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Hi Guys, i think I have pretty much decided to go with a 1570 on my GWSD project. i know it will take a lot longer to fund, but I think that I will enjoy it more in the end. I know that there have been some problems when it comes to some 1570 calendar rings. I don't know if that goes for all of the cases or just the Yuki cases. I am leaning towards the NDT case but might be persuaded to use the JAW case if it is more accurate for a GW. My question is how to tell what calendar ring the movement has if it is a movement only. I believe that the 1500 series movement is what I want and that the 1600 is too big. I just don't know how to tell. Does anyone have any measurements or pictures? Thanks!!!

Great score!!!! I don't think I will get that lucky

Thanks a lot. I haven't set a timeline yet for mine. Maybe I should do that first. Is your case stamped with that serial? Thanks again!!!!

Thanks guys!!! Do you know when they went to white? The dial I am possibly looking at is the rail dial off of eBay and was wondering what color would be accurate. Thanks!!!!

Hey Guys, This one should be pretty easy for someone to answer. What color date wheel should a GWSD 1665 have? I have seen some that look white but it is hard to tell in pictures. Thanks in advance!!!

Is it loose on the case or just loose when turning. If it is loose on the case that is one thing. If it is sloppy while turning but tight on the case, that is another. Lifting the prongs on the ratchet spring definitely helps but it is difficult to get to them.

Beautiful work Freddy!!!!

I wouldn't recommend doing it unless you absolutely have to. I have removed a few bezels from various watches and have a couple of tools for just that purpose. The bezel is so thick that they wouldn't work. I pretty much ruined mine trying to get it off. What I ended up doing was use a ton razor blades stacked on top of one another around the bezel until it started to come up. Once there was a big enough gap, I used a case knife to help out. I realized that the bezel it actually pressed onto the ring that it attached to the case by a wire. My outer bezel started to separate from the other ring. I took that off with no problem, but the ring underneath was bent in its removal. I am trying to get it to work again, but I may have to source a new bezel. I have heard that these are really hare to get off and they are. My good camera is down at the moment but I will try and get some pictures up in the next couple of days. The reason I wanted to take mine off was to tighten the action properly by bending up the ratchet ring and to also polish the bezel markers. Once it it off, you can press out the bezel markers and sand them down if you want and polish them up without taping the bezel. It is always a learning process for me Maybe someone with some success at doing it can help out. Best of luck!!!!

Great looking watch. I personally like the added character. This makes it look more like the tool watch it is. Wear it well!!!!!!

They all look really nice. Using the 72C really changes the style. I like both but the Daytona is more my style. I hope to complete mine someday

Thanks for the pictures and opinions guys!!! I am still on the fence with this one. I really like my 1680 but I wish that I had gone a step above and used a gen movement. That would have changed the price point drastically and taken longer, but I think that I would have been more happy in the end. That being said, I might just get the 1570 movement first. That way I am kind of stuck with what to do. About how much does a good 1570 go for? I saw a movement on timezone for about $1000 and have seen many 1500 series datejust's go for about that. I hate to cannibalize a good watch for a movement Also, out of the available cases, who makes the most accurate (Yuki, JAW, NDT)? Thanks again for the pictures and advice!!!

Thanks for the reply Ronin. I saw that rail dial you mention on eBay but the sharpness of the date window bothers me. NDT has an all white dial they say is a Mark I but it isn't a GW dial. I wish they made them since I like the quality. Does anyone have any pictures of Yuki's GW installed? The pictures on the site aren't very clear. I tried the silver date wheel from my puretime in my MBW 1680 and it did not line up. I found another overlay for that. I guess I will approach that step when I get there. When you guys start on a project, what do you normally get first. Do you buy the case first or dial, movement, etc...? I am just don't want to get into the project and wish I had gone a different route and be hosed. Thanks again!!!!!

Hi Guys, See all of those great 1665's the other has started another itch. I ordered one from puretime a few months ago but I am not really happy with it. The dial is the thing that bugs me the most. I am thinking that I would like to build a GWSD 1665. What exactly are my options as far as dials go. ETZ has GW dials but who knows what there status is right now. I looked at NDT but didn't see any. I would like to make it a good example with working HEV valve using a ETA 2846 movement. I may even invest in a 1570 and do it right. I am sorry for being so broad and open about this. I am just starting to think about it and what to check all of my option before I start. Any advice on a build of this sort would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any advice or opinions.

