CJT74

Yeah I saw that they were in China so I figured it might be an asian movement. Would I need to remove the day disk or can I leave it in place and have the dial covering it? I really don't want to mess with that area of the movement again. I think I just want to buy a new movement instead of trying to have this one repaired. I intend to stay with the same type of hande but I will need a new set.

Well the whole problem started with the stem not clicking into place. It would not stay in. I figured that I pushed the little release to hard and damaged the retaining mechanism. So being the mechanical guy I am I started to go into it. I removed the date disk to access the area where the stem retainer is. I took that apart and I just can't seem to get it back together properly. I did get it together and it appeared to be correct but the stem still wouldn't lock in. Then to make things worse I messed up the date wheel mechanism. A watchmaker I am not. I can remove and install a movement, dial and hands but that about it as far as the inside goes. On top of that I messed up the minuite hand so I'm in a pickle now. At the very least I need a movement and a handset. Looks like I found a couple of 2836 movements. Will this one work the same? it has a day disk too. I guess it will just be covered up so it won't matter right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ETA-2836-2-DAY-DATE-25...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Was working on a project and messed up the movement. Now I need another one quick. I see on the bay plenty of 2824-2 movements and they look the same to my eyes. Can a 2824 be used in a place where a 2836 once lived?

wow very nice ladies YM.

My TT started off as an MBK rep. It now has a gen dial and 3035 movement in it, a gen 18K crown, an aftermarket solid 18K/SS bracelet and an aftermarket 18K (gen spec) bezel.

Opening the case of a Rolex Oyster gen or rep is extremely easy. Just get a $40.00 opening tool from the bay. I have opened mine (gen and rep) multiple times just to check things out. Hell I had the rep open and completely apart many times as I was building it. A little silicone based oil on the o-ring ensures a good seal. Just put little of the oil on your pinky finger and rub it on the o-ring.

Thanks for the welcome and the raffel ticket. Maybe I'll win the watch. LOL

I also bought my band from watchbandman50. I got the solid 18K and paid $434.00 if I remember correctly. I also got the solid 18K bezel from his other store which is wholesaleoutlet. Then I got a gen 18K crown from Clark watch parts. Now all the gold is real and will last. Ofcourse I didn't stop there. I bought a gen movement, dial and hands too. The only rep parts left is the case, crystal and clasp.

Well the order was placed on March 18th and payment was sent instantly. Then on marsh 22nd I get an email from Seri saying that I need to make payment. I email him back with the paypal transaction number and he corrects the problem. I emailed Chris the next day to ask the status and no reply. I guess it has been only 2 weeks, it felt like longer.

I ordered a V3 case from Eurotimes weeks ago and have not heard anything from them. The bill has been paid. I emailed them a few days ago for a status update but no replies. Is it normal to wait so long before recieving the order?

Duhh....If that upgrade button was a snake it would have bit me. Thanks

Interesting post on the pressure testing. I just completed my franken sub and I thought I better make sure its water proof sinse it has a $1500.00 movement in it and I am on the boat a lot and I wear it swimming. All I did was remove the movement and close it back up. Then I tied a string to it and lowered the empty case into the deep end of the pool and left it over night over night. No leaks. Now I know the results could be different if I were scuba diving but I haven't dove in 12 years and don't plan to. But if I do I will just wear my gen 14060. But for what I do which is light swimming I am pretty confident that a leak test at 8 feet deep for 24 hours is good enough.

Well I think its about time to throw a little money to the forum. I have gained a wealth of knoledge not only about reps but about gen Rollies as well, including the one I had before coming here. I started off with an MBK TT rep last September that I got from a fellow member and after swapping parts around a few times I now have an almost all gen TT sub. I guess its called a franken sub. About the only thing that isn't gen is the case and bracelet. I'm sure over time I will find those too. So now I have quite a few parts laying around, some I may want to sell here some I may not. You never know what project is next. I just bought another rep from a fellow member. This is an LV sub I plan to give to an old friend. Him and my wife are the only people that know my TT started off as a rep. He was impressed with the quality so I think the LV will be a nice gift. So how do I donate to become a supporting member and is there a customary minimum?

