Ronin

@Freddy333 - Damn, your collection is inspiring!

FYI - Updated the OP with the following.

Tips / Tricks / Lessons I learned:

Ok. Now for the learn from my mistakes and experience time. In particular order, just some random musings.

• Hands - Trying to paint "White" over Glit, was a failure for me. So I opted for the silver seconds hand instead to obtain the look. If I were to attempt the white hand-- I would order a red yachtmaster hand for ETA, strip the paint, then paint with airbrush. The other issue in attempting the white hand was then having to relume it since chances are good the lume will get stripped, or paint on it.
• Hands II - A bad assumption on my part, I figured the hour hand would have a "positive stop" when pressing on. I was wrong, and my first press of the hour hand had it touching the dial. Yikes. LESSON LEARNED: press hour hand while watching closely under the loupe. Stop when you have the desired clearance, or in my case with ETA when the top of the hour hand was flush with the top of the hour wheel pinion. Tools: I simply used my Bergeon Presto Puller and 7404-2 presser. To press the second hand on I recommend Ubi's Dumb-Dumb Sucker stick.
• Pearl - The rep pearl was crap plastic. A more accurate vintage pearl would not work because it was too small for the hole already in the insert. The WM pearl was too big. TRICK: To fit the WM pearl I used a 3mmx.60 tap to slowly open the hole a bit bigger. Actually, just used the tip of the tap to ream the hole bigger. To prevent loss of the pearl, I also used a small amount of JB Weld Epoxy on the back side.
• GS Hypo Cement - I used this to glue the insert and crystal. It did the job but I am not sold on it. My weak-link from a water proofing perspective is the crystal to the case.
• Cutting the Stem - Surprisingly this was easy for me. Only took 2 cuts to get it right. I think the Rolex style screw down made it easier. My shortcut is, TIP: 1.) Screw on crown to uncut stem and insert into cased movement. 2.) Using my caliper I measured the distance from the tube to the start of the threads on the crown. (2.5mm) in my case. 3.) Then I measured how much squish/push the traditional Rolex screw-down crown had. About another 1mm. So I figured I needed to cut 3.5mm off the stem. 4.) Went conservative with my first cut and stuck with 2.5mm. This put the crown threads just touching the tube. Pushing it in would allow it "screw-down", but I was still a bit far away from the case when the crown bottomed on the top of the tube. 5.) Nipped off about .5mm and filed it a little bit. Viola! I used Loctite 290 on the stem to crown for final installation.
• Bezel - This Bi-Directional Bezel was very stiff with a very metal-on-metal feeling. TRICK: I used a little bit of Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly on the groove the tension wire rides in. Viola, smoother and easier to turn.
  Future Modifications (maybe):
  • Reseal Crystal to case. Right now it water resistant to about 1 BAR. Safe to wash hands, or get caught in rain, and possibly ford a river. I am reluctant to swim, dive, shower (pressure) with it.
  • Locate a BIGGER sterile crown. Would love to find an 8mm Sterile Crown/Tube.
  • White Seconds hand
  • Sterile Bracelet

@TJ - I like to have options, so I will probably go for a sterile bracelet as well. Stay tuned on that front.

Kurosawa

Love the Destro!

Sounds like a great idea. I would love to contribute.

Sayonara

I would have to agree with OS about the "sand" as an abrasive. I would think a long sleeve shirt continually being pulled over the watch would have a more substantial effect. The other good point was about the materials used 20+ years ago. Hmmmm....

This takes us back to possibly using a 1200+ grit sandpaper and a Clorox (bleach) bath.

I do believe UV is the key. Case in point, I gave my father a Vostok Amphibian about 4 years ago. He lives in a desert climate and about 3000 ft above sea-level. The watch had a dark Navy Blue dial. After just 2 years of exposure to the sun out there the dial turned "Tropic Brown"!!! No water involved, just sunlight. Now, given the "Russian Quality" they are probably making these 1968 style watches like they did 40+ years ago. This lends more support to the mfg. methods, and simple UV.

Perhaps instead of the water bath, we need to find some super high concentrated UV sources, or not sure if Laser light would work.

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Yes, I forgot to mention, (just updated the OP) I found the dial on the Seiko-Citizens trading forum for $15.00. And someone else on RG found the same via Noah Fuller. http://www.10watches...cts/show/795928

A few weeks ago I posted some pics from my bench of my sterile dial homage to the Bond 653x Rolex. Since this is one of a kind, no worries about the finer "Rolex details".

The project is complete!!! My first. Scroll through the pics, and at the bottom you will find additional details. Enjoy!

I call this my 653.09D. 653 for tribute, 09 for 2009. D for date. (My own homebrew "Kingston" kinda sorta...)

Bench / Build Shots:

Pearl is WM (Watch Material)

Gen Swiss ETA-2836-2 "bubble pack" from Ofrei. Keeping COSC (or close to it) on the winder

NOT Photo Shopped. Camera Exposure set to 15seconds f3.3 ISO 80 4.1mm 25mm

I lucked out that the hands lume matched the dial. The WM Pearl is a bit softer.

