nakortheblue

Just wondering whether nitrolume or RC Tritec SL is better for a beginner to learn the art of luming. Thanks, R

i've got a v2 5004 rep with fixed power reserve. this is the picture from pc. this is the picture of the gen from iwc. so the obvious problems are too-thin hands and recessed dw. then there is the rep with working power reserve which i think is more fantasy but has fatter hands. so a few questions. 1. will the hands transplant from the working power reserve rep to the fixed one? or... 2. will the dial transplant from the fixed pr one to the working pr one? thanks for looking, R

i also have a SOSF without dial feet. In this case, no glue or silicone was used. Instead, the only thing holding the dial to the movement were the hands and the movement could swivel round under the dial. Go figure... This is the picture of the back of the SOSF dial.

Opened my new 42mm PO and wasn't able to see any dial feet sticking out from the back of the movement. After I took off the hands, I loosened the feet clamps and tried to remove the dial... It was stuck. It took some force to pry it loose and I turned around and found traces of glue on the underside and the "lips" of the movement. Is this the normal way of attaching a feetless dial to a movement? Just wondering how normal my watch is... Pic follows. Thanks for looking.

thanks, guys. i'm following up on this with my dealer.

Opened my SOSF case and saw the "high quality" plastic movement holder. Is this correct for the "ETA" version?

I've always thought that the hands on my 3717 looked a bit off-white. I took out the crystal for a potential AR run and it definitely looked yellowish to me. See the pic compared to a Mark XV crystal without AR. (3717 crystal on the left) Any idea if this is the normal behaviour for rep AR? Thanks for looking.

yeah, the posts look like they may have been holding the plater there. the hands are silver... i'm not going to be putting it together again so they're yours if you want.

nah... it's not really my kind of watch so i'll just leave it in the graveyard. thanks for the info anyways. there wasn't any glue or tape holding the top plate but it was quite tight and i could not pry it loose from the top but only from the side. seems like it was held by some form of tension. it did not fit back as tightly again.

1 crystal for me.

hmm... the watch is about 3 months old... so probably quite a long shot. anyway, it didn't look good on me and it was quite fun taking apart so i'll let the matter rest. less stress for me that way...

i think any of the cartel dealers should have it. should be in the region of $100.

after reading the "Top Bargain Buys!" post by chrgod, i decided to get a fun watch, the FM Totally Crazy with Crazy Hour and Crazy Date. here is a picture of the dial with the date indicator as i forgot to take a shot before I started dismantling the watch. the crazy hour worked fine but the crazy date kept jumping to the wrong date. from the picture, it should be jumping 7 dates to "5" next (green circle) but it would always take 1 jump less, in this case to "27" (red circle). i had a fairly long email exchange with the dealer. the gist of it was that he said it would get better over time. i gave up pursuing the matter since I wasn't all that keen on spending money sending it to GZ on the possibility that it may be lost or stolen. since the watch didn't really suit me, i decided that it should end its life on the operating table to further the cause of science (so to speak). with Toad's FM movement guide as a reference, i got as far as the top plate. this is where i got stuck. i removed the 3 screw at the red locations and still couldn't remove the top plate. eventually, i had to use a cheap, flat head screwdriver to pry the top plate off. at first, i had no idea what to look at and then i saw what i assumed to be the jump date gear on the right. hey, wait a minute, there's something strange with the gear. turns out that one of the teeth is broken. i guess this was what caused the date to jump 1 date less. nothing left to do now but to bury the pieces in the backyard... thanks for looking. special thanks to Toad for his inspiring guide and his PM encouraging me to post this.

you're right, fakey. i'm going to try to ignore it. can't be too hard on a rep, i guess. great advice, thanks.

wasn't very impressed by the Mark XV so I decided to dismantle it and poke around. it's sold as an ETA but the movement is sort of decorated so there is no ETA or movement number stamp. seems to have the skeleton gears though. so... is this ETA? pic follow... Thanks for looking.

probably some of the best rollie reps but certainly some of the most expensive. bk can probably fill you in.

no, this is the "eta" version. i prefer a rotor that is less noisy. there is sort of a white shadow to the hands even when seen with the naked eye from the white residue at the sides. maybe, i'll give that a try. the stuff looks stuck and dried to the side of the hands, though.

I've found some white crud on the side of the hands of my SOSF. It is mildly visible by naked eye and quite clear under the loupe. I suspect it is residue lume as it glows faintly when I turn off the lamp. The dealer will be sending my a new set of hands. I'm hoping it's not a systematic problem. I wonder if acetone can clean it off. Pics follow.

Should be IHS, don't think there are anymore CHS left in stock. Check with Josh before ordering.

i'll only change the crystal if the gen has AR. does the gen crystal from ofrei have AR?

Can the 4th gen 42mm PO take gen parts such as gen crystal, bezel, dial and hands? Thanks, R

Thanks, I'll give this a go.

Thanks for the lead, TJ.

Where should I get them from? Will they fit the ETA movement? Thanks, R

I've been out looking for a decent rep but I've only found the automatics on watcheden, they don't look very good. Polished SS Version http://www.watcheden.com/vacheron-constant...tch--22804.html RG Version http://www.watcheden.com/vacheron-constant...tch--21598.html