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Thanks for the response! I have seen some people mill out the MBW case so that a genuine dial fits and also a genuine movement, but I lack the know-how and skills to do that I am also waiting for highho's cases as well, but haven't heard whether or not they will accept a genuine movement. Thanks again!!!

Hi Guys, I have been wanting to build a solid 1680 for quite some time. I have an older MBW red 1680 but I want to build one with more genuine parts. I know that I could probably buy a decent example of a white 1680 for $4000-$5000, but I enjoy the "build" part of the projects. I want one with a service luminova dial, hands, and insert (saw someone's on here and loved it). I find the glow of the luminova useful and somehow comforting. I have been collecting parts, as I have found them, for the past year or so and already have the dial, hands, insert, crystal, crown, and tube. I was thinking of buying a genuine beater and transplanting the parts I have into it, but the chances of getting a beater with a good case are small. I have been watching VRF for about 6 months and most of the good cases also come with good dials (and a premium). I was thinking of buying a Phong case but the crown guards on his site from the back don't look genuine. And there is not enough material to modify them to make them look genuine. I have used a few Phong cases and the quality is good but at the price he charges, I would like better crown guards. The case on Yuki's site seems to be more accurate in that aspect, but I have read horror stories when it comes to fitting everything else. I was wondering what you guys would do in my case. Does anyone have a recent Yuki 1680 case or Phong case? Thanks in advance for the advice!

I never really noticed the difference between the way the end of the lugs are finished, but you are right. The Sean case is definitely different from the TC. Do you have any pictures of a genuine non lug hole case? I don't have any in my library to compare but I did find a couple on eBay. These are from two different Z serial Submariners. The look like they are tapered to me. Or it could just be the angle of the picture. I also looked at my genuine non lug hole Sea-Dweller and the lugs are tapered on it as well. Good to see this thread still going

Good eye E! All of the bars measure 1.98mm at the main shaft. The genuine and Star Time measure about 1.46mm for the next step while the TC meaures 1.55mm. All 3 measure .86mm at the very tip.

I found my TC spring bars and have them set next to the Genuine and Star Time spring bars. Top to Bottom: Genuine Star Time TC

I agree that spring bars are just spring bars but I was looking something that was close to the original with good quality, fit, and finish. I think I have some TC bars somewhere. If I can find them, I will throw them in as well.

I was trying to find a source for good spring bars for 93250 bracelet several months back and was given a lot of recommendations. Some of the recommendations included Star Time, WSO990 on eBay, and Ofrei. I didn't see the proper spring bar on Ofrei's site so I didn't place an order with them. I was able to find a genuine set online and also placed order with WSO990 and Start Time. I decided to do a little photo comparison of the three and also included a left over set of WM9 spring bars that I have. I thought this might be useful to someone since I couldn't find a visual comparison when I was searching. Top to Bottom Genuine Star Time WM9 WSO990 Top to Bottom Genuine Star Time Left to Right Genuine Star Time My impression is that the Star Time spring bar is pretty much dead on for a genuine replacement spring bar. The measurements are exactly the same and the finish is just as good. I wouldn't waste my money on the WSO990 spring bars since they aren't the correct dimensions. Anyway, just wanted to share that Star Time is a great economical option for replacement spring bars. Thanks for reading!

Great work!!!! I hope someone can get you a genuine movement to see if it will work. I guess my budget will be blown again

Thanks for the uber clear pics Valty!!! The genuine bezel certainly does have much better teeth definition. Looks like I have something else to add to the list of parts for the 1665. Thanks again!!!

Like others have said...stay away from this one. Just at first glance the long E's on the case scream fake. Even a Phong case gets that right.

Thanks Valty! Can't wait to see what yours looks like. Thanks for posting pics Vlydog. Did you mount yours on a gen retaining ring? Thanks!!!

I am in for a 5514 and 1680 if a gen movement will work.

I would love to see your gen bezel. Do you have any pictures of it compared to the one on the Phong case? Thanks!!!

That would be a killer combo! I am not really happy with my case and was thinking of upgrading. So you bought a gen bezel and it fit the Phong retaining ring? That is good to know. Thanks!!!

I might be in the same boat as you Valty . It looks like the MQ caseback has an edge over the Phong. Does anyone know anything about the midcase? I was quoted a price of $900 for the case and $450 for the caseback. Does anyone have a midcase to show?

That is some fine workmanship!!!! Congrats!!!!

You are going to burn through my budget so fast!!!!! Thanks for the hard work. I would be down for one and several of the others you are planning. Do you know if your 1680 case will take a gen movement?

Here is a picture of my Phong 1665 caseback. Sorry it isn't the best picture but it is the best one that I have in my library.

Thanks for the help gentlemen. I didn't have to modify anything to get it to work. I had a couple of retaining rings lying around (from MBW watches) and one of those worked just fine. Thanks for the help and advice. I will post some pics when I get a minute to take some.

Hi Robaer, I would much prefer to sand on the MBW retaining ring than the bezel itself. Can you tell me what surface on the retaining ring you sanded? Thanks!

I was thinking of that as well. I have a lead on a NOS retaining ring, but it is kind of pricey.

Thanks for the tips! I looked around the retaining ring and did not see any cracks. I think the case may be that my retaining ring is slightly warped. I tried to get it to sit flat but felt like I was chasing my own tail I managed to get the MBW retaining ring to work but it isn't as smooth as I would like. When I installed the insert into the bezel, it started to feel tight again. I think that I am going to look for a new crystal and possibly a new retaining ring. Thanks again for the tips!!!!

I looked carefully and the bezel isn't touching the case anywhere. I decided to try an MBW retaining ring and it seems to fit. It is tight with the friction washer, but I am reducing the thickness of that as we speak. I will let you know if it works out. Thanks again!!!!

I will take a look at that and get back to you. If that is the case, is the solution a thicker gasket? Thanks again for all of the tips and help!

The retaining ring, friction washer, and bezel work together when off of the watch. Thanks!