looseends

I'm more on ciborg's side, if it were more serious as described by dbane I think I would have seen it sooner. It may actually be moisture that has always been in there and it just got hot enough inside but cool enough outside to condense. This is the first time and not under unusual circumstances. However, it is pretty clear now just sitting open crown in the shade on my desk. I will try to sun method first, and opt for "surgery" per dbane if it doesn't seem to be resolved. I just hate to crack 'em open, as even if I manage to get it apart and back together, I can scratch the hell out of 'em (I have the caseback opener, and tried the rubber ball, etc, I'm just no good with precise work!). Also for Zeal, the face and/or bezel were never properly aligned, so it is not a masterwork of replication let alone watchmaking to be sure. Could be the crystal.

Haven't posted in a minute, so I'd like to share today's tragedy. While giving a presentation, I noticed my Rollie has fogged over... on the inside! This is a few hours later with the crown open... I'm sure my wrist was hot and sweaty, but I've done this before without the same result. Not sure how moisture would have built up, and certainly the body heat was not an unusual level. Never gotten it wet and certainly never submerged it, as of course our reps are notoriously not water-proof. Must be a serious gap in the case I'm guessing, and that ol' moisture seeped in today! You could barely see the hands earlier. I will put it in a ziplock with a desiccant if I have any, or I guess rice supposedly works? This does not bode well for future performance. It has always lagged on a winder unlike a Deepsea right next to it. Maybe it's GMT shopping time again.

Heh, I had one of these, a real cheapie I bought to try out a vendor and see what the PVD looked like. Like $40 and you know he had it marked up. The PVD was okay, but everything about the movement, dial, bezel, datewheel... well you name it, was awful. But it worked so I used it during yard work. One day I realized it was pretty dirty... and threw it out.

An additiction is an addiction. I'd express your concern, that you can't tell him what to do with his money, but he seems to be going overboard. Try to reason with him that even though buying a rep is fun/pleasureable, to do it repeatedly takes the pleasure out of it, that in repeating/overdoing the pleasure, it becomes pain - a rep purchase is no longer as satisfying, and the expense becomes an actual financial burden. I'd say I'm addicted, I'd love to just buy buy buy, I only have about 6 reps bought over a couple years, but I've definitely wasted my money on a couple because I just had to have it. So I changed the process for myself and thought about the expense, and really what would it be like to actually have such and such a watch in my possession. Personally I look at a bunch of reps and really contemplate which one I would like to own, even though there are tons I'd like to just have. The process becomes more fun, examining watches, judging quality, checking out opinions/reviews, deciding what I really want and would wear on a regular basis. It's easy when you remember reps never quite live up to the real thing once you've bought it, and after the purchase you're pretty much done/out of luck as quality/life (even shipping) is a crapshoot (even though reps can be quite awesome, and obviously sellable/fixable). Just be a friend. Friends look out for each other.

Just over three years ago, I bought the Newbie LV from Andrew - ROLBEG002B. I did some research on appearance, and it was actually the best looking rep in my opinion, the key points for me being the green of the bezel, hard to tell in anyone's photos but an important characteristic, and the number font on the bezel (width, placement). Now on the Newbie, the rehaut is totally wokky, and the Asian 21J only beats out 21600, but all the $200-400 versions had their own trade-offs on appearance. So I thought why not try out the cheap one... and it has been my longest lasting and favorite rep, the daily beater. A couple people I've met who recognize watches have complimented me on it, so it passes muster as 5-6 feet away - I think even if I handed it to them, unless they owned an LV they wouldn't know. Runs a little fast, but runs like a champ, the lume is still kicking in, but only for a couple minutes (same as when it was new). The lume is the most obvious tell. But overall, maybe I got lucky, but I've had ETA movements in expensive reps crap out after a couple years, or spent the money trying to find the perfect Rolex rep (doesn't exist). So accepting the flaws of a rep are going to exist, and going contrary to the idea that you get what you pay for, I recommend trying this one if you're in the market for an LV. http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=221&products_id=1700

Thanks guys. So actually in my research, once I had a starting point, it looks like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line break is gen: ...and lots more examples where those came from. Only the hands, I can't seem to find an example of those, also the dial is way too pristine (and rather 'flat' looking, even considering the lousy capture) which is what stood out to me at first. I am leaning towards prop/replica, but the prop master certainly new what he was re-creating. Thanks again, I learned a whole lot about Rolex and Bubblebacks today.

I am not well versed in classic Rolex, so I'm wondering is this is authentic or fantasy? Seconds at 6? Roman and Arabic numerals? Some background for those unfamiliar with 'Chuck' - basically he was an average, yet intelligent, guy who ends up with a CIA computer in his brain known as the 'Intersect.' We eventually learn [spoilers!] that his father designed the original Intersect, and it eventually has debilitating effects. This season, Chuck's father designs a 'Governor' in the form of the timepiece above, which regulates the Intersect to prevent Chuck from losing his mind.

My opinion, if you're not going to go for the WM9 v2, is to not spend $$ on the "Ultimate" or "Perfect" versions either. I'd recommend the newb (link below), the rehaut verges on ridiculous and the date mag is too far right, but it's an excellent rep for the $ - and a good introduction to reps. So you'll see if you like the feel and the trade-off from gen. Any rep is never the "real thing" so if you get hung up on details forget reps. But you can find a nice watch in the style you like for a great price. I personally love my Sub LV Asian newb and Sub Summer Blue ETA 2836, they're the best value in reps - in my opinion. I keep thinking about getting this standard black Sub newb... but with two others already I have held off. http://www.tt88time.com/index.php?main_pag...roducts_id=1699 Trusty is great.

Yeah, I bought this on a lark to see what it was like. I wear it as a beater only, on the rare occasion there's physical labor involved. The dial is pretty bad. I still think about getting a Pro-Hunter.

