sssurfer

How nice of you, wan... Still, I, for one, would like to know the size of these screws, thread and all. I mean, I would purchase a whole shitload of them, instead of having to hussle my suppliers.

I subscribe.

Btw, that gift by wan is worth is weight in pure gold...

I am not so hard against that guy. You seem to take it for granted that if someone is wearing a rep, then he is trying to fool the others. Maybe he simply liked that watch and he could not afford the gen (a likely assumption, considering $1.2 million). Rather, he showed quite a good taste in choosing that watch (which most people are even unaware of its very existence).

My point is: in a word where everyone can get a good copy at a reasonable price, we are going to meet people with oustanding watches often and often. So it will not make for an attempt to impress people anymore: seeing and showing Daytonas, PP, etc, will become (has become?) common. In such a word, 99% of pricey watches are reps, and anyone seeing such a watch thinks it is a rep, so noone can try to impress people with his watch anymore. In such a word, when someone wonders whether a watch is a gen or a rep it means that HE is interested about the guy's financial income, not that the other is wearing it in order to show "Hey, I have $$$!"

SF? We'll see... As for now, I give anyone the benefit of doubt, especially when he is wearing a watch clearly too expensive.

Depending on how much you are willing to spend on that watch, you have two options: The Zigmeister and RIP.

SuperLuminova comes in three colors, named C1, C3 and C7.

C1 is white.

C3 is light green (the one you want).

C7 is blue-green (also said aqua).

You just have to ask Davidsen for C3 SL on both hands and markers, or apply C3 on hands by yourself. Applying SL only on hands is not a very difficult task -- just apply it on the downside.

Hope this helps.

Omigosh, so it happened again?!?

Folks, really is there nothing we can do to save our dealers from this sh*t?

Did it already occur one year ago? Is it just a problem from an expanding audience (number of buyers)... or is it something else?

EL, I envy your cool blood. Even on this sad occurrence you are able to wring a smile (even if a bitter smile) from me with your writing skills.

And, naturally, even a chargeback because a piece did not meet expectations would be questionable... but becuase it did not exceed expectations... well, yes, that is a royal treatment!

We should know the name.

This question unfortunately is not funny at all....

I am trying to build an ultimate destro and the road is still very hard....

Only decent CG I have seen (and it is the ONLY on the market) is from Davids 115 here:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=7169

Still it is not right.. the lever is closer to the back of the case...

Now I see the point. If I correctly understand, you are in the hunt for a destro CG with the lever placed asimmetrically -- while Davidsen's one is placed symmetrically.

Yes, not funny, I'm not aware of any such a beast around.

Best wishes for your hunt, I see it hard.

the 2892/3's have two different datewheels that are not interchangeable. The datewheel on the 2892-A2 (Soprad module for power reserve) will not fit on the 2893 and visa versa.

Hi Warren, I am quite confused. Some time ago I had my watchsmith trying to put a Lello's 2893 datewheel on my 2892A2 and he said it was a complete misfit. Not just the well known line-up problems, but a major misfit that made the datewheel completely useless on the 2892A2. This would confirm what you said.

Still, official ETA technique communications state both for 2892A2 and 2893 exactly the the 2557/1 (91.440) datewheel.

So, do you have any other info, by chance?

I am a bit concerned, as this issue is not trivial about using Finepic's forecoming 2893 datewheels on our 028A PAMs...

Putting a bag of silica gel in the warm place together with the watch may even speed up the happy end.

Btw, better letting the watch completely cool down before reinserting the crown, to test whether moisture has really vanished also under normal temperature conditions.

Some time ago I read of a member who took into the auction using as a name 'fake_and_seller_knows'

If you have a rep with a CG pin that you can tell it's upside down at glance, then it must be a very good rep...

Out of joke, the only two major contra-indications (naturally besides inscriptions like 'reg TM') I've found on turning the CG upside down are:

1) asymmetrical CGs, like in this and this posts

2) unlined screws, as wheaton26 found.

I also feel that opening a lever from bottom to top would be more annoying than the usual way, as gravity would make the lever tend to continuously close -- especially if it is the usual rep loose lever...

So, may I ask you why this funny question? Making left-handed right-handed, or what?

I am no expert in R0lex, so I may be wrong, but did you already check Ofrei?

Which watch for?

I got that same doubt some time ago. You may want to have a look here.

make a deal? i'm confused.

i thought the straps were a pretty good deal at 38% off...

Apologies, it was because of my bad English.

I meant: let us know if you get straps and if they look and feel good.

my favourite:

As the woman was young and they already had three children... yes, I suppose they did not use vaseline in any other way than the declared one!

Ohmigod - funny - seem to have seen something like that before - on my left wrist in fact!!!

I just wonder where on it you had the strap attached, and how you read the time from it

I agree with Kruzer. I feel sorry for the fool who got Finepics, one of the greatest assets of our community, disappointed.

Relume, cyclops, datewheels, PVD... maybe crystals, AR coating, crowns... and surely other tons of projects I am unaware of... ah, baaaahhhhh!!!

I wonder whether the AR -- or, even more, the anti-scratch -- coating can influence the results of the water drop beading test...

no , watch have some other minor problems too, and Jos offered to send back to fix it.I was'nt asked or dreamed about it,but when I get package back,brand new 147 was inside and good buckle was sent with old watch , but it's not a big deal , other RG PAM's have the same one,no problems to get replacement ...

All clear now. Thank you.

Thanks for the hint.

Let us know if you make a deal.

Funny.

Nice.

was in the same problem ... finally , get new one 147, watchcase now - perfect,but this time ugly buckle

Ouch!

Did you pay for a whole new watch?

About the buckles, I suppose that you just swapped them?

Can you post a picture of the replated watch?

After having worn the watch a while under several different light conditions, I am now forced to admit that the rose accent of the replate is very far from the original.

Very, very paler.

It's not worth any pics.

Even worse, no local plater here seems able or willing to assure a more reddish accent. It seems as the original rose tone of this watch is impossible to replicate (!?!).

I am going to ask Josh for a solution...

I have the ofrei bergeon lume that comes with medium. The RSG has much better performance so I only use the medium from the ofrei kit. I've heard that clear fingernail polish will work as well, and near as I can tell that is basicly what the medium is. After mixing, I applied to the markers with a black oiler. I didn't do the hands as they didn't need it.

I haven't had much luck in my few attempts to lume hands. I've tried a few times and just can't get the hang of it yet.

Thanks again for your reply. Just some more questions, if you like.

I too have that A*F Switzerland luminous paste that you got from Ofrei. It comes with a glue and with a diluent. As your medium did you use the glue? Did you dilute it with the diluent?

And, as your black oiler, did you use the one that comes with that box?

I am asking this as I am considering to use one of those 'automatic oilers' from Ofrei instead -- those oilers that resemble a pen and have a trigger to release a drop -- in hope to get a better control that way. Do you have any experiences or opinions about them, by chance?

Lastly, did you find it absolutely necessary to crush the pigment powder? It already seems quite fine, like flour or talcum powder... I did not try to mix it with the medium, though, so it could rather come out like fine sand instead.

Thank you, and apologies for bothering you. I am a complete newcomer in the matter, and I've heard it is quite a difficult task, so I would really like to start it the right way and I'm eager on your expertise considering how you have been succesful at it.