You guys are absolutely amazing!!!! Both in photography skills and watches!!!! I am truly jealous of all of your examples. But please keep them coming :thumbsupsmileyanim:

I wish that I could regulate all of my watches that way :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Hey MJ, I don't have any pictures that I can post but it sounds like the yoke may have come out of the clutch slot or one of the other parts has come disconnected. I have had this happen to me before and it is a real pain. You may try inserting the stem and wiggling it around to see if you can manipulate the parts back in place. If that doesn't work, you will probably have to take off the dial and hands and reset the keyless works. It shouldn't be too hard if you have a set of small screwdrivers and tweezers. ETA has taken down their technical document for the 2846 but the 2836-2 is very similar. You can find it at the link below. Just select meclaline from the drop down menu and then select 2836-2 for the movement. It may not be much help. If you want to take a picture and PM me, I will take a look at it. I think that I have a 2846 somewhere that I can take a picture of what it is supposed to look like. I might not be able to get to it today though. Maybe someone else will have what you are looking for. Best of luck!!!! https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabindex=3&tabid=28

Thanks guys for the opinions. I will look at that number at cousins and see if they have a similar listing in the States. Thanks again!!!!!

Okay Guys, I received the first bezel mentioned and I have to agree with Ubi. It seems to be a genuine but it is very worn down. It was absolutely filthy and the seller said it had been lying in a bag in a drawer. It clicks very smoothly when turing it. I took it apart and tried to get better pictures. I know that the bezel teeth didn't come out very clear at all, and I apologize. They are pretty worn. The insert snapped out and it is very thick like the replacement that I have. I also test fitted the new insert I have and it will snap in as well. I am not sure about the insert but the pearl doesn't glow. I don't know if that means it is tritium or luminova. How would I tell. Anyway, if anyone has any comments (not about the poor photography skills ) that would be great. If there is something you would like to see more clearly, I will try and capture it later. The other bezel looks so much better but I might just keep this one for later on down the road. You never know....Thanks again!!!! P.S. Does anyone know the gasket number to go under the retention ring? I can't seem to find it mentioned anywhere.

I just got home and I do have the catalog that was linked earlier. I also have the 2nd and 3rd service manuals that have detailed information on a lot of calibers (1520-1525, 3075-1385, 4030, 5035-5055, 3000, 2030, 3035-3055, 3135-3155-3175-3185). I also have a few other miscellaneous information booklets with information. The service guides are few good quality but also a lot of pages (probably as many as the other catalog). I am sure that there is more information out there . It sure would be great if we could get everything.

Thanks for weighing in BK! The references for both sellers are very good. The first gave me a 3 day return If it isn't genuine. I ended up getting both and will take better pictures when they arrive. Thanks!!!!

Freddy is 100% correct. The copies are not very good quality. It would be nice to ge an orginal copy to scan. I would be willing to chip in for one of those copies. If you are still interested in the copied version my offer still stands. With this great site, I am sure that we could pool together a great resource guide.

I think that I have the 300 page copied manual from the link. I would be willing to mail it to someone in the US if they wanted to scan it into a PDF (within a reasonable time). That would save some costs. I am out of town for the weekend but will double check when I get home.

Hey Chief, I have one of the movement parts copies at home. If you tell the movement you are looking for I can send you copies or take a picture. I don't have too many case parts but would also be interested as well. Thanks!!!! Hey Chief, I have one of the movement parts copies at home. If you tell the movement you are looking for I can send you copies or take a picture. I don't have too many case parts but would also be interested as well. Thanks!!!!

Hi Guys, Sorry for more questions, but this is another one that was offered. The person said it was from a M serial sub. The pictures aren't great again but the best I have. Any thoughts? Thanks again!!!!

Thanks for the information guys. The pearl in the pictures looked non gen to me but I feel better about it now. I will take better pictures when I get and decide if the wear is too much for this project. If nothing else, I can probably use part of it. Thanks again!!!!!