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Thanks for the valuable information. I am writing this one down.

That is a really good idea. Kind of thinking outside of the box.

Thanks guys! The part that screws into the case was loose on one of my pushers, so I decided to replace them. I also seem to remember that DW's pushers use c-clips to hold the pusher onto the case, where as the Ofrei pusher screw in. But the Ofrei pushers do have the be trimmed to length.

I just received these two beauties back from The Zigmeister last week, and am just now getting around to take some pictures. The first is my DW 6263 that was started ages ago. After a bad dial and not being able to get the movement going, I decided to send it to The Zigmeister. He serviced it for me and got it running like a top. He also installed the dial and hands for me. This one has a Valjoux 72, genuine Tropic 21 crystal, Casker tube, genuine 703 crown, and Ofrei pushers. The end links are modified genuine 571's and I am expecting a genuine 78350 bracelet this week. I have to say that I am loving this watch. I was afraid that it might be too small, but it is almost perfect. Now I want to start a 6239 The GMT is one of BK's transformers. The dial and hands on it did not match when I bought it, so I sent them to The Zigmeister to have them lumed. I have installed a genuine crown and tube and the black insert is also genuine. I am still not sure I am sold on this one. I thought I would love it, but that feeling just isn't there. I have a genuine Pepsi insert on the way, so I am hoping that it will help the love. I do like the Pepsi combination best of the three. The clasp on it is also hideous. If I decide to keep it, I may try to find a genuine clasp. I might also look for another transformer bezel and add the Coke option as well. Anyway, sorry for the boring read. Now onto the bad pics. Thanks for looking!!!!

This looks very promising. I would definitely be interested in some if these come through!!! Great job!!!!

I would figure at least $200-300 for the parts you would need (cannon pinion, hour wheel, chronograph wheel). I would also highly recommend the center wheel, but that is just me. The service will also be at least $300, plus more if there is extra labor in the assembly. Most dials I have seen go for around $700 and the hands are at least $250. You may be able to find a good deal hear and there but these are prices I have seen on the forums and eBay. Keep in mind that if you are going through the trouble of using a genuine dial and hands, your case may have things you want to fix (crystal, bezel, pushers, crown and stem). I don't want to discourage you at all, but doing a project like this on the cheap will be tough.

There is no doubt that Phong's cases are expensive. You might be able to find the MBW case for around $700 (if you can find one). I haven't seen a genuine case come up for sale (just the case), and I have been doing mine for quite a while. I don't think that a good case would sell for less than $2000. If you are going to add genuine parts, a 16520 is not a cheap build. Also, Phong will charge you $1250 to make you Zenith movement into a "4030", and that doesn't include the rotor. It certainly is an expensive project and that is partly why it is taking me so long

He charged me $1000 for the mid-case and back.

You are not going to get a Rolex 4030 for that price. The parts to truly convert are more than he asks. He supposedly has 2 different priced cases. One is $1450 and the other is $1650. I just ordered the mid-case and caseback yesterday (since everything else will be genuine). Will post pictures next week.

Thanks for looking at all of your crowns Automatico and for posting your results. I think your findings pretty much support what I was thinking. I feel like I can finally put this issue to rest now :thumbsupsmileyanim: Thanks again!!!!!

Good score!!! There was a thread on VRF a few weeks ago with a crown looking similar to yours. The consensus was that it was simply over polished. It is hard to see the tube in the bag. Do you think it is useable? Also, I would check the crystal for any crack along the bottom outer rim if you plan on using it. Or just be careful near water Link to VRF conversation: http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/message/1298566375/Submariner+168000+Crown+question

As others have noted, you will have to remove the calendar mechanism for the movement to work. There are only a small number of changes from the 3019 to the 400. The 3019 has been out for a while and has proven to be a good and reliable movement. Because it has been around for so long, your movement will probably need a service unless you know its service history. How much are you looking to spend on this project? I can speak from experience that it is not a cheap build. You had asked about a genuine dial and hands. The dial will work, but most of the hands will need some modifications in order to fit the Zenith movement. I would recommend changing the cannon pinion (for the minute hand), hour wheel (hour hand), and chronograph wheel (central chronograph seconds). I would also highly recommend replacing the center wheel as well, as the Zenith center wheel will need some modifications so that the Rolex chronograph wheel can pass through it. You can often find the center wheel and cannon pinion sold together. The hour counting wheel has the same size pivot on both movements. I am not sure about the minute counting wheel. The small seconds hand will have to be reduced to fit onto the Zenith fourth wheel pivot. I am in the middle of doing my own 16520 project and will post more with pictures when I have something to show. I was also going to take measurements for future reference. As for a case..... I would stay away from the NDT case. I don't really think their case is very accurate for the price they ask. I do believe there is someone still selling the old MBW style cases. You will just have to ask around and see if you can find one. I want to say they were asking around $700 or so. I am going with a Phong case myself. It has been used before and looks nice. Plus, it is much cheaper than finding a genuine case. Best of luck on your project and keep us posted!!!!!

I am 100% without a shadow of a doubt sure the crown on my Sea-Dweller is genuine. Everything on that watch is I don't know when the 704 was introduced but I would think it has at least been a decade. My only question is why there are more true 703 crimped crowns floating around. Wouldn't we all like to buy some used ones at 1/3 -1/2 the price of a new one?

