models comparisons, it's time to check Rolex's little brother Tudor, LOL！ ZF recently just released a new Black Bay GMT M79470, so let's take a look and see what ZF has done with this new product, by the way, you can also get a closer look at the authentic Tudor workmanship details, after all, it is Rolex's little brother, I think it should not be bad. Enough crap now, and if I don't start again you'll think I'm an old lady, haha. Front view of the dial In terms of color, there is no second pure black in the world, so there is no need to worry about color difference on the black dial. As we can see, there is a small crack on 6 marker in the gen since it has been scratched when ZF replicas the model for the marker. But this is enough to see that the ZF factory is doing a true 1 to 1 replica, even a small accessory need to be disassembled to replicate, so as to do the closest. Bezel side view Gen bezel is made of frosted steel, the surface frosting treatment of ZF bezel is still very good, very delicate, the edge of the transition to the side of the rounded smooth processing is also very good. Crystal side view The chamfered level of the crystal side and the GEN are also very similar, and the height remains the same. Bezel numeral view The shape of the ZF inked numerals is well controlled and consistent with the GEN, but the slightest shortcoming is that some of the numerals are a little off the outer edge, but the good thing is that it is hard to notice with the naked eye. In addition, because the GEN is worn and used, the inked numbers on the bezel are stained with oil and dust, so it looks shinier and the surface of the numbers look untidy, while the ZF looks more comfortable. Side view of the markers The ZF maker is made of Super-Luminova luminescent coating to make a whole stick marker, and there is no difference between the shape and size of the GEN scale. In addition, you can see that the triangular scale and the bar scale of GEN have a white edge at the bottom edge, which is not perfectly recovered by ZF factory after using GEN scale. Lume filled view The lume fill of the GEN hands is very granular, while the ZF lume fill is lacking and is slightly raised in places. The GEN markings are where the grain filling on the surface has been scratched out. It is very easy to damage such delicate accessories by using authentic 1 :1 replicas. You can zoom in on the second photo to see that the surface of the ZF circular marker has the same texture as the gen. It is very crystalline and View of the oil-printed font on the dial The font shape of ZF dial is also very good, and the color of the yellow font is almost colorless compared to GEN. Hands Central axle view Due to the different construction of the movement, the center pin of the ZF hand is slightly higher than gen.and the hand stack is incorrect (ICHS) But on the other hand the black sandblasting is very neatly finished. the sandblasted parts of the gen are already leaking fluid. I don't think it was originally intended to be this condition. It should have been damaged in the process of previous replication. After all, it's a $4,500 Swiss watch, so there's no way such poor detailing could have occurred. Date wheel veiw The shape of the date wheel is very well made by ZF, with the same beveled slope as the gen. And the date wheel is also Full-bodied and three-dimensional. However, the seconds marker at 3 o'clock is a little short. In addition, you can obviously see that the ZF calendar digital position is a little down, this is just a little problem in the assembly of this calendar wheel we used for the shooting caused by, I also check our recent QC photos, to confirm that this is just an example, you do not need to care, as long as the QC check clearly on the line. Side view of the crown ZF has done a great job on the edges of the crown teeth, which are as rounded as the gen. And the engraving of classic Tudor plum logo is also stereoscopic clarity. Side view of the case There is nothing wrong with the ZF case shape either. And the curvature of the case and the lugs are also the same as the gen. Back case view The back case teeth are also very well finished by ZF. However, the length of the bevel on the side of the back case is slightly longer compared to the gen. The good thing is that the distance to the naked eye is actually quite noticeable. Engraved view of the case back and lugs The engraving on the case back is very close to the gen in terms of depth and coordination. The numbered engravings on the lugs are particularly good, as they are difficult to distinguish even when magnified to macro. Strap detail view The overall fit of the ZF strap is excellent, with relatively small gaps. The clasp polishing is also very well finished. The adjustment length is up to 8 mm and the feel of the adjustment is smooth, just like the gen quick-adjustment mechanism. Factory engraving on the inside claims to use the same stamping process as the gen. There are differences in the actual carving marks, but in terms of depth and shape, they are very well done. Lume view The lume color of ZF is the same as the gen and there is no difference. Movement view The movement of gen is Tudor's own MT5652, and the ZF applies the Asia 2836 movement. ZF one does not have a brass plate or engraving to imitate a gen movement. The balance wheel is also in the opposite position to that of the gen. But for models with a solid case back, this doesn't matter too much. After all, no one would be bored enough to open the back of your watch. What do you think about it? Comparative view of data Note: All watches are measured in a clamped state, and there may be errors due to the slight deviation of the position of the caliper. In addition, GEN intercepts the strap, and the factory has a steel strap protective film that has not been torn off. The ZF is identical to the gen, except for the weight, which is slightly lighter than gen. Well, that's it for today's post. On the whole, this new Tudor from ZF is a very well made and high quality replica watch. There are still a few things that are not perfect, but we can't ask for too much more than that. After all, this model is only made in the ZF factory at the moment. We don't have to be too hard on ourselves. When there is no choice, it is actually the best choice. On a side note, the market for this non-popular model is relatively small in itself. Regardless of how well it's actually being done, it is already giving us a few more options that a large factory is doing it. At least we won't be confined to a few popular models when it comes to choose replica watches. Finally, thanks to the guys for watching. Please correct me if there are any mistakes. If there is anything else that I have overlooked, please feel free to ask and I will add as much as I can to it. Illustration: Some photos deviate from the real object due to the light source. For details, please refer to the content. The size of the comparison picture is relatively large, you can download it and enlarge it for comparison. There is no perfect replica, only the one you prefer. Thanks. Steve.

