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ssurfer, I had not seen your post, thanks for the link. Wow, your post is what mine aspired to be (nice work)!

Just a quick update. I'm really loving LumiNova, if SuperLumiNova is better, I'll be in heaven. I just couldn't resist trying LumiNova on my BCE Dial. I had already added NoctiLuminova to each marker and was quite pleased with the results, it's deifintely better than the Rep lume, but I decided to strip it off of one marker (actually one side of one marker) and apply LumiNova to see if there was any difference. TIP: Don't use an x-acto knife to scrape off old lume, it can scratch the marker (guess how I know). Use something softer than the base metal or you might be sorry. Which marker do you think I updated (it's pretty obvious). Darn, now I'm going to have to re-lume the whole thing!:

I saw someone wearing a Panerai today and now I want one. I hope you can help me identify what it was, I don't know much about Panerai. DESCRIPTION: It had a White dial, Polished Stainless steel case, luminescent hands, solid case back with marking saying Firenze 1860, Seconds at 9:00 (I can't remember much else). I've done a bit of searching and I think it may have been a 113 (but I thought it had a subdials at 6 and 3... yea my memory sucks) or a 188 (although I don't remember it having black markings around the outside of the dial). Is there anything like a 113 with more than one subdial? I hope you can help me identify it. Thanks for your help. EDIT>> I think I found it, it appears to be a PAM 51 (for some reason I thought it was larger than 40mm and had additional sub-dials). It looks like KING carries them. Pam 51

Some additional clarification: Phosphorescent pigments are commonly used to illuminate the markers and hands of watches so that they glow in the dark. I and perhaps others are interested in re-luming watches because the Lume that comes standard on most Reps isn't very good. I've been looking for a Phosphorescent pigment that's good, but inexpensive (I want the most bang for my buck). I decided to do the comparison, so you don't have to. It can be expensive and time-consuming buying and trying the different materials, and it would suck if everyone had to do that. Just to show an approximate comparison of costs: Super-LumiNova = $40/gram (+ $40 shipping/handling to the USA, price includes Binder,Thinner, mixing bowl) NoctiLumina = $7/gram (+ shipping) LumiNova = $1/gram (the catch is that there is a 2lb min buy) Super-LumiNova may be worth the money (I intend to find out for myself), but, for the price, I think LumiNova is an excellent product.

I have been trying to become more educated in Phosphorescent pigments and wanted to share what I've learned so far. I'm hoping that you, who are more knowledgeable, will add to this. I purchased the following for this comparison: NoctiLumina G8UF LumiNova (it appears to be similar to Super-LumiNova, C3). NoctiLumina Binder 1A I'm considering purchasing Super-LumiNova for this comparison, but have not done so yet. If anyone has some they'd be willing to part with, please let me know. In the following photo, you will see 4 columns of Phosphorescent pigment 'dots' (Column 1 is on the far Left, Column 4 is on the far Right). Columns 1 and 2 are NoctiLumina G8UF (column 1 is on bare aluminum, column 2 is on top of a White Undercoat) Columns 3 and 4 are LumiNova (column 3 is on bare aluminum, column 4 is on top of a White Undercoat) Here's a daylight shot for comparison: Both pigments are mixed in the same ratio (as much as possible) with NoctiLumina Binder 1A. As you can see, the LumiNova seems to glow brighter than the NoctiLumina. In addition, both pigments, when placed on top of a white (reflective) background glow brighter than the pigment placed on uncoated aluminum. DISCLAIMER: I don't know the particle size of the NoctiLumina. This would be a more accurate comparison if the particle size of the pigments was the same. They appear, however, to be the same (I can't tell a difference between the two by looking at them or by working with them). I cannot mix the Pigment and Binder in the EXACT same ratios. The ratio may effect the glow and may effect the dried appearance. COMMENTS: [*]I'd like to find a binder that doesn't shrink when it dries. It appears that RCTritec sells a Binder (A100) which has no volume loss after drying. This would probably help to get a nicer finish. If anyone is aware of a better binder than NoctiLumina 1A, please let me know. I've already tried fingernail polish and Model Master Lacquer, but the NoctiLumina Binder seems to be better than either of them. [*]In daylight, the surface of the LumiNova looks better than the NoctiLumina. The surface of the NoctiLumina is not as smooth as the LumiNova (see pictures below). This may have to do with my mix ratios. [*]I'm now tempted to strip the NoctiLumina off one of my watches and re-lume with LumiNova. NOCTILUMINA: LUMINOVA:

I have a B&R 03-92 from Josh and I love it (I'm wearing it right now). for a big watch, it's really comfortable (I have the version with a rubber strap). It's the first watch that I've seriously considered buying the Gen (but nobody in the area carries them). I have to say, however, that I've had a lot of problems with the A4813 movement. It just randomly stops. I have to check it all the time to make sure that it's still going. I have a new movement on the way (only $26 from Ofrei), but it's still a bit of a pain.

