alligoat

The 93250 is the bracelet for the 16610 Submariner. It replaced the 93150 (with 501 B endpieces) in the early 2000's before lugholes disappeared. Lugholes went away around 2004. Sometime in the last couple of years, they stopped marking the bracelet. Various 93250's can be tough to attach to various Subs due to the location of the springbar holes on the case which varies from watch to watch- noob, CN, WM9, euro/MBW, etc. http://www.14270.com/spec-rolex.htm lists bracelets, but there are errors. The bracelet for the late SD is 93260, earlier ones were 93160- both w/ attached end pieces. 1665 SD took a 9315/93150 with 285/580/585 endpieces. As is the case with Rolex, variations do occur. Another site is http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/exs...aceletchart.jpg Once again there are errors, but it is a start.

ETA stem will fit a Rolex crown. Building a Frankenjust runs $400 and up depending on what you spend on parts. Cases from roling on ebay with a dial run around $200+, eta movement, tudor hands like from nostalgia 2000, crown, bracelet. The case has the crystal and case tube generally, but both are fairly cheap if you have to buy them. If you go with all gen parts, except the eta and hands, it could easily run you $800-1000.

It would make sense for the noob to go to the better crown assembly, but I don't know, since all of my noobs are two years old- and two of them heve gen crowns and tubes. The new crown and tube on the SD, WM9 and Euromariner are copies of the gen. You can swap out a gen crown and it will fit the rep tube on those three models. But this is the 24-703 assembly- which is a 25+ year old assembly- c. 1980.

Rolex has a new crown assembly out- the 24-704-0 and tube, 24-7040-0. Seen it listed for the SD and late model Daytonas. Can't tell you anything more about it. It's not on the sub which is still a 16610 model w/ the 24-703-0 asssembly AFAIK. Some day Rolex will update the sub to a 116610, I would think, but don't even know about that at this point. Also, with the noob being over two years old, I don't know if the crown has been improved on the later models. BKLM went to the Noob factory and they devised a more correct crown and new tube which he has been putting on his BK mariners for a while- don't know if the factory ever made that improvement themselves.

Old DJ cases are 36mm. I thought new cases were 37mm- maybe even 38mm- this would be the series 116200. Here's a link from Josh's site: http://www.jpc8118.com/rdjms10092-turn-gra...8362-p-986.html If it's a mm larger, no one will ever notice. I have found that rep DJ's aren't typically the same size as gens- about 1mm bigger- esp. in the dial and case. But other than that, they are pretty good reps by and large. Dial print might not be on par w/ Rolex, but that would be examining it under a 10x loupe. Red date font, well I can't remember anyone here ever really delving into it. I just look at it as a good watch to enjoy- a decent rep at a fair price- your biggest worry these days is if it will have a gen ETA, or a copy, cause there's probably not a whole lot you can do about it in the long run except send the copy back and keep hassling the dealer- and is it really worth it. Luckily my one copy eta has worked flawlessly for two years, but that's not always the case.

Beautiful job, dluddy. Everything is perfect, except it's too new! Let's see, it was kept in a safe by an old eccentric for 45 years and you bought it at an estate sale- that could be your story. Or you give it to Nanuq for aging.... On second thought, maybe you just wear it for ten years and let it age gracefully. Very nice- I especially like the gilt hands and dial.

I don't know if you can build a 16013 with stilty's movement ring and a 2824-2. I built my 16013 (16014, 16030 are all the same) with a 2836-2. You cut off the dial feet on the gen Rolex dial and glue the dial to the movement ring and the movt ring to the movement. I used a cheap plastic spacer ring to keep everything centered and then attached the case clamps. Stem alignment was perfect w/ the 2836, I had first tried the 2824, but the stem was too high. The 16200 series of cases for the 3135 movement, on the other hand, will work with the 2824-2 movement.

I agree with Chefcook on everything. The dial for a 16660 and a 16600 will be the same- the later ones with the white gold surrounds around the markers- dial feet are in the same place for a 3035 (16660) and 3135 (16600) movement. Of course, Rolex used the Tritium dials until around 2000. You might be able to find a Sea-Dweller dial on the bay, but I'd figure $200-500 for one- I can't recall seeing one recently.

Thanks for the update, Freddy. I haven't tried him yet, but thinking that Ziggy was probably backed up, I was looking for another option. Vaccum has been slow to respond, also.

What about buying another tritium dial on ebay- around $100-150, and have it relumed by Ziggy (or Vaccum, or Everestwatchworks) and a new set of hands from Clark's for around $20- they will have decent lume, but maybe you get those relumed also so they'll match. Have your local watchsmith install them and you keep the old original hands and dial for later. That way you've got your lume for a couple of hundred dollars or so and you can put the original dial and hands on if you decide to sell the watch. I bought a 16800 gen this month- same deal, good price on ebay, wanted a gen beater. Tritium dial w/ white gold surrounds, 8.1m SN, circa 1983. Come to find out the dial and hands still glow fairly well, so now I'm thinking they were a late 90's replacement set. I read the other day on TZ that matte dials were still used into the 8 million SN's. And all I was doing was buying a beater. Of course, I'm happy with the dial and hands and will just leave them as they are.

