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Thanks for the comparison shots!!! I appreciate the time and help. Still have a little work to do.

Thanks for the tip on the crown guard screws. I will have to keep an eye out for a set of OEM screws. I mistyped and wrote bezel and meant to say bevel. Here are some pictures of the other side of the crown. The side profile of the teeth aren't as clean, or sharp, as before. I don't know if this is due to the crown not being perfectly round or what. I set up my cross slide so the angle should have been consistent. I am not exactly sure what chamfer you are referring to as well.

Thanks Wolf I would appreciate the pictures. I went ahead and tried it myself. I took the crown apart pretty easily, so the locktite is a good recommendation. I also tried to cut a new bevel and polish the knurls. I have no idea how it turned out so you can be the judge of whether it is improved. I cut the bezel using my lathe and a graver, but it would probably be better to use a cross slide to set an exact angle. Maybe I will try that out. Thanks again!!!!

Thanks for the compliments!!! Wolf...I appreciate the tips and pointers. Anything to make this better is always appreciated. My crown did not come apart while working on it and I did know know that it was a two piece crown. I will certainly throw some locktite on it when I work on the crown. Do you have any macro shots of a genuine crown? I searched my image library, google, and ebay and came up empty. I am just looking to see the proper angle and how sharp the crown teeth are. Lastly, what do you use to change the angle of the beveling? Do you use something as harsh as a file or something less harsh like an emery stick? Thanks again for the tips!!!!

Well, I think that I can call my 111 as good as I can get it (right now). I used to own a genuine 111 but I couldn't justify owning it. The styling was awesome but at the end of the day, it had an ETA movement. I believe this is about 98% as good as that one was. Plus I don't have to justify owning it to myself The only problem now is that I have a 243 on its way and am looking into getting a 127. I hope the fever isn't catching.... This one has been a real pleasure to work on and a refreshing change from my usual Rolexes. The only thing that I am unhappy with is that I had to use dial dots to secure the dial to the movement. The dial feet weren't wide enough for the screws to grab. The package of dial feet that I had were also not wide enough. Other than that, I am happy with how it turned out. The movement mods are listed above in the thread. The only thing extra I did was strip the hour wheel down to the brass. I am glad that I did because it is a very nice subtle change. Anyway, here are some picture of the final product. I also made a new crown guard pin since I wasn't 100% please with the stock one. Thanks for all of the lookers and helpers. Without you, this couldn't have been done.

The caseback isn't one of Phong's. It looks like a service back.

After looking at their website more closely, it looks like the 929 is the one you want for nickel plated brass. It says that it will safely remove the nickel plate without etching the base material. Gonna order some of that too.

Hi Wolf, The stripper that I used is water soluble and came from caswellplating.com. It is called their B9 nickel stripper. It works quickly and I am trying to see if it will just strip the nickel or attack the brass if left in too long. Thanks for the additional pictures. I honestly had never seen pictures taken from those angles to tell. It is pretty obvious once you see it though. Thanks again!!!

I had some free time this weekend and wasn't happy using the nickel plated hour wheel after Wolf's question regarding said hour wheel. I had come this far, so what was a few more hours. I read that you can use bleach or acetone to remove nickel plating, so I gave that a try. After several hours, the bleach looked like it was sort of working and the acetone not at all. I remembered that I had some nickel removing powder left over from a project that never happened and gave that a try. It worked like a charm and only took an hour or two to get it completely removed. After that, it was just a matter of brushing the finish back on. I still need to get some tung oil to help seal the brass from corrosion but I think it turned out well. Here it is next the standard nickel hour wheel and mounted on the movement. Thanks to Wolf for the challenge :)

Ah....I see what you are saying now. I haven't found a brass hour wheel source yet, so I was planning on using the nickel plated one. It won't matter once the dial is mounted.

Very talented and creative work. Good idea to use the tape to give you the right diameter.

Thanks for the compliment Wolf! The hour wheel just isn't in the picture. Is there anything that needs to be done with it?

Hi Guys, I just finished performing the mods on my 111 movement and thought I would share some pics. I still need to do some final timing adjustments and then case it up. Here is a list of mods: Genuine Incabloc Installed Shaped Swan Neck Spring Flat Polished the Click Screw, Ratchet Screw, Crown Wheel Screw, and Set Lever Screw Polished the Click Brushed the Center, Third, and Fourth Wheels (not quite spec but better) Installed ETA Polished Ratchet and Crown Wheels Flat Polished the Canon Pinion Brushed the Set Lever Spring Serviced Movement The only thing that I would like to add is a better swan neck screw. I am hoping that this will become a reality someday. I have yet to see one that looks identical to the real deal. As always, thanks for looking and feel free to comment (good, bad, or ugly) Here are some pics.........