Thanks, I am really enjoying it. For some reason it even feels better. I guess its the weight. There is a signifigant difference in weight between the ETA and 3035 movements. Having all solid 18K gold adds quite a bit as well. The one thing that I noticed a lot was the sound the rotor makes in a rep. If you twist the watch next to your ear you can hear that weight rotating. That would be the easiest way to tell a rep from a gen even if the rep is modded absolutly perfect. The gen Rolex movements make no noise. Also the clicking of the second hand has a different sound. All very insignifigant differences I know and only someone that knows reps very well and had the watch in their hand would be able to tell. That being said I really think those ETA movements keep very good time and the ticking hand is very accurate to a gen. One of my friends that is a Rolex nut held the rep watch in his hand and thought nothing of it. After this project I have quite a bit of parts. I am debating to sell them or keep them for a future rep project. I may want to build a SS sub date for a buddy. This buddy and my wife are the only ones that know I bought a rep. Now this buddy is the only one that knows how much I spent on it. LOL I have two perfectly working ETA 2832 movements with blue dials plus a couple of cases and various bracelet parts and crowns. I may keep one movement and sell one here and contribute the entire procedes to this site. What is an ETA with blue sub dial and hands worth?

I know the clasp should really be solid SS but its not uncommon for people to have upgraded the clasp or put on an aftermarket band. I'm not really looking for an identical 16808 TT sub that can be looked over with a magnifying glass. I think its close enough for me even with the white wheel. If anyone ever questions it a look inside the case will be all it takes.

Here are a couple of quick shots of my gen 14060. Sorry my picture taking skills are something to be desired. Plus my little camera isn't the best.

Great so it looks like all I need is that champaign date wheel and I'm there. Damit....back to the bay.

Nice. I have a gen 14060. I wish I could take real good macro pics for comparison. Looks good from here though.

One other thing about these cases. I'm not sure if its common on gen TT subs, maybe it is but I never noticed it. The bezel seems to hang over the edge of the case a little to much. Is this normal? Looking at my gen 14060 the bezel hangs over but not quite this much.

Damn.....I was hoping to not take this thing apart again to change the wheel. And I really like the white date wheel. But it is what it is. You guys think the date wheel from a gen ETA movement will work on this 3035? I already paid for the V3 case so its coming. I'll wait until then to mess with the wheel this way I can kill 2 birds at once.

I have a 14060 but it doesn't have a 3035 movement. Question though....why do you want ot make the watch a no date?

Yes freddy I know that and I was wondering myself. But I just got done looking at a bunch of TT subs circa 1977-1999 on the bay and many of them have the white wheel and open 6s and 9s. Some were 16808 and some were 16613. It looks like the champaign wheel came out sometime after 1999. Man this thing holds good time. The time on my computer just hit 12:00 am then I looked at the watch and just as the second hand lined up with the min hand and hour hand at the 12 the date clicked. Then again the ETA movement was pretty good too.

Thanks! The whole date wheel color thing got me thinking so I did some research and found these on the bay. The first one defintaly has the white date wheel and the same font as mine, I can tell by the 4. So I guess it is accurate as I was going for a late 90s to 2000 model. http://cgi.ebay.com/ROLEX-SUBMARINER-MENS-...%3A1%7C294%3A50 This one actually looks exactly like my watch, it has a 3035 caliber and all. http://cgi.ebay.com/ROLEX-SUBMARINER-18K-S...%3A1%7C294%3A50

As far as I know yes. The 3035 movement was made until 1990 I believe and the "no lug holes" started around 2002. That is the original date wheel that came on the movement. Though for it to look totally correct on the outside it should probably have the chanpaign date wheel. Thats no big deal to change if it really throws the watch off. But I actually like the white wheel, its very easy to see and read. When I bought this movement I meant to buy the 3135 but I jumped the gun and got the 3035. The only real difference is the date wheel color and font. Plus the crown is turned CCW to move the hands CW. No biggie.

I have had my gen 14060 for about 3 years and it keeps perfect time. If there is a descrepancy I don't notice it. It never stops because I am either wearing it or its in a winder box. That being said my rep with an ETA movement also keeps very good time.