New Breitlings? I can't wait! Importr, I understand your frustration. While I love this hobby, it seems that I am now forced to become a bit of a watch smith (which can be fun too). Some of my watches (a BCE among them) do, however run perfectly... for now. What makes me mad is that the stupid $20 clock in my kitchen has been running perfectly for years, but my $200 rep stopped after only 2 months! I read somewhere that Rolex (or whatever) are for people who don't really need to know the time. I think I need a Breitling for Bentley.

I'm not an expert (by any means), but I'll do my best to help you. I have a B&R 03-92 that I've taken apart many times and I assume the disassembly procedure is the same for you're 01-92. First, lay out a towel, you don't want to loose any of your little screws. Next, remove the Tiny screw on the back (it says 'do not unscrew'), this will give you access to the crown release button (not the technical term, I'm sure). Push on the crown release button and you'll be able to pull out the crown/stem. Once the crown (and stem) are out you can remove the front face of the watch. Carefully unscrew the 4 screws on the front. Once the screws are removed, the face of the watch simply lifts off (there's an o-ring in there too, so don't loose that). At this point, the entire movement/dial can be removed from the watch. Don't touch the face of the watch, it's flat black and shows every little thing (believe me, I know). I'm not sure which movement you have in your 01-92, but if it's a 4813 (like mine), it's probably cheaper to replace than to fix (it's around $27 from Ofrei). As you may have guessed, my B&R is dead and I have to replace the movement. I hope this helps, good luck. Edit - I noticed that your 01-92 is more likely to have a 2836-2 movement. Ofrei sells the ETA 2836-2, but it may be cheaper to fix the one you have.

It's very kind of you to make this offer available to us, thanks. I'd be interested in one (not sure which one yet).

Ok... my attempted fix (making the stem longer) doesn't seem to have worked after all. After running perfectly for several days, it now just randomly stops. If I could make the stem longer, that might help, but there aren't enough threads. Since a new 4813 is only $26 (from Ofrei), I decided to just replace the movement. I hope I didn't send anyone down the wrong path with my previously proposed solution.

HA!, yes, I am stubborn (or dedicated, as I like to say). I did not remove the existing lume, I was too afraid of scratching the dial. I figured that I'd have less chance of screwing it up if I just went over the old lume. You know what, though... now I'm thinking about stripping it all off and starting again (I swear, there's something wrong with me). My fiance said that she's going to hide her watches so I don't try luming them (smart girl). On a scale of 1-10, I'd say the glow is a 6 (the rep lume being a 4). I'll see if I can borrow my buddies Gen Breitling (I'm not sure exactly which ones he has) and compare the lume side-by-side. I've never seen SuperLumiNova, so I don't know how it would rate (i'd expect it to be 10, but, maybe I expect too much).

In an attempt to fix the problem with my BR03-92 I tried the following: I pulled out the crown stem, measured the overall length (from the end of the crown to the end of the stem). Unscrewed the crown (not an easy thing to do, the crown is bonded to the stem). Screwed the crown back onto the stem (not screwing it on quite as far), leaving an additional .01" from the end of the crown to the end of the stem. I used loctite to secure the crown to the stem. This seems to have done the trick. Since the adjustment, I haven't had a single problem. I'm a bit surprised and keep expecting it to fail, but so far it's working perfectly. I'm keeping my eye out for a replacement movement (or replacement stem) just in case.

I recently decided to try my hand at re-luming. I used NoctiLumina because it's not too expensive and it's a LOT easier to acquire than Superluminova. I used Noctilumina Pigment G8UF (Ultra Fine < 5 micron) along with Binder 1A and Thinner 1A. I practiced several times, then went for it on my BCE dial (couldn't resist). I know it's not perfect, but unless I'm looking at it under magnification, I can't see the flaws. It glows much better than the rep lume (sorry, no picture, my low-light camera skills are lacking). Just as a un-scientific test, I held it under a light before going to bed (10:30pm) and at 3:00am, I could still see the markers. I seriously doubt that it would last the claimed 8 hours. I'm dying to try Superluminova, I keep hearing that it's easier to work with and has better performance. I didn't think the noctilumina was that terrible to work with (at least not the G8UF), so Superluminova should be even better. Now I just need some Rodico so I can clean everything up. Oh yea, and I need to re-lume the hands.