Wrist and Fun Shots:

w/Bond's Beretta pre-Walther

Details-Parts / Sources / Cost:

• Case - Rolex Rep Case (Silix Style) - originally purchased as complete 6536 rep from member Seafoam - $60
• Crown / Tube - Sterile Rolex Replacement Crown - Ofrei - $15
• Pearl - Watch Material WM - $10
• Insert - from original case/rep
• Dial - from Seiko-Citizens trading forum - $15
• Hands - eWatchparts $15 x 2 = $30
• ETA Movevment - Ofrei - $138
• 18mm Corvus Bond RAF strap - $40
  Project Total - $308.00
  Project Hours - 8
  (Left over parts include Rolex 6536 Rep Dial, 21J Movement, Rolex Rep Crown/tube)
  
  
  Tips / Tricks / Lessons I learned:
  Ok. Now for the learn from my mistakes and experience time. In particular order, just some random musings.
  • Hands - Trying to paint "White" over Glit, was a failure for me. So I opted for the silver seconds hand instead to obtain the look. If I were to attempt the white hand-- I would order a red yachtmaster hand for ETA, strip the paint, then paint with airbrush. The other issue in attempting the white hand was then having to relume it since chances are good the lume will get stripped, or paint on it.
  • Hands II - A bad assumption on my part, I figured the hour hand would have a "positive stop" when pressing on. I was wrong, and my first press of the hour hand had it touching the dial. Yikes. LESSON LEARNED: press hour hand while watching closely under the loupe. Stop when you have the desired clearance, or in my case with ETA when the top of the hour hand was flush with the top of the hour wheel pinion. Tools: I simply used my Bergeon Presto Puller and 7404-2 presser. To press the second hand on I recommend Ubi's Dumb-Dumb Sucker stick.
  • Pearl - The rep pearl was crap plastic. A more accurate vintage pearl would not work because it was too small for the hole already in the insert. The WM pearl was too big. TRICK: To fit the WM pearl I used a 3mmx.60 tap to slowly open the hole a bit bigger. Actually, just used the tip of the tap to ream the hole bigger. To prevent loss of the pearl, I also used a small amount of JB Weld Epoxy on the back side.
  • GS Hypo Cement - I used this to glue the insert and crystal. It did the job but I am not sold on it. My weak-link from a water proofing perspective is the crystal to the case.
  • Cutting the Stem - Surprisingly this was easy for me. Only took 2 cuts to get it right. I think the Rolex style screw down made it easier. My shortcut is, TIP: 1.) Screw on crown to uncut stem and insert into cased movement. 2.) Using my caliper I measured the distance from the tube to the start of the threads on the crown. (2.5mm) in my case. 3.) Then I measured how much squish/push the traditional Rolex screw-down crown had. About another 1mm. So I figured I needed to cut 3.5mm off the stem. 4.) Went conservative with my first cut and stuck with 2.5mm. This put the crown threads just touching the tube. Pushing it in would allow it "screw-down", but I was still a bit far away from the case when the crown bottomed on the top of the tube. 5.) Nipped off about .5mm and filed it a little bit. Viola! I used Loctite 290 on the stem to crown for final installation.
  • Bezel - This Bi-Directional Bezel was very stiff with a very metal-on-metal feeling. TRICK: I used a little bit of Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly on the groove the tension wire rides in. Viola, smoother and easier to turn.

  Future Modifications (maybe):

  [*]Reseal Crystal to case. Right now it water resistant to about 1 BAR. Safe to wash hands, or get caught in rain, and possibly ford a river. I am reluctant to swim, dive, shower (pressure) with it.[*]Locate a BIGGER sterile crown. Would love to find an 8mm Sterile Crown/Tube.[*]White Seconds hand[*]Sterile Bracelet

  THANKS FOR LOOKING!

Exactly Red! Also reminds me of when Volkswagen launched the Phaeton. Great car, but who is going to pay $100k for something with a VW badge on the grill. Put the Audi badge on it (same company) and you will get people to buy.

That just made me think of Tudor. Tudor is to Rolex : as : VW is to Audi | Toyota is to Lexus | Nissan is to Infinity | Honda is to Acura.

Seiko just kinda out there, like your Genesis point.

Interesting to think about.

Milla Jovovich

I have stumbled upon that link numerous times over the past few years. My question is, has anyone actually bought his book? With RWG I fail to see the need.

-of the WORLD

Queen

The Anthropomorphizer: Attributes human like characteristics to his/her watches. Often treating the watches better than their actual human spouse, children and friends. Often refers to Straps as "New Shoes". This person will also often name the watch: Sally Submariner, Timmy Tag, Howie Heuer, Otto Omega, Britney Brightling, Nikki the Navi, Penelope Panerai.

Whatever you do, don't get them talking about their "twins" especially the fraternal ones with black face -vs- white face.

(Galileo) Galileo (Galileo) Galileo, Galileo Figaro

Magnifico-o-o-o-o

I'm just a poor boy nobody loves me

He's just a poor boy from a poor family

Spare him his life from this monstrosity

Wow! Just when I thought I did not need any more watches!

Nice!

Witch

Great shots!

Unless you are out to replicate a vintage down to this level, SuperRep, don't worry about it.

It is not even tell-- unless you are setting the time, of say a vintage Rolex rep, in public, in front of a Rolex EXPERT as an example.

Here on these forums, it is more of a "vintage" movement thing. (i.e. OLD Submariners up until about ~1974~ were NON-hacking.)

The most common movements found in our Reps: ETA 2836, 2824, 7750, 6497, Asian 21Js are hacking.

Surprisingly, most (modern) Seiko divers are still NON-hacking, the 7S25, 7S26 work horse movements.

Nori

Kelp