sssurfer

T, you must be crazy. I am a certain age old. I can't bear that stuff w/out any consequences.

[censored] the wreath is off centre... the fonts are way off, and the star indices are out of position!!!

Well, that was fun indeed! :lol:

Thanks a bunch Admin............

Well, that was even more fun indeed! :lol:

Stem tube (w/spring) de-soldered from the crown.

Crown replacement needed.

Bad quality crown from the source.

Where did you get that watch? (PM me if you prefer)

i think it may be harder to do if masked. much harder.

I'll let you know, as I got Micro Mask and I am soon going to try on a test dial.

I did not receive SL yet, but I think that on such a test I may also use that other [censored] from Ofrei that I already own.

just use a micro oiler and do a tiny section at a time

Do you mean a tiny horizontal section at a time? On each index/numeral marker, several horizontal layers of paste?

The poll at the end of last year produced the following results -

The Most Accurate Rep Of 2006

1 - (25.93%) OMEGA PLANET OCEAN

2 - (22.22%) IWC Ingenieur

3 - (20.99%) Tag Heuer Link Chrono

4 - (12.35%) Omega Seamaster Chrono

5 - ( 4.94%) Franck Muller Conquistador

6 - ( 3.70%) PAM 050

7 = ( 2.47%) Breitling Bentley GT, IWC Flieger Chrono, Omega Seamaster Pro, Tag Heuer Link

This was before the super reps (HBB, APROO, BCE etc) appeared at the start of 2007

That poll is biased. It reflects how many of those watches have been purchased not less than how good they are.

That is natural, as anyone usually feels easy on recommending only a watch that he has seen and worn in 1st person.

Where are the cards?

Very few customs in the world care about what leaves the country.

Very few customs in the world don't care about what enters the country.

Mainly the movement and the date font

Ok, I can agree on that. Actually, I too pointed out the date font in mt 1st post here.

But, about the movement, it is just a bad habit of us PAM lovers to demand a movement consistent with the gen (naturally this is because OP, differently from other brands, did not use in-home movements until a very recent age).

Being the 104 caseback not see-through, who cares about the look of the movement?

And, about the quality, I did not get one single problem from any of my Asian 21Js -- and I have 7 of them.

I don't need new lenses and I still say that $108 104 is a POS.

Ok, let's play the game then.

On what evidences is your opinion based?

That $108 104 doesn't look much better (IMO)

You need new lenses.

you could get one of these for around the same money.

And where a 104 would be?

'cos, if we deviate from the 104, then Silix also offers a 027 or a 090, with fully functional PR, @ 80 USD.

Besides of that, Silix's stock clearance is out since March 23 (judging on what they stated).

Tried the search but found no topics on this.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=4878

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=13800

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=17553

I actually ordered two C3 and one (just for the sake of experimenting) light blue set.

At this point they should be very close to be delivered.

I'll let you know right after ruining my first two or three dials.

I've been around that pig for ages, but never been bold enough to actually get it.

Congrats!

I simply can't understand how can you tell that they are not so different from the genuine.

Just look at the teeth feet.

And, as I already said, there are no black-oxide gens.

All Lello's - Davidsen's - Palpatine's - Homer's crowns (in order of appearance) are infinitely better.

I am a great fan of the 104, I have two of them (and one of his little brother, the 050).

So I plaude your choice, and even more on you getting a touch of what PAMs are.

I also got something very similar as my 1st PAM rep.

And if you like it, that's all that matters.

But now I also have to honestly tell you: one can't even look at that watch.

Keep it in a safe (and dark) place and love it as your 1st PAM.

Then add 68 bucks to its price and get this one, you'll be glad from doing it.

Only obvious faults: date font and caseback inscriptions. But great lume and great overall look.

Great value for the price!

Both they went @ about 100 bucks each!

Plenty of noobs / non-RWGers there...

... I hope.

Looks like another new Pam project is about ready to start for me.

