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Thanks Chief!!! I have to admit that I brushed the middle links on my rep GMT IIC and I prefer it that way. The scratches on the polished links just always bother me I may live with it for a while and see how I like it.

Thanks wiesn089!!!! It has certainly taken a long time to acquire the parts. The only things I am missing are the case and bracelet (after I get the movement in order). I love the SEL bracelet, but just don't know about the polished center links. I am thinking of brushing the entire bracelet. I have seen people do it on their GMT IIC's but haven't really seen one on a Daytona. Hope to post something soon!!!!

After playing with the movement for about an hour, I concluded it wasn't the minute wheel after all. I had replaced the yoke for sliding pinion (4030-240) to make it a two stem crown position instead of three. I kept the Zenith setting lever and date corrector lever. It seems that the little lever on the setting lever wasn't able to drive the wheels on the date corrector lever far enough into the setting wheel and setting minute wheel. I have the Rolex setting lever as well and am hoping that changing the intermediate setting wheel will help. I would like to keep this as a 2 position crown than 3 (as per gen). But it is like The Zigmeister said...you change one part and it affects 3 others. Thanks again for the help and tips!!!! Will keep you posted.......

@The Zigmeister Thanks again for the help! I did grease the center wheel post with D5. I have some K22 and PML stem grease, and I will give those a shot to see if that helps smooth it out.. I did have to broach the cannon pinion a little to fit. I ran a smoothing broach through it, but perhaps there is a burr causing the rough feeling. I will look the again as well. @freddy333 I have never heard of PML 163 or 80. I just looked at Jules borel's site and they say they are the same. I thought that PML was made by Nye and wasn't aware there were different kinds of PML. Is PML 163 a liquid oil? Thanks!!!

Thanks for the reply The Zigmeister and insight. I am doing the work myself and haven't had too much of a bad time yet. I actually replaced the center wheel with a Rolex center wheel. I did it for 2 reasons. The first was that the Rolex chronograph wheel would not fit through the Zenith center wheel. I opened up the Zenith wheel enough to let it through but was not happy with the end product. The Rolex wheel has the same pivots sizes so it fit in the plate with no adjustment needed. It also has the same number of teeth on the wheel and pinion, and the tooth pitch are the same as well. The second reason was the one you mentioned. The Rolex cannon pinion would not fit on the Zenith center wheel without some major broaching or turning down of the center wheel as you mentioned. I have the watch running on my bench and it is running like a champ. I have placed the Rolex cannon pinion next to the Zentih minute wheel and the Zenith cannon pinion next to the minute wheel, and there does seem to be some differences in the amount of play in the teeth. I will see if I can get a good enough picture to tell. I trust your opinion and experience The Zigmeister. If I have already replaced the center wheel and cannon pinion, is it possible that it is the minute wheel? Thanks!!!!!!

Thanks Guys! Here is a picture of the Rolex minute wheel (left) next to the Zenith counterpart (right). I have all of the parts that Ubi listed (and more). I was going to post a list eventually but wanted to have it completed. I have the cannon pinion mounted but the time setting is a little rough. I think that it is the Rolex cannon pinion meshing with the Zenith minute wheel. I think that the teeth on the Zenith wheel are a little thinner and the setting just isn't smooth. What do your eyes see? Does anyone know where I might be able to pick up a Rolex minute wheel? My sources have run out and I am getting pretty desperate. Thanks again!!!!!

Hi Guys, I was hoping that someone on the board could tell me if the Rolex 4030 minute wheel and the Zenith 400 minute wheel are actually the same. I am trying desperately to find out and am running out of resources. Thanks in advance for any help!!!!!!!

Don't know what kind of project you have in mind but Otto Frei sells a good version. I am sure you could get a set from DW as well. How cheap are we talking?

I did a good bit of research in pushers for my 16520 project. Here is the information that I found. The last of the 6263 pushers were indeed 24-P302. The 16520 uses 24-P402 and the latest 116520 uses 24-P502. I don't know what the differences are between the 3 but that is what Rolex is putting on them. If you are trying to get a set of genuine 402's or 502's, get ready to spend about $500 for a new set. I have seen a set of both come up for sale recently and that was the asking price.

Looks great Cats!!!! The Zigmeister should be getting mine soon. Can't wait to see more pictures!!!!!!

