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According to my 2008 R20 insert the crystal gasket used for the 116618 and 116619 (can't the 116610) is 29-295-2. That gasket is 2.7mm. I have to assume that the gasket for the 116610 would be the same as these. If I am wrong in reading this, please let me know.

Thanks for posting the link Live. Please pass along my congrats and thanks to zocker as well. One question I had is why you used a 2.3mm crystal gasket. Rolex uses the 29-295-2 crystal gasket on this model which is 2.7mm. With everything else gen, I wonder if the crystal is .4mm too low.

Thanks again for persevering. I for one certainly care and appreciate the additional info. There is very little out there in the wild and am happy to know more now.

I am so glad you got it apart. Can't wait to hear about the details and what you think about putting it back together will entail. Thanks!!!

Okay. I am a little confused here. I am not sure why exactly the insert has to come off. What is causing the problem? If it is pre-aligned at the factory and you are using everything genuine (crystal, gaskets, retaining ring, etc) it should just press on. Now I believe that M has hit the nail on the head. Rolex does recommend that the retaining gasket only be used once. I have read a few threads where people have taken off the bezels, reused the gasket, and the assembly has fallen off. As an aside, though, I am loving this thread :)

Now that is a looker!!! Very well done sir!!!

I have a bad picture of the die they use for the 116710. It looks like it pushes through the grooves in the bezel. I don't know what the one looks like for the 116610 looks like, but would be interested in it as well.

Good work!!! Can't wait to see how this comes out and goes back in. Will you please show us detailed pics of the process of putting the whole assembly together. I am very curious about seeing it. Thanks!!!

Glad you got it off!!! Sounds like you are discovering and backing up what little I have been able to glimmer off of the internet. Please be careful with the little gasket that goes inside of the bezel. I have heard that it is easy to crimp and not easily available as a replacement. I am still unsure how to get the insert out safely. It has to come out, otherwise there is no way to guarantee that your insert will line up properly. Rolex lists several dies but I don't have any pictures. I wonder if one of the dies has a diameter the same as the ID of the bezel (so that the inner lip of the insert is resting on the die) and the other die just barely fits over the bezel. Thanks for the pictures by the way!!!!

I am no expert and have no first hand knowledge of this but are you sure? I know that the BP disassemblies I have seen show the retaining ring with a wider upper section that does hold on the bezel. I also think that this assembly forgoes the nylon ring between the retaining ring and the bezel. In the diagram that you posted, it looks as if there is a small lip on the bottom of the retaining ring. I looked a little more closely at the same diagram in my R20 catalog and it shows it as well. I am wondering if one of the guys that received their assembly disassembled could take some pictures of their retaining ring and also of the underside of the bezel. BP Sub (pictured borrowed from the web):

I wish I knew the answer to your question. I am keeping an eye on this this to hear the ideas. I would think that the retaining ring would be pressed over the crystal and crystal gasket before installing the bezel. I also want to say that I read somewhere that it is best to install the nylon gasket inside the bezel and press that on. Also hoping someone can help get the insert off. Most threads say that a special die has to be used. I am sure some modded has done it though.

I have tried every Bergeon finishing block, several grits on a emery stick, and two types of scotch brite pads. I can't get the grain to match that of the factory. It could be the materials or the application (block vs wheel). I have also read that the factory uses lapping machines in order to get the angles precise and even. There are a few sites that do refinishing but they are overseas.

Will do.

Thanks Freddy! Most places can do a good job but really fine case refinishing seems to be a dying art. I have a few leads and will hopefully be happy with the results. Thanks again!

Okay. Thanks for the input. I will give him a ring and see what he says. Thanks again!

Thanks cc33. Have you seen his work? He always asks if I want my cases vintaged . Not sure I trust pics on his site. Any other recommendations? Thanks.

I know that this is a noob question but does anyone know of someone that can refinish a sub case to rolex specs in the US? I am talking about the brushing of the lugs and putting the proper bevels. Looking for a place that can do it spot on. Feel free to pm if you want. Thanks!!!

Thanks guys!!!

Hey guys, I was trying to wait until i had everything in hand before I started this build but I am still waiting on a few parts and just can't wait any longer . I had planned on building a LV Submariner one day but it was further down the list. I happened upon a great deal for a dial and hands that made the build jump to the front. This one was inspired by some of the great builds on this and other boards and I hope to live up to that standard. Anyway, I started putting some of the things that I had for the project. Here are some pics: I'll keep updating the thread as parts come in. I am hoping to have this one done in a few weeks. Thanks for looking!!!!!

Thanks for the clarification. This sounds very similar to the 372 that I have (purchased from Andrew). The cap did come off of the hands in my watch. Here are some pics of its construction. Thanks again for the teardown!!!!

I did read the full review before asking my question. I can only see the tip of the cannon pinion in your pictures. I was wondering if you had one like the hour wheel picture. The cap was asked to further discuss the construction. Thanks.

Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and share with us. This looks like an excellent attempt and I hope that the next iterations will be even better. As always, there is room for improvement (an to also make things worse ). Did you happen to take a picture of the cannon pinion? Does this version also have a cap that fits over the cannon pinion? Thanks again!!!!

I am by no means an expert but one of two things have happened. Do you have the center wheel removed in your pictures? I am looking from my phone and can't really tell. If you do, the the cannon pinion probably came off of the center wheel post. If you haven't removed the center wheel, then the post has snapped off and is inside of the cannon pinion. If the cannon pinion simply came off, you will have to reattach it and remove the hands. Then tighten the crimp so that it will stay on the center wheel. If the center wheel post broke off inside the cannon pinion, you will need a new center wheel and a new cannon pinion (unless you can get the broken pivot out. You will still need to remove the hands to get to the hour wheel and also reinstall everything. Certainly not a waste of a movement in my opinion. Just needs a little TLC. Best of luck!

Can't wait to see what you find lurking inside there. Very eager to hear your impressions. Especially in regards to reliability, serviceability, and parts interchangeability.

I would love to see that if you have a pic. Thanks!