Very good, don't miss to keep us posted!

To have a 104 dial fit into a Jimmy's case I had to file it down a little. Very little, though.

The good news is that Davidsen crown tubes fit very well in Jimmy's cases.

Very interesting, vaccum, thanks for sharing.

I have not searched for the Micro Mask on the internet, but the brand I have is from Microscales Industries, Inc.

Found @ less than 5 Km from my home, 3 EUR.

Thanks once again!

The best way is to do it by hand....all you need is lots of patience and steady hands

Sure, but protecting the neighbours won't harm... Being a thoroughful smoker, my hands are all but steady.

@ freddy333:

Really thanks for your cohomprensive tutorial on how to relume hands. I am soon going to try it (and on numeral markers as well -- naturally in their own different way) as soon as I'll receive some SL that I am waiting for.

But what I meant was not that the method that I envised in that other post was the correct way to relume hands, just that I found troubles in using painters tape to cover the parts not to be lumed. Troubles not from tape residuals, but because when you strip the tape off, the paste borders do not come out neat.

BTW, if you like grosser grain than SL, you may have a look at ReadySetGlo on eBay in case you did not already check them.

@olivia: thanks for the Micro Mask hint, it could prove exactly what I was looking for -- and for several other projects too, besides of relume.

(I doubt that it can be found here in my country, but what the heck, the net is here to do that, isn't it?)

sss -- I would not use painters tape for luming hands. I agree that that probably would not work. The procedure I suggested is for luming dial index markers only.

Yes, but the problem is the same, isn't it? I tried on hands just because painters tape surely was safe on metal surfaces. You may want to have a look here.

Acetone helps in removing the remains of glue.

The soldering iron needs to stay in contact with the cyclops.

A hair gun does not provide heat enough for the need.

Sorry I can't help about the dealer, but I may add that also OP 6556 (and possibly 6557) should be ok.

May I ask if you saw with your own eyes the gen with those numbers?

I also would like to add them into the next release of my PAM table.

Once the template mask is placed onto the dial, one simply dabs the lume paste onto the index markers through the cutouts and then peels off the painters tape.

When you peel off the painter tape, this does not leave a neat border/design of the paste on the markers. I already tried it on hands, it does not work.

Marco-

I am guessing you tried the Jimmy crystals? I have never measured but I thought Jimmy's were to spec on the manuals (3.5mm). The gen subs and GMT's use the 3.5mm crystals and have the cyclops drilled well into the crystal shaving off at least 1 or likely closer to 2mm. The Power Reserves are 2.5mm. Radiomirs are the shallowest at 1.9mm (of course they don't have cyclops ). On the sandwiche crystals the top layer of sapphire is most likely 2mm or less. Saves money by putting second layer of glass and avoiding drilling into the sapphire. It also improves magnification. They are innovative, aren't they?

That is exactly what John and I said some time ago.

And really thanks for those specs!

I think I may add that the inner layer is 1.4mm thick.

Today I tried to disassemble and reassemble (with a different cyclops) a sandwich crystal. Disassembling went good. Reassembling went a mess. I used a low-viscosity UV glue that promised not to lave air bubbles between the two layers. It was true, but I got tons of (oh what a cohincidence!) Newton rings. Disassembed again. The outer layer (it was glass too, not sapphire - a rep sandwich crystal) got scratched. Tryed to polish it. Ruined it. Turning to a Jimmy's crystal with a watchmen cyclops. The minute hand touched the cyclops. Got nervous. Replaced the watchmen with a chieftang's. Touched again. Got more nervous. Tried a different case (Jimmy's). Inserted a Davidsen crown tube - it fitted. Inserted the bezel -- ruined. Got even more nervous. Back to the sandwich crystal. Found a replacement for the outer layer (a thin glass from another watch). Reassembled again. Fallen on the ground and broken. Inner and outer layers.

Better staying in bed today.

Going to the bay to get a new Jimmy's bezel and some new idea now.