bob bean

I am having a problem with a Big Pilot (with working PR) and was wondering if anyone could shed any light on this issue. When the watch is not being worn the power reserve only keeps the watch running till the PR indicator reaches 6, which is about 10 hours, and hasn't dropped below 6 for a few weeks now. 4 weeks ago this watch was running faultlessly , the chap who now owns the watch has had it in the pool with no visible problems and has also worn it in the shower (against my better judgement). Does anyone have any idea as to why this may be happening? cheers in advance, Bob

I'm looking forward to it. I'm quite partial to a bit of Jimmy Squires.

Damn it man, this is an insane piece. You know how I feel about it!

Hello from Sydney, welcome Bob.

This thread title, Sir, is downright deceptive!

I have just ordered a whole bag of components from Tat and inquired about his new lume, he is throwing it on everything I've ordered for a small fee. He is really on the ball and he really does check all his stuff like no one else. Once I have built my new pieces I will post them up.

Just a few of my own. Here are a few more I've done recently. Yea, a really great piece. I got it from the one and only Stan - WBK

What about the third strap! I prefer to wear it on the first strap, the 3rd is great on the 111 and the second [mustard] suits my 177.

So I thought I'd share. Lottsa shoes that fit.

Wow, great pick up. Try either of the below links for cases, dial, hands etc. They're not vintage components but worth a look. http://www.siswatch727.com/index.do or/and http://www.jacksontse.com/index.html

As for my aging (mutilation) tips. I removed the movement and dial/hands. Closed the empty case, covered the crystal and then just a quick workout in a plastic container with some nuts and bolts, followed by a more controlled beating with a large bolt for the more "focused aging". I then ran a yellow/orange felt-tip pen(texta) around the inside of the crystals and wiped it off, repeated a few times to give it that "too long in Algiers" look. I painted a water/coffee mix onto the hands and dial and dried under a halogen light, them buffed it clean to avoid water stains on the dial. Not the hands, I left them wet and you can see the discolouration on them. I gave the dial and the hands a good session under a halogen light to sun beat them. Finally I popped the bezel insert into an eggcup of bleach for a few minutes, when you see some of the black in the bleach remove, then gave it a rub which removes even more colour. I didn't remove the insert I just removed the crystal and popped the case into the bleach face first. (the eggcup was perfect size to just submerge the bezel. Done. Oh then I dropped the movement/dial/hands onto a hard floor and sheared of the second hand. Do not do this. Unless of course you too think that seconds are overrated. Rob

There were several configurations of mil subs that are considered correct and original depending on the age and batch. - The 5513 milsub has been delivered with either sword hands or mercedes hands from new - The 5513 milsub came with either full 60 minute bezel insert or 15 min bezel insert from new. - The 5517 milsub was delievered only with sword hands and full 60 minute bezel. Some milsubs have had their dials repainted by the MOD watchmakers in a very unusual fashion: the resulting dial has a very unorthodox

Been stuck on this on for the last 3 days.

I will get around to sharing my aging "tips" during today. And it's not that I don't care for the little fellow, I do. He is just wearing his "hard at work" outfit, you know clearing submersible mines, abseiling battlements and such. It was designed as a tool.

Sorry to here it mate! Especially as it's gonna be a gift. Now to post it back to the seller and the wait for the return, the joys of our hobby. Get into contact with your dealer. Good luck.

Hey KT This isn't uncommon unfortunately, what you can do is tap the pin out via the "outside" hole on the striped side. You can do this by using a tiny screwdriver or heavy stitching needle and pop it into the outside of the offending lug hole (careful not to scratch the case!), then tap it with a hammer/leatherman/anything with some weight.This should pop it out. Warning depending on the condition of the pin thread it could strip the lug hole thread, if it isn't already stripped that is! Get yourself a pair of springbars with every PAM you order, this way you will save yourself issues of stripping threads when changing straps etc. Hope it helps, good luck Bob

Unfortunately its the pin that sheared, the second hand is fine apart from a bit of the pin still in it.. I would just have to replace the cheapo 21j. But I'm not to worried as I now synchronise to meet other secret agents at the pub on the minute.

Just a little wear and tear. Too much? . . from this... Image courtesy of narikaa . . to this.

Thank you all for looking and the comments. @bwhitesox - If you are ever in need of a custom strap just let me know. Bob

Yep, Sydneysider here. Thanks for the kind words Ken. Bob

I just thought I'd throw up a few pics of some of my latest batch. Thanks for looking. . -- . . -- . . -- .

I think I'll put this one in the " a lesson learned" file. It has no DW It is a cheap Milsub with an incorrect dial = "Oyster Perpetual Date" . So I will wear it to the wrecking yard, cage fights and my blocking bullets with my wrists gig. But will start a new project of building a 5513/5517 which is more accurate-ish. Or perhaps a comex 5514. or a.... cheers fellas

How did you recognise it as a 21j from the pics I posted???

Yep a cheap 21j. Oh well, It's probably cheaper buy a whole new watch than a new movement and new hands (I'll probably damage them getting them out and the pin out of the second hand), as well as picking up hand removal/refitting tools. Live and learn, hopefully. Cheers all for your input guys, off to price up tools, movement & hand set Vs. new cheapo. Butterfingers out.