Thanks Blix, Your comparison shots came out better than mine I am going to go with my gut and say that these are indeed genuine. They are not 703's as I was told they were, but 704's. We'll see if I am wrong :brow:

Thanks Kurt, All of the 703's I have bought and have seen on the internet (NIP) have the vintage coronet. I haven't seen many, but the pictures of the 704's (NIP) have the modern coronet. It would be nice to have a definitive answer though. It just makes me think that Rolex is going to eventually phase out the 703 and replace everything with the 704. Why else would the document that my 16600 should have a 703 and put a 704 on it at the factory?

I truly don't want to beat a dead horse, but I would like to find an answer to some questions. So far, I have yet to see a picture of a crimped 703 crown with the newer style coronet. I am thinking that all crowns with that style coronet are modern monobloc 704's. The R20 catalog from 2003 says that 16600 Sea-Dweller's are supposed to have 703 crowns, yet mine (which has an F serial number and has never been serviced) has a 704. Why do I say it is a 704? Because it has the modern style coronet and I see no crimping. I was going to pop off the back and take off the stem but decided it was unnecessary. I could easily see the crimps on the 703 crown on my 1680. I am also not convinced that the crowns posted originally are aftermarket or fake. I was able to get some better pictures of the two crowns I posted yesterday. Again, the one mounted is on my Sea-Dweller and the loose crown was purchased off of eBay (as a 703). I tried to combine the two pictures to see if they lined up. The angle and size of the crowns are not 100% identical, but they look very much the same to me. I also took a side by side picture of my Sea-Dweller crown and the crown on the left of Blix's crown shot. Again, the angle, quality, and size aren't the same, but they also look the same to me. I have to apologize about the quality of the comparison shots. I had to take them with my phone since I don't knwo how to take a screenshot on the computer. Perhaps my eyes aren't as good as they used to be, and someone can point out some differences. If Blix's crowns and my loose crown are fake/aftermarket, then they are pretty good. I have seen some that you could spot from 3 feet away. I am always looking to learn and aftermarket parts are getting very good, so please feel free to chime in. Loose Mounted on Sea-Dweller Combined Picture Side By Side

That looks like a great start!!!!!!

Thanks again Kurt! I am a little skeptical myself about the crowns myself. The seller told me that the crowns he was selling were bought from a watchmaker. He buys the old crowns that are still good. The ones I got looked like they were all "marked" as rejects so as not to be used again. Have you ever seen a 703 crimped crown with the newer coronet? Also, I took a micrometer reading on the base of both crowns I pictured. The bas of the coronet was the same on both. From left to right about about 1.2mm and up and down was about .56mm (that was from the inside of the lines). I was planning on using that crown on my Daytona, but may have to reconsider now :g: I agree that they do look different in the pictue, but they look identical in person. I don't know if it is the angle or the lighting. I will try to get a better straight on picture tomorrow. Thanks again!!!!

Thanks for the pictures Kurt! I feel like you have more expertise in this area. Are you saying that you are 100% sure all of the crowns you pictured have the crimped construction? If so, then that answers my question about 703's with a modern coronet. I have attached some pictures from my R20 2003 catalog and first service guide (not sure of the year). They show a lot of different crowns but may add to the confusion. I have also posted a picture of a "703" crown I purchase off of eBay. It is next to my Genuine Sea-Dweller (loos crown on the left). The crowns look identical to my eye under a 10X loupe. The loose crown also has a monobloc deisgn. Other than the polish, it looks very similar to the first picture on the Daytona. Please educate me...... :bangin:

@Justasgood: I have read the link you posted several times before but I still haven't found an answer to my question. I read it again and you posted on 12 Nov 2009 that "I won't sleep until I get a new in packacge(Un-opened) from Rolex 24-703 crown that is 1 piece and has this type of relief" The picture you posted has the shorter coronet that I associate with modern Rolex watches. Did you ever get a 703 with that coronet? @cib0rgman: The crown in your picture is indeed a 703. The coronet looks different than the pictures the OP posted in the original post. Perhaps I am just stressing over this... I am just trying to figure this out once and for all. Thanks to everyone for the help and pics!!!!

I have been trying to find a picture of a 703 crown with the modern style coronet but haven't been able to find one. I have seen 704's and their coronet looks like the ones the OP posted. I have also bought several new 703 crowns and their coronet has been the taller (vintage) version. I wonder if some people just have their nomenclature incorrect.

Thanks for the pic cib0rgman, but do you have a picture of the coronet on that crown? Thanks!

Couldn't these be 24-704 crowns and not 703's ? I have seen several sellers on eBay selling monobloc crowns with the shorter coronet as 703 crowns. I agree that all 703's should be crimped, but I haven't seen a 703 crown with that style coronet. If someone has a picture, I would love to see it.

Thanks guys. I am not sure that the subdials line up with the V72. I would probably want this one to be a budget version anyway. I took some measurements of the dial and the diameter is about 29.09mm and the subdials about about 7.5mm from the center. Thanks again!!!!

Hi Guys, I got this dial a few months a ago from David and it was supposed to fit a V72, but the dial feet were in the wrong place. David just said to keep the dial. I was thinking about trying it out since I like the dial but don't know what it fits. The dial feet look to be at 5 and 35. I tried in on an Alpha movement that I believe is a Sea-Gull ST19 and it didn't fit. I have an Asian 7750 but remember what it came out of. I am thinking it came out of a Panerai Daylight with the tri compax layout. It wouldn't fit on that movement either. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!!!!