Beautiful job!!!!!! I truly love the 1680!!!!!! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Hey Cats, I have bought several Omega parts from that seller and have always been pleased. I bought a T19 crystal from him about a year ago and wasn't as pleased. The crystal didn't come in any sort of Rolex packaging and the crystal didn't fit my MBW case. I can't say that the crystal was aftermarket, but I can't say it was genuine either. I can say that I bought another crystal sealed and it fit perfectly. If I had to do it again, I would pass. Just my experience. Maybe someone can shed some light too.

Could you please elaborate? If they do put one out, does it have a name? I don't recall seeing one. Thanks!

Thanks for the info guys. i looked at watchlume, and they don't seem to have a white lume like C1. I also looked at the RCTritec site and didn't see where to order it from them. Maybe I missed it on their site. Thanks again!!!

Email sent. Please let me know what you have left. Thanks!!!!

I was hoping someone could tell me where I could buy some C1 superluminova in the US. I need some white luminous powder and can't find anything other that AF or Bergeon. Thanks!!!!!

This is a pretty simple qustion. I was wondering if Rolex puts out a dial and hand guide like they do for their cases and movements. Thanks!!!!!

Can't wait to see more!!!! Do you know if eta hands will fit this movement? I haven't been able to find much out about it.

Does the rotor spin when you wind the watch? Often times, the pawl winding wheels are improperly oiled. More times than not, they are over oiled causing them to stick while manual winding. This causes them to rotate the rotor (heavier winding) rather than slip on themselves. It does sound like there is some sort of keyless work issue though. Definitely have your watchmaker have a look at it if you can. Best if luck!!!!

There is a single one on VRM now: http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1296241740/FS-+24+P+-+302+Daytona+Pusher+-+NOS

Sorry to hear that.

I looked in my Tudor references but couldn't find them listed. I am glad Ubi knew the answer. There are a pair of 24-P302-0 on VRM right now ($650 a pair). Expensive, but worth it for the correct project. http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1296155852/FS-+24+P502+Daytona+Pusher%2C++24+P+302+Daytona+Pusher%2C+8+mm+BC+%26quot%3Bcrown+and+tube%26quot%3B%2C+NOS%21%21

Hi Guys, I have always been in love with the Pepsi GMT Master. I bought a ceramic GMT Master last year but I have never been that crazy about it. It is a little too flashy for me to be a tool watch, so I brushed the mid-links on the bracelet. Even after that, there is just too much about it that bothers me. I thought about saving up and buying a gen 16710, but building them is so much more rewarding and fun (most of the time ) BK's transformer immediately jumped into my mind as it would be a great starting place, but they are getting hard to find. The next one that interested me would be a 1675. I don't really know much about these watches but have been doing a lot of reading in recent days. I have also seen some great builds of these watches recently. I would probably like to keep this one on the lower side of the build cost scale if possible also. Here is what I was thinking of doing: Case: Josh's 1655 Case Bezel and Retaining Ring: Wholesale Outlet Insert: Gen Dial: Gen or Rep (any ideas of a good rep?) Hands: Clark Tudor (GMT???) Crown and Tube: Gen Crystal: Clarks 25-116 Bracelet: ??? Movement: Converted 2846 DW Overlay: ??? I know that the case will require some modifications, but is there anything that can be done about the caseback? The pictures on Josh's site show a domed caseback and the pictures I have seen of the 1675 show a stepped caseback. Is there a more accurate caseback that can be used? I also don't know about using a gen dial. I have never snipped the dial feet off one and am not sure how it would be secured to the movement. I also don't know how well an overlay will work with a gen dial. I have read that Clark's Tudor hands for an ETA movement will work but don't know what to do for the GMT hand. As you can see, there are a lot of questions that need to be answered. I am just trying to get an idea of how things should proceed. If there is any advice you could give or if there is a thread I missed discussing some of this (I did search a good bit), that would be great. I am also in no real hurry since I have a 16520 currently in the process of building and an Omega SM300 after that. Thank you in advance for any help!!!!!

What a beautiful build!!!! Love the way the hands turned out!!!! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

This is the only one that has turned out decent pictures. I am hoping that 2011 will let me get my 16520 finished. It has proven to be an expensive project, but worth the wait (so far). Franken 1665