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Ronin

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Posts posted by Ronin

  1. If it is an AS Movement (vintage), it will be impossible to find "Rolex Style" hands for it as the AS's use 90/130/22 -vs- ETA 90/150/25 -vs- DG/Miyota 100/152/17. Minute hand is only common denominator.

    You also need to take in consideration of stem alignment.

  2. What the world needs is exact relicas of various rolex models (in outside appearance) with the trade name RELAX and the Devil's head with 2 horns to replace the hallowed coronet for a trademark.

    Below the dial center put:

    Supelazy Crapometer

    Officially Confused

    I'll take a black Submareener with a red Devil's head. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

    :good: It would probably be a hit with the Hipster crowd.

  3. So is it 'safe' to say:

    24-703 "Original" w/Crimped construction w/bigger crown closer dots to crown.

    24-703 "Monoblock" aka 704 w/dots appearing further away.

    As such, if you sent ANY Trip-Lock Submariner in for service to a RSC today, it would comeback with a 24-7034 Monoblock and supporting tube?

  4. The B.O.C. One is a nice Homage. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

    Even if you don't care for this sort of modification, I think it is a GOOD THING for our hobby, and the watch world in general.

    The more "Modified Gen Rolex's" in the wild, the better. The more people having GENs serviced by independents who may choose to use "Aftermarket" service parts the better. While I can appreciate an unmolested "Winder/Safe Queen w/B&P", lets mess with the purists who think using NON-Rolex hands, inserts or bracelets is a cardinal sin. :victory:

    The more muddy the water, the better... IMHO. This also sends a big Fsck You you to Rolex and their control freak nature.

  5. dont worry about it, i think youre fine.

    +1

    As Rolex's parts distribution to independent watchmakers gets stricter and stricter, the use of aftermarket (note: aftermarket does not mean fake) parts will become more commonplace.

    Furthermore, without a macro photo or loop, no one is going to notice an aftermarket second hand while on your wrist.

  6. Looks cool.

    I am a little confused on its functions.

    Looking at the dial it has a 12hour timer, a day of week (but no date???), and I assume the top button engages a basic 60 second stop watch tied to the 12 hour timer?

    Again, looks good, but confused to its operation.

  7. Consider-- There are no good/quality 14060 Replicas out there.

    If you open the back and it has a GEN movement, you are good. The dial size on these is also different from a 16610. It is smaller.

    I have said before, "serviceable parts" does NOT make a Rolex fake or less authentic IMHO. So, Hands, and Inserts alone are NOT ENOUGH to 'fail' a watch IMHO. Especially if it has ever been serviced by an independent watchsmith.

  8. My concern would be matching the dial aesthetically... I purchased Clark hands just to take a look and lumi hands on a non glowing dial just doesn't do it for me... i know all service replacement hands now are lumi, but what would be an inexpensive option to give a dead tritium look on a 1570 movement?

    I use a combo of Freddy333's Iodine method. However, Iodine on Lumi does some strange stuff. It is as if the Lumi "eats" the Iodine, so it goes on dark and returns close to normal. Bizzaro. And you will never totally kill the lumi, it will shine through a bit still.

    I will take a Lumi hand, and ON THE BACK of it, color it with a "Brown Sharpie" marker. The brown will darken and show thru to the front of the hand.

    The below hands were Sharpied on the Back, and Iodined on the front with a manicurists Q-Tip.

    The DOT on the 24hr hand was Sharpie added to the front side, and smeared with Iodine.

    a25pp1010635.jpg

    You can also Try Coffee or Tea Staining. But beware, too wet and you might disolve the Lume all together.

    smp1010611.jpg

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