Hello everyone, it's Steve and I'm back About Rolex model comparison, we have done a lot of issues, during the period I also occasionally find time to do some other brands of comparison, but Steve is a very stubborn person, if not all the Rolex series to do a comparison, I will feel imperfect, ha ha, although this task is very difficult, but I will grasp the footsteps of continuous efforts, regardless of the models made by the popular models or the low attention. I think as long as there are friends interested in this, it can provide some reference for their choice, that is enough! So this time we bring you a comparison of the Explorer I generation. Let's cut the crap and get to the bottom of it. Front Dial View Natual Light View Under Light View The color of the dial is not much to say, it is still Steve's favorite black dial, black is good, mysterious and cool but also thin, the main thing is no color difference, ha ha. in addition, The factory claims that the GM and BP are actually from the same factory, except that the GM is made of 904 steel and the VR3230 movement, while the BP is made of 316 steel and the A3230 movement, otherwise they are the same. In fact, this is not the case, because during the comparison, I found that only some of the parts are common, but some of the details are different, probably due to the assembly, so let's compare GM and BP as two factory products. Bezel Side View From the top view alone, all the factory bezels are fine, but the differences can be seen from the side view, the side height of BP is obviously narrow, GM, EW and Gen remain the same, the slight flaw is that the gap between the bezel and the case is a bit large, Gen is almost no gap at all. Crystal Side View All factory crystals have the same edge chamfering as Gen, there is no significant difference between them, mainly in the thickness of the mirror, from the picture you can see that the BP crystal is too thick, resulting in its raised too high, and after a careful comparison of the physical found that EW is closest to Gen, GM is slightly thicker, but the impact is not significant. Markers Side View Regarding the stick, GM and BP should use the same parts, because no difference can be found in shape or details. The triangle and bar stick of GM（BP）are better, with edge chamfering , while EW is not, and the sharp corners are too sharp. But in the edge of the Arabic numerals, EW does a better job. In addition, you can look at the digital stick 3 (marked in the figure), the corner of the Gen edge is curved, not sharp. In this small detail, EW noticed and synchronized it, while GM and BP ignored it. Luminous Filled View GM is still in its usual style, the surface of the stick is smooth, as is the BP, while the EW is well filled and very grainy. The filling on the hands is not superior or inferior, we can focus on the end of the minute hand, where EW is still very commendable, because its end is sharp-angled shape, the same as the Gen, while GM and BP are flat (commonly known as scissor needles) Oil Font View Overall, the level of Oil font in the three factories is not very different, and there are no obvious mistakes, there is not much to say, anyway, in my opinion, under the naked eye are the same. Middle Axis View The Middle Axis of GM and BP is raised higher, there is almost no hollow part, so EW is better in comparison. As for the factories have burn marks on Middle Axis , we don't have to care too much Rehaut Side View The clarity of EW's Rehaut is a little better, and its backing is more densely engraved. There is not much difference between GM and BP. Their serial numbers begin with GC6, both should be the same Rehaut parts. Crown side view There is no problem with the shape of the crown, and the tips of the teeth are rounded and smooth, but the actual touch will be a little sharp, including the Gen is also the same. Case side view There is no significant difference in the shape of the case, but after careful comparison I found that all the factory‘s lugs are slightly on the fat side, but this difference is very subtle and within acceptable limits. Caseback view There is nothing to say about the Caseback, if I have to pick out some flaws, it is factorys edge of the teeth are a little sharp, EW is relatively better, but the actual touch does not feel different. In our Chinese way, that is "no matter the difference, the problem is not big." Endlink side view Regarding the curvature of the Endlink, we have done so many issues of Rolex model comparison, in fact, we also found that this has a certain relationship with the assembly, Gen will be different from model to model, even the same model will be different. So we don't need to be too concerned about that, if we look at it according to what we think is the standard, GM is a little better, BP and EW are a little too flat. Strap Details View There is nothing more to say about the strap, so check it out for yourselves. Laser Marker and Luminous View As you can see from the comparison pictures， the EW laser mark is still very clear, the GM and BP are slightly more blurred, and this is confirmed by looking at the real thing. The Luminous is not much of a differentiator, as long as there is no problem with the tint, I don't think the brightness is a factor of comparison. Movement view GM uses the VR3230 movement, BP uses the A3230 movement (based on the 2824 movement), and EW also uses the A3230 movement based on the 2824 movement, which is from Hangzhou. Data comparison chart Note: All watches are measured in a clamped state, and there may be errors due to the slight deviation of the position of the caliper. In addition, GEN intercepts the strap, and the factory has a steel strap protective film that has not been torn off. Well, today's post is here, thank you guys for watching. If there are any mistakes, please correct me. If there is anything else I overlooked, you can put it up, and I will try my best to complete it. Welcome to comment and exchange! I will continue to bring you more detailed comparisons between replica watches and GEN’s. And it is also for you to choose the favorite models conveniently. Illustration: Some photos deviate from the real object due to the light source. For details, please refer to the content. The size of the comparison picture is relatively large, you can download it and enlarge it for comparison. There is no perfect replica, only the one you prefer. Website: https://www.theonewatches.ws WhatsApp: + 86-17081934955 Wechat: The5711