Hi Guys, I was trying to flatten and make the crown guard pin flush on my 111 and one of the corners chipped. I was able to get it flat but it was then too short to stay in place. I decided to try and make a new one and was hoping someone would comment on it. Is it close or is there anything that would make it better? Any and all criticisms are welcome. Thanks!!!!

Thanks! I made the screw myself. Not easy to do and not sure I can get much better with my current set-up. The wheels have been brushed but I don't have the means to replace them.

Hi guys, I typically frequent the Rolex forums and don't believe I have posted much on the PAM forum. I love the style on PAM's and have owned several reps and a genuine 111. I came across the latest 111 recently and decided to take the plunge once again. The latest purchase was a noob 111N v3 from one of the TD's and I am in the process of starting some of the mods. I decided to start with the balance [censored], since that seems like the most obvious flaw with this particular movement. After installing the correct ETA incabloc setting, I filed the bottom of the swan neck regulator to match the shape of the genuine part, and also made an adjust screw. My question for the experts is about the screw. Do the proportions look close? I based them on comparative measurements taken from several different genuine pictures. I know that it isn't perfect. I still need to perfect my threading and also want to find a better way to slot the screw. I would also love to drill the two small holes in the head for adjusting (any ideas on that would be appreciated). Anyway, here is the picture and please feel free to add comments (good and bad). Thanks!!!

I have to agree with panerai153. The data sheet for the 3130 says it is based on the 3135 but it has a lot of different parts listed. One of them being the mainplate. Finding all of the parts would be difficult or impossible.

How comfortable are you with removing the dial and hands? If you feel comfortable doing so, take a picture of the cannon pinion from the side. That way we can see if it is meshing or if there is something else amiss.

You would need to take the dial and hands off to first check. See if the minute wheel is meshing with the cannon pinion. If not. that is your problem. If it is meshing with the minute wheel, it will need to be tightened. If you have access to a staking set and know how to use it, you can do it.

If you can set the time with the crown but the hands don't move over time, then your cannon pinion is loose of the center wheel. It is eithet not seated properly or it simply needs to be tightened.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me the differences between 1675 and 5513 crystal retaining rings. I have a ring that I bought as a genuine 5513 retaining ring but I have tried fitting it to two different brand new bezels with no luck. I have most of the measurements for a 5513 retaining ring and it matches all of those, but it is just too tight. I can press the bezel onto the retaining ring but it just will not spin. I wonder if the slope it too much, not allowing it to spin. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!!!!

Thanks Alligoat, I am still on the fence on whether or not I want to use it. Your case still looks a little beefier than this one. I may work on it a little and see if I can make it better. if I don't like it, I can always try and sell it. It certainly is cheaper than finding a genuine case.

Thanks for the replies guys! It is indeed a 1570(5) movement with the automatic mechanism removed. It is also a genuine date wheel. Here are a couple of reference pictures. The case is indeed very thin, but would you try to source another case? Thanks!!!! An unmolested 1680 replacement case from Rolex: A genuine 1680 case after years of polishing and service: The Ingod44 case:

Hi Guys, I have been trying to build a 1680 for some time now but have been missing a case. I recently saw someone post about Ingod44's cases and decided to take a bite. Their emails were very prompt and confirmed that it would accept genuine parts. I tried contacting Yuki but never received anything back after repeated emails. Here is the case that I received today. I would like some opinions of whether or not this would be a good case to use for my project. The case will accept a genuine dial, movement, tube, caseback, crystal (it is a little looser than I would like, but I think it will work), spring bars, and possibly end links (I don't have any genuine 580's right now). There are only a few things that I would do differently. One is that there is no ring for a gasket on top of the case under the crystal retaining ring. I know that the early cases like this did not have the gasket, so it isn't a deal breaker as long as it is water tight. Another thing is that the lugs have been polished down on top so that they have a slight slope to them. I would have preferred to see them a little thicker, but I have some genuine pictures of 1680's with cases that look like this after years of use and service. The last thing is that I would prefer better engravings and a custom serial. Again, I never look between the lugs so that doesn't matter much. The inner crown guards actually look okay to me. I plan on smoothing out the sharp edge on the very outside, but don't want to take too much off because that would then make them too short. I also plan on smoothing and polishing the sharp edge on top. I may do some general work on the case so it doesn't look quite so new, but don't want to over do it. I don't like my watches to look too worn. I am going more for that fresh from service look. I am using a new luminova dial, hands, insert, with a new bezel and bracelet. What do you guys think of the case? Does the rehaut seem okay to you? Is there anything that I missed that you would change? Thanks in advance for taking the time to look and for any ideas/thoughts. Please excuse the hurried pictures, dust, fingerprints and bad dial (It is an extra one I have)

Thanks for the well wishes. Did you do the crown guard work on that one as well? If so, nice job!