sssurfer

Just to add that the abovesaid troubles are not only restricted to retrieving my own posts, but everyone's posts as well.

Do you get any error messages? How are you trying to retreive your past posts? Via search or other ways?

No error messages.

To retrieve my posts I click on my name on the top left of the page, then 'Profile Options' / 'Find member's posts'.

Then:

My posts often do not show correctly. Especially when they begin with a quotation, it just shows "<..." or other mess.

When I click on the Post Preview # at the bottom of my post, sometimes I am teleported somewhere else. Always a post of mine, but not the one I was trying to reach.

On TRC that same procedure works marvellously.

Thanks for your attention, Admin.

take note all those who complain about our dealers - they may call a rep with flaws the "perfect sub" but you get what you see in the photos everytime !!!!

Sacred words.

Yes, protectionist measures might have made sense one century ago or so, not in today's global village.

Europe and Switzerland - maybe even US - are out-of-date (and out of reality and out of mind) if they think they can go somewhere by protectionist measures.

Some days ago I was searching some cyclopses on the net, and I found them from a US company @ 17 USD + s/h. I contacted them, and they addressed me to their Italian distributor, which asked me 100 Euro + 50 Euro s/h (192 USD total) for that same lens. Bummer! About 700%x (!). So I asked the US company to buy directly from them , and they did not reply (that is a "NO" in commercial language).

European scandalous (and protectionist) fees, supported by US fellowship...

The result? I am likely going to get those lens(es) through a helpful US member here. And, should this not work as well, I am going to contact Indian and Chinese companies.

It is not really important whether Sellita movements are good or bad: if they are bad, then other companies (most likely from far east) will step in and fill the gap, sooner or later.

It is not really important whether Italian or US companies are going to sell to me what I want: if they don't, then other companies (most likely from far east) will do, sooner or later.

Personally, I am experiencing troubles in retrieving my past posts, Admin.

And I did not get a feeling that it is related to a specific forum.

fellfell, can you exhibit any proof of what you are affirming?

Please give us evidences, don't just state it all as self-evident.

The Zigmeister gave us his evaluations about Asian-vs-Eta on repeated threads and on objective basis: please do the same if you want to criticize his statements. Tell us on what measurements you can say that a Seagull 7750 is worth no more than 20-30$.

We have also been told of several ways that ETA movements can still be available around, at least until very recent times.

My watchsmith is scared [censored] to pop crystals out

Well, any watchsmith but one, I suppose...

In that case one might want to have a try with the MSA07.152 or 180.606 tool from this Ofrei page (near the bottom of the page).

Those presses work both to remove and to install crystals (besides of closing casebacks, naturally). I personally use the inexpensive 180.606 and I never had a problem.

there are many people who see Pam everywhere .... but sorry i'm not one of these...

That Rolex is a beautiful timepiece.

But personally I find it easier to count the pulsations on 30 secs on my PAM and then multiplying it by 2.

Hi taiji,

you can start by treating the outside of your crystal with any solvent you can think of: alcohol, acetone (nail-polish remover), petroleum, etc. If your crystal is double-side coated (but I doubt it) this should remove the outside coating and make the blueish tint lighter.

If you are not satisfied with the result, then you have to remove the crown guard, the caseback, the crown, the movement, and push the crystal from the inside to make it pop out. Better pushing it with the proper tool, not with your fingers, else you might break it. It is a 5 minutes job for any watchsmith.

Then repeat the solvent thing on the crystal inside. This should get you rid of any AR coating.

Finally reassemble the watch in reverse order: push the crystal in, reinstall the movement, the crown, screw the caseback in, and reinstall the crown guard.

Have a good Yang form. Zai jian!

Chronus, what the heck did you mess on your 028 back?!?

Oh my, The Zigmeister at his best!

Nice to see you back in your greatest shape, Rob!

I realized I was lost when I asked my wife to wear PAMs instead of handcuffs in our bed games...

Out of joke:

welcome, addict fellow.

You will soon discover that this addiction is not only to timepieces.

It is - even worse - to this very place.

Is he/she your pet? We could arrange a rendezvous between him/her and mine to let them know each other...

Just kidding. Congrats, nice Photoshop skills!

Welcome aboard, abunnybabe!

So you like bunnies? Me too. Which is your preferred recipe to cook them?

sss, I would be interested in other ways to apply this, I'm simply using a paint brush.

I think that you did it the right way, a paint brush seems the right tool for sandwich dials.

But, as I absolutely need the date, I have no sandwich PAM.

So I am obliged to be fool and suicidary and to start it the hardest way, i.e. by painting markers and numbers.

I feel that my already poor hand skills are going to get even worse if I use the oiler (just a needle, actually) used by the masters.

I rather need something where the flow can come continuosly if I want so, stop when I want so, and that I can even make it a large/fast flow or a thin/slow flow.

I think I can make such a tool by adding a rubber-syringe to what is called an 'auto oiler'.

But auto-oilers are made to flow oil -- so I need a medium that has oil density, is crystal-clear, thickens after painting, but stays fluid while in the auto-oiler.

I got several materials and I am ready to start experimenting. I just need the auto-oilers that I bought on the bay a month ago

Btw, congrats on your job!!!

Hi george, I saw that someone already pointed you in direction on your hunt, so I just say my

welcome!

Welcome toni, nice avatar!

Don't listen those who talks of PAM... there's no such thing around... they were just taking jokes on a newcomer... our way to be friendly, nothing else...

(whispering) guys, what were you doing?!? talking of PAMs to a newcomer that only talked about Omega, Tag, and so??? do you want him f****d up???? (/whispering)

My wife knows everything both about my hobby and my money income, so...

Anyway, I would never try to pass a rep for a gen to any woman as a gift.

Great find, Pobiga, thanks for sharing!

I too am studying on DIY relume, but I want to try something new, i.e.:

1) Glow Paint Pro pigments;

2) new tools to apply the painting (something more similar to a pen than an oiler);

3) (because of 2) some new medium.

Let's keep in touch -- after all we are Italians.

Ciao!

There is no sign of any sort of hole on the back side of this CG. The circle you see in the picture is identical to the engraving of REG. & TM. All I can think of is that there is a springbar in there, but I cannot imagine how that would do anything but complicate the machining process, it appears that drilling a hole straight through and running a pin would be the simplest (and most accurate) way to manufacture this watch. Odd

You are right and that is weird.

And even if the circle on the CG upper side is a real hole, it just makes for a one-way (push-in only) pin.

I suppose your problem is the 'loose lever in the open position' -- else, no point in thinking about the pin.

Then, I'm afraid your only chance is drilling your own holes through the CG sides.

Should you decide to give it a try, naturally start by drilling the upper side, where you have the engraved circle to sign a point to drill (but pls consider that, should that point reveal as a completely fake point, a point not matching the actual position of the springbar, you will be fu**ed up).

Once the springbar (hopely) comes out, you can (hopely) remove the lever and use the first hole as a guide to drill the second hole on the CG back.

Then you can make a new pin from a thin nail.

I usually use nails 0.92mm diameter, but you'll have to guess from the diameter of the hole in your lever and the thickness of the rubber insulating tube that you are going to use as a gasket.

No hole on any side of the CG?