krpster

You need to open the case back and push the stem release on the back of the movement. Looks like this

 

 

Then you can use tweezers to gently pull out the stem. You will likely need to remove the movement spacer ring as well to get the clutch cap unless it comes out the crown tube when you remove the stem. Once you have all the pieces out take a shot and lets see what you have.

 

Reassembly is pretty straight forward but having a pin vice is helpful for installing the clutch cap back on the crown to make sure it is good and tight. Also blue loctite is your friend for this and also reattaching the crown to the stem. Not too much, just enough to keep them from coming loose again.

The crown can also be repaired if you have all the parts. The small spring is often the piece that is lost. If you have that the rest should be inside the case. Here are a few shots of one that I repaired not too long ago on a 236K.

 

Looked like this when I removed the stem from the watch

 

Here are all the parts after I rescured the clutch cap from inside the case (stuck in the stem hole of the movement spacer)

 

Partially assembled with some loctite to prevent the clutch cap from coming loose again

 

All done beside another PAM auto crown for reference

I would like to have them repaired, but I don't know who can repair them for me? Any suggestions?

 

Depends where you are located

Definitely 21j movement but based on the symbol under the balance it is an actual DG movement so it is either a DG2813 or 4813.

 

Based on what it would take to resuscitate (bezel assy, crystal) I am not sure you will have much luck. Does not appear to be gen construction so your only avenue is to find a donor rep watch of the same vintage and spec to use to get what you need. Given the difficulty of even getting current model parts I think it will be a needle in the haystack to find the these. Never know though, strangest things pop up. In the mean time, although it has sentimental value I think your time and money may be better spent getting a newer version.

Very odd. Do you suppose it is just painted on?

Thanks for the update. Sure seems like the frequency of seizures is on the rise.

There are also some 21j versions out now that have the chono sweep hand frozen at 12 so these would be an option as well.

Welcome aboard. You will find many here that enjoy much of the same

P.S. Actually on vacation right now in your wonderful state. Great place!

WOW! Every one of those is beautiful. I am very jealous. Nice work.

Very interesting. Don't suppose you can get any more info or pictures on why it does not fit? Curious if it is a diameter, thread pitch issue or what.

Not bad. Date font is a dead give away however. If you could swap it for a Gen part it would be pretty darn good.

When did we start judging members based on post count? Almost a meaningless number really. Very easy to have a high post count but not actually contribute anything to the forum. Also, the converse is true where it is possible to have a low post count but have each one meaningful.

To answer your two questions seperately...

Structure of the oscillating weight between these two movements is completely different. Not compatible in any way.

As kbh has mentioned the 2892 is used to power many complication modules. As an example a common unit used by Tudor and Hublot is the Dubois Depraz chrono module.

Looks like the sale ended. Was marked down additional sale price that put it to $399.

Nice stats for the money. Looking forward to some wristies when she arrives.

Probably compared to gen it is not supposed to be so small a gap. If it makes you feel better my Navi World bracelet is the same. Very tight getting my finger in there to open the clasp.

I like it too. I have a DD with the same colour dial and I find it quite sharp. However, I am betting it is one of those watches that looks awesome in photos but just doesn't work when you put it on.

Also good place for finding info on obscure movements. Had a few in the past that I was able to find there.

Why do car manufacturers advertise that a car can do 67mpg but in real life it only does 35 to 40mpg?

Lies, damn lies, and statistics.

 

 

Actually, out of interest, it is not the manufacturers discretion of what to list for mpg. It is based on a standard test that is outlined by the EPA (USA) or ECE-15 (EU). Sadly the parameters of these test and the resulting fuel economy rating does not match anything close to reality. So the manufacturers aren't at fault for the "lie" although they do have some capacity to tip the scale a bit during the tests. 

 

Now back to your regularly scheduled program

Very very nice. I love the GS line. Would love to get one but find I put my money towards other gens instead. Wear it well.

Pretty sure this has been discussed several times in the past with the conclusion being that it just isn't a good idea from the standpoint of a business or a member. For me it would all center around damage and loss. A few items to deal with off the top of my head:

 

How to resize for each recipient? Surely do not expect the renter/trader to resize them selves. If so this will guarantee damage, scratches and lost parts. You could mandate take to a jeweller but no way to enforce.

 

How to ship multiple times without damage. There is no doubt that shipping and handling are not the greatest for a time piece. Statistically a few times in its life would be fine but making frequent trips increases potential for mishandling and permanent damage.

 

As others mentioned, insurance. You would need it and I would expect that the premiums would be very cost prohibitive resulting in high costs for the business and or customer.

 

At the end of it all I would not put one of my gens in either. I am extremely particular about my watches and there is no doubt that if it were to go into some kind of trade or sharing system it would not come out the same.

Well if you are looking for a Rollie you have certainly come to the right place. We abound with experts here. Welcome and happy hunting

Welcome aboard!

Typically quartz movements need to be shorted to the battery to "reset" after a battery change. There will be a small terminal or node marked with a (+) or R or even labeled RESET. You jumper this to the backside of the battery. I usually use tweezers but anything metal will do so long as it is small enough that it only contacts the node when touching. This should fix your problem.

If you need help with specifics try to find the caliber number of the movement and we can try to look it up.

I guess I gotta tone it down crusing in my swagger wagon (Sienna for those not in the know). No AP for me