King illegal forest to pig wild kill in it a is!

Gold plating too yellow/bracelet mismatch Sub par dial printing Crown too small Buy from a reputable dealer next time dummy!

Beautiful! A watch that can fool both Rolex and Omega owners at once! I hate these sort of shameless ripoffs, but I guess it sells watches. Trying to be objective, I find that watch kind of unrefined, very exaggerated features in and of itself. Ultimately I would rather spend less money on a Noobmariner that get that Invicta.

There's still a detectable beat at 28800, very small but visible close up. From about a foot or so back, it will look smooth. A 21600 will have a more obvious beat, and from 1 foot away you can still see it. There's a definite audible difference between a 28800 and 21600, but I don't know how to describe that unless you have a watch to compare. I have a couple ETA 2836-2s, and there's an obvious difference between those and one Asian 21J 21600 I have. Now I can compare by sound. 28800 is much more enjoyable. But really you'd have to open it up and compare the movement to images to know exactly what movement you have.

Welcome - yeah, look at the known "collectors" i.e. dealers, then search for reviews - there's a lot about this rep. You can definitely find this two tone (TT) a little bit cheaper (a little) with ETA movement. Asia movements will be about $100 less. Again, search for reviews on the reliability/quality of these reps and movements. Also, gold gets into a whole different discussion as well. Though I don't think this particular rep has many purchase options other than where you get it. I have bought from Angus, Josh, and Andrew (and another 'unauthorized' who will go unnamed) on separate occasions for different reps, depending on the strengths and weaknesses of what they offer. All have delivered as represented. Good luck, and research! I jumped into my first rep a little too fast, everything worked out, but I didn't make the right choice for myself. Take your time.

Hm, can't edit my post. Threw this together:

The bezel font is thinner - very close to gen. The original IIc numbers are very thick, discernible to the naked eye.

I think the Noob Sub has the highest happiness:price ratio. Wear it in good health.

On Amazon, I like FindingKing.

Well, there are several reliable places to buy replicas - but "best" is arguable, and up to what those dealers stock - say one may have better Rolex replicas, whereas another may have great Brietlings, but cheapo Rolex. In other words, the purchase may be smooth, but you're going to get what you ordered. The search function is your friend, so that you can find reviews of the rep you're looking for, plus what dealer stocks the best version of that particular rep, vs. the dealers who stock less accurate versions. For example, off the top of my head, right now you could buy three different versions of the older style Rolex GMT II - each has +s and -s, depending on whether you want accuracy out of the box, affordability, or potential to mod into a near identical rep. And that's without mentioning different movements that you could end up with inside those reps, Asian, Asian Clone, ETA... So I don't think anyone here can provide a definitive answer, i.e. tell you which dealer to go to over another - that's for you to decide, there's tons of info here. I know, you want the simple answer... well, it doesn't seem to exist in this hobby. Good luck, the biggest step was finding this board.

Opening it up is next, I'm an amateur (Nervous about any kind of opening or manual winding as such.) so I figured I couldn't do much more than know if the rotor looked okay (or obvious dirt, but that would be unlikely). It sounds the same as always - when "stuck" you can still hear it just the same. Secondhand isn't stuck, separate from the minute hand the several times it stopped, and different times of day as well. I'll probably go the service route if the "wind and wait" doesn't provide good feedback. Just thought someone might recommend "replace" rather than put $ in service. Good to hear service sounds like the solution, even though it's replaceable, I'm very attached.

Thanks Freddy, will try. Generally reliable or not, it would appear to me that I have the exception for the 2836-2s (it is a classic GMTII). It will stop while wearing it, and otherwise it does sit on a winder where it will also stop - essentially the same thing I've been doing for months and it was running flawlessly. But now it randomly stops, and does not start even with flicks of the wrist, or manual winding. A good smack into the palm of the hand is the only remedy (admittedly a bad idea, but kind of an all else failed solution, which works). I asked The Zigmeister a while ago about service in general, but he was unwilling as he described the modified 2836-2 (not a GMT movement made to run GMT) as trouble to service - even though reliable to run. I believe his advice was run it until dead. So it's virtually dead, just after months instead of years. FYI I have a ExpII with the exact same movement, appox same amount of wrist time, same winder... it' still going like a champ. I am definitely having a problem with this particular watch. Just looking for the good ol' free advice.

Ack! My first rep, bought several months ago, a GMT Master Pepsi, is now on the fritz. About once a day, the movement will freeze/get stuck, and only a nice hard jostle will get it ticking again (probably not good overall, but not ticking is not ticking). It's not out of charge, it sits on a winder and still stops, or at random while wearing it. So, I know from resident experts like By-Tor and The Zigmeister, the modified 2836-2 for running the GMT is probably a drop-dead movement, once it's gone, there's not much hope for it. When first I learned of this, I started looking at movement swapping, namely for this watch a 2893 (true GMT), and even found someone selling hands on eBay, but haven't purchased anything yet. I'm looking for advice - find someone to service the existing movement (and who would that be? would anyone here touch it? If I find a rep friendly local watchsmith, would it matter, i.e. could they get it going anyway?); or should I seek someone to swap the movement (again, who? Or shall I attempt myself as a learning project, I think Otto Frei will sell ETA movements?); or... is it just not worth it, should I buy an entire replacement, in hopes it will have a 2836 that will last a few good years (and even then, what do I do in a few years?) Wow, tons of questions. Any advice is appreciated, I love my GMT! Thanks guys.

I have this model, from Angus. It's a great understated watch. I consider it to be dressier than my GMT - more streamlined design, engraved hour markers, white dial - versus the blue/red, printed bezel, black dial of the GMT. But they both dress up/down well. Wear it in good health.

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