kbh

Congrats! Before you know it you'll be servicing movements.

Here's a fairly easy way to fix the problem without taking the whole watch apart.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0b83l-1DmlQ

Also, you could just send that picture to a couple of the trusted dealers. I'm sure it's available from any of the dealers. The DJ's are all pretty decent reps but the better quality are almost always the Swiss or ETA clone models with sapphire glass.

Should be DG3804B. Senility is setting in..................

I took the original CHS ETA2836 out of my GMTIIC and replaced it with a DG3046b, and then later put in a ETA 2893 movement without any particular problem. Just have to use the correct hand set.

 

Then, as KBH highlighted, the Novodiac's in the clones use the FHF Novodiac's NOT ETA's version as is easily seen in his pictures.  If there is only one slot for the spring, it's an FHF version and an Asian Clone.  http://www.ofrei.com/page1438.html

 

I may be wrong on this but I read not too long ago that Novadiac and Etachoc are the same thing, only that ETA now owns the company that makes them and has officially renamed that system Etachoc.

The Chinese clones do not use Etachoc shock absorbers. The "ETA" choc comes from ETA, as in Swiss for "ETA shock".

Plus, back in 2006 there were actually a lot more ETA movements and a whole LOT less clones.

I think I'd have to disagree with Matt based on the jewel keeper and overall perfect stampings. I see nothing in particular to make it an Asian clone.

Asian Clone:

ETA:

Divers where I live aren't "licensed", they're certified.

Made me think: Wonder what Luthier's up to lately?

16000 case equivalent to 16013 case?

Case is the same. The 13 represents a two tone model is all.

 

Whats the story / origin of these watches?

The origin is a most likely a second rate watch factory located probably in Ghuanzhou China or Chinatown, New York.

I've got a 5 year old Acetimer  that winds 4 and stores 5 more. It's super quiet, reliable, and everyone says that Anthony (the owner) is excellent on after sale service. He was very quick and helpful explaining to me how to tighten the movements when they started running a little too loose.

Flat 4 is from an older Sub with lugholes. No idea what year they changed them.

I've had lots of Sub and SD reps that have all tested well enough for swimming and even skin diving. The BP SD is a great watch for the price and with silicone greasing of the case back and stem/tube it's almost guaranteed to be fine. As always though, it's best to have it tested if you have a local watch maker that will do it. When most replica dive watches leak, the most common area is the crystal gasket.

 

Was wondering if a bit of glue/epoxy on the stem before pressing or screwing down might do the job if the crystal and back are down tight enough.

Well, I'm sorry but that's got to be the dumbest statement of the day.

If you're going by the quality, left is gen. The whole printing on the right is centered off to the right side of the dial. It's quite obvious. Also the sunburst effect is much better, as is the shape of the coronet.

With that said, you'll probably tell us left is gen.

So, your real job is a parking attendant in a high end condominium.

I read another post about problems with TC's movement and winding caused by the inner o-rings in the tube being too tight. Sorry, not sure which forum it was on but it sounds quite similar to your problem other than the crown slipping in the winding position. Of course this only relates to you if your movement is in one of TC's Subs.

I tried replacing and found the gen Rolex coronet doesn't have the two small mounting pins in the same plane as the dial's holes. One's horizontal and the other is vertical holes. Seemed like way too much potential dial damage for very little improvement.

I just made this from one of Mymanmatt's DD cases and a eBay watch that I bought for the movement. Glad I kept it.

Here's a  picture I stole from Mahler a while back. It's a 7750 but they are all pretty much the same.

Those timegrapher shots are almost useless other than seeing that the amplitude and beat error which are very good on that movement. The actual seconds per day is highly correlated to how much tension is on the main spring and what position the watch is in.

With 10 winds or a good shake it could be minus 150 s/d. With another 10 winds it could be minus 50 s/d. Fully wound it could be plus 20 s/d. Also the actual timing can vary greatly depending on whether the watch is face up, face down, crown up, or crown down. It's best to wear it for a week or two and get an average of how much fast or slow it's running on your wrist. Then adjust the movement to your wearing habits. But no matter what, it'll never be close to a quartz. And these movements are the bottom of the barrel as far as quality so don't expect COSC standards.

Sorry, I thought you were asking about the manufacturer, not the seller.

8 years ago I don't think anyone gave actual names to different factories. Plus there has to be hundreds, if not thousands, of mini rep factories (aka bedrooms, kitchen tables, closets, etc) with Rolex DJ DD assemblers. The most popular reps ever made, by the millions. It would surely be impossible to track down the maker.