I'm sorry to hear that you're having similar problems, but I'm glad it's not just me (I'm not crazy). I, like you, love this watch, I just hope there's an less expensive solution than replacing the movement.

I've been having problems with my B&R 03-92 (Asian 4813 movement). When I pull out the crown to adjust the time, the second hand stops (perfectly normal). Most of the time, however, when I push the crown back in, the second hand does NOT start back up again. If it does start again, it usually stops within a short period of time (I've made sure that there's plenty of power reserve, so that's not the issue). Sometimes, when I push in the crown, I am still able to adjust the time! It

I read that the case can be opened with a tool that's also used to open cell phones (I need to confirmed this). If it's true it would be a solution to opening the case.

Mine doesn't have the issue with the 1/3 mm play in the minute counter (I got mind from Josh... if that makes any difference). Regarding the Band... The clasp issue bugs me too. I don't know if it's a defect or a poor design. Just like jockl1978, I close both parts at the same time. I'd wear the watch every day, but those little band-release 'buttons' dig into my wrist. There's no fine adjustment. You have to cut the band to fit your wrist (hope you don't make a mistake) and live with that size. One last thing, I can't change the band because it requires a special tool (which I can't, yet, find). Beautiful watch, inferior band.

I'm a Mechanical Design Engineer.

I, too recently purchased a BCE (mine was from Ruby). On mine, the tab on the bezel at 12:00 is loose. I was thinking of removing the screw and grinding it down slightly but I haven't been brave enough to do that yet and it doesn't really bother me that much. My guess is that he screw is too long and is bottoming out before tightening the tab. My strap, however, is great. I had to lubricate it (being careful not to get any on the face of the dial), but now, it's awesome... really!

I've been researching Chemical Supply houses that sell LumiNova (not Super-LumiNova, RC Tritec owns that name). I have not, yet, been able to confirm the differences between LumiNova and Super-LumiNova (they don't sell samples). I've read that they're the same chemical composition, but that Super-Luminova is processed under stricter manufacturing guidlines and so results in a better product. The difference in price and availability compared to RC Tritec, however, is enormous!! If you're looking for something like Super-LumiNova, but a LOT less expensive and a easier to get (if you're in the USA), LumiNova MAY be a good solution. The problem is that the minimum buy is 2lb! I'd be willing to buy 2lb as long as I could sell some of it (it's cheap, but not free, and I don't need 2lb). PM me if you're interested and if it looks like it will work out, I'll get the 2lb.

Man, I should have just asked you to begin with! I've been talking to 2 different Chemical supply houses in the US that sell Luminova. It sounds like it MIGHT be the same stuff that RC Tritec sells. I've heard that RC Tritec owns the rights to the name SuperLumiNova, but that the pigment is the same as LumiNova. The only thing is that you have to buy a minimum of 1lb of the stuff. The good news is that it's not too horribly expensive (a lot less than RC Tritec). With 1lb, I could lume everything in my house! Or... I could re-package it and re-sell it as SuperDuperLumiNova, any takers?

Yup, Big 5. I guess I just haven't noticed watches like I do now. I thought this was pretty surprising, I guess it's a lot more common than I thought.

I was at a Sporting Goods store last night and a watch they had behind the counter caught my eye. The sales-girl was kind enough to let me snap a picture. I was tempted to buy it (it's even on sale), but I just couldn't bring myself to it. Dang, if it just had Chronos:

I've been trying to figure out the difference (if any) between Luminova and SuperLuminova. I found this on a Rolex Forum: The terms "SuperLuminova" and "Luminova" describe the same paint compound. Technically, there is no difference between the two, but "SuperLuminova" is a term reserved by Nemoto's European partner, Tritec Can anyone confirm this? Thanks

I've been reading a lot of threads trying to research the differences between Noctilumina and Superluminova. In general it sounds like Noctilumina isn't too bad, however, I haven't found anything definitive. The advantages with Noctilumina are that it's easier to get and it's not too expensive. But, if it's cr@p, there's no point in even trying it... any thoughts/experiences? I assume it's better than rep lume, but is it anywhere close to Superluminova? What I'd really like to see/try is the Superluminova/Tritium mix that The Zigmeister uses, but I live in the USA (no Tritium for me).