Those DM's threw me for a loop, Bobby! They weren't in the first currency conversion site I went to and the second site gave me a rate and told me it wasn't legal currency anymore! But 5000DM would be around $3300USD. Not bad for 10 years ago. Aftermarket gold cases and bracelets would run around $5000 these days, but I've not seen the aftermarket Submariner case in 18K, just the Day-Date/Datejust case. It's cool that you were able to use the 2824-2 in there. I've always maintained that it should work in place of a 3135 since it works in the 16200 series Datejust cases.

I'm interested, avitt. Someday I'll get around to building my V72 6238 and I'm planning on using a DW case. I just have to finish one more 16610 (w/ a relumed Comex dial) first, or at least that's my story at the present time.

Very nice Omega. Gold watches can look awfully good and you did a good job on that one.

Sorry to hear about your experience. But at least you're here now and can find out about the reputable dealers we have here. The pics of the Submariners on their website are of gens- that's the first giveaway that something is amiss- no one's gonna send you a gen!

LOL, a clone of perfect clones. The last pic shows the movement and a shot between the lugs- last three digits of the SN are 117- that's the SSD- can't remember, was it Z539117...

Yep, in the past, a few years ago, I got Paul to send me a dial, but I bought a watch at the same time. I think the watch is a good buy for the parts alone, almost. It would be a really good deal if the movement was an true eta, but you know how that goes these days.

I have Paul's DRSD and his White SD is similar in that the markers are too yellow for my taste probably. But you could get it relumed and it might be a kick-a$$ dial. These dials are smaller than typical rep dials- in the 27mm range so it would probably fit the MBW case. And it would have ETA dial feet. Even though the clasp is questionable on the bracelet (Freddy thought fantasy, I just don't know), the hollow mid links and 93150 markings with rep 580 end pieces make it worth $75-100 alone IMO. I put a good clasp on mine and 593 end pieces and wear it on my 16800. This watch probably has the working HE valve- mine does- and it's a great copy of the gen. Alas, you can't fit a T-39 or gen insert- I tried. If Paul will sell you just the dial, it's a great deal, especially if you get a relume.

I got my Cousins catalog yesterday- kinda surprised me, and it is a nice catalog. I ordered $15 worth of parts a few months ago. No eta's but plenty of chinese movts. I can order from Borel pretty easily these days- they have my cc on file. Of course, I ordered from Cousins on line also. Stuff showed up in 10 days to 2 weeks- not bad.

You can buy the WM pearl by itself these days for $10 plus freight. I'd leave the one in your noob alone. And for an SSD, I'd pop out the original pearl, enlarge the hole slightly w./ an xacto knife and glue in the new WM pearl. Cheap and simple.

I'm with jjfesq- the bk WM9 V2 is like a no brainer IMO. Shoot, you don't even have to mod it and w/ SL and all the other great features, it's got to be the new 'best out of the box' sub.

I'm not aware of Ziggy being able to machine the case of an MBW, but it never hurts to ask. The price you paid for the dial is OK, but I can't tell from the pic if there is a scratch between 7 and 8- Ziggy might be able to fix that. I guess you keep looking for someone w/ lathe/machining capabilities, cause the NDT case runs $1K and a 1575 will go for another grand plus and insert, crown tube, and hands will easily put you up in the $2.5K range- $3K total, but then you'd have a very nice franken.

I'd sure love to see the copy 3135, EPZ. I keep waiting for that one to start showing up, I'd love to see it, buy it, install it in a rep/franken!

I looked at the pics and it looks like the SSD with the asian 2813. For $98 plus s&h, what do you have to loose? I couldn't tell if it was a PTS Resources 2813 with the WO symbol under the balance, or the NN 2813- is that the Nanking watch works... I'm partial to the PTS Resources movement myself, but a CN movt is a CN movt! You take your chances. If you have a watchmaker, hopefully you'll survive. You do need to get a WM pearl though, cause the pearl in Trusty's pic is a zit!

I agree with Freddy, you might want to have it serviced or checked out to make sure the tritium from the seconds hand didn't land in the movement. Considering the condition of the watch, a service is probably due. I have seen where watchesandparts over in Hong Kong has had some of the vintage tritium pearls for sale lately that would fit that bezel insert- the nice and brown aged ones! BTW, that looks like a 24-702 crown- the earlier style prior to the 24-703- no gasket on the outside of the case tube.

I doubt it really has anything to do with the painted infill on the caseback. I have the same problem when I get hot and sweaty- here in Houston, that's all summer long. The black is the oxidation of the stainless steel on your skin. I don't wear a Sea-Dweller, but all my subs do the same thing. Soap and water will work. As for getting it on your clothes, I would think it would come out in the wash with a little pre-soak like Spray and Wash or Oxy-Clean. I wear short sleeves 9 months out of the year myself. I'm off to the gym to sweat it out.