sssurfer

Thanks for the great news, lanikai!

Actually I alreay heard about DW and cyclops improvement on forecoming auto reps (104 especially included), but it was just rumors.

I just wonder what their price will be around, and whether those improvements will be on 7750 models only.

Any further info about it, by chance?

I agree. Decent for the price, provided you get that same watch but with the right text.

If you are a fan of correct casenumbers, be aware that the "F2052/4000" millesimation number on the first model is fantasy. The 177 was made from G series (2004) onwards, there are no F 177.

BTW, the "raised" markers dial is called "sausage" dial, while the "sunken" markers is called "sandwich" dial.

OP (re)introduced the sandwich dials on H series (2005) onwards.

Lello was on a short vacation and he will be back tomorrow.

Stay tuned, I am sure he will soon get in touch with you all.

And, just for the sake of completeness, there are no genuine full-Ti 47mm as well.

The only Ti 47mm are three submersibles (194, 202, and 225), and they all have brushed SS bezel.

A pic of the whole movement might help

Congrats!

Awesome work and a real cornucopia of info.

Bravo, flav, and thanks all!

Hands and bezel were enough to tell it.

Cyclops helped.

Titanium look was just a confirmation.

I use the varnish and the thinner as it dries out, adding just enough thinner to keep it liquid, nothing but what comes in the kit.

I buy the stuff in bulk now, but it's the same product, bulk is 10cc of varnish and thinner.

Thanks for your reply!

I still wonder what I made wrong.

I did not even use the thinner...

Split the dial, ie remove the face from the back...then using a yellow metal oiler, apply the lume to the back part, let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then glue the face back onto the back.

Do you use the varnish that comes with the SL kit, or others, The Zigmeister?

I am stunned from 30 minutes drying time vs many days...

89

I shared your same concerns about oiler vs brush, and I ended up by using the glass tool that comes with the SL kit.

I think I used too much varnish with respect to the powder. I had to apply two coats in order to make the coat homogeneous, and in the end the applied coat looked quite thick (quite high, I mean, not quite dense).

It took ages to dry out.

After a few days I became impatient and rejoined the upper dial layer with the inferior layer (where I had applied the lume) without waiting for a complete drying out (which I still wonder wheter a week would have been enough).

Result: the lume was all but dried out, it penetrated into the clefts of the sandwich dial bulging towards the outside (upper side) and giving the whole thing quite a silly look.

I had to separate the two layers again, cleaning them both (a pain in the ass), and starting all again from scratch.

About half SL kit wasted, too.

Great collection!

That 666 is a real eyecatcher.

They are so many, all quite pointless without all the others...

- Several sizes screwdrivers

- Case openers (including Narikaa's sticky balls)

- Tweezers

- Watchsmith paper

- Loupes

- Case holder

- Dust blower

- Rodico cleaner

- Crystal press w/ several sizes dies

- Hands remover & hands pusher

I could add:

- Dremel

- Toothpicks

- Digital micrometer and/or caliper

- Microfiber and Capecod clothes

- Crystal vs glass detector

- UV glues and lights

...

Jimmy's crystals (made to fit onto Jimmy's cases) were 35.5 mm diameter.

35.48 mm for the sake of precision.

So, any 35.4 - 35.5 mm diameter crystal should fit (the teflon gasket on which the crystal sits should compensate for such small differences).

90% of 44mm rep crystals fall between those measures.

Nice 127 but would've been nicer if it was swiss and not Asian. Watch what you buy.

watchroller, stay assured that yt74 is a seasoned member who knows very well what he buys.

He made quite clear that he took an informed decision based on the quality/price ratio and his will of not spending too much on this.

Most likely he took the best out from that money, both about the watch and the strap.

But don't worry, I think he will forgive you as you arrived just tomorrow.

Great choices on both! Congrats!

Did you notice you titled this "my first Fiddy"? Do you plan to get many others?

Pointless but nice comparison. Thanks!

BTW, I am a PAM fan but I have to agree that the best of the three is the LV.

Ok, got it: operating offline rather than online, and saving 299+VAT GBP.

Well done!

I'll try it and post about it ASAP (just, I think I'm going to use CoolEdit rather than Audacity for recording and amplifying as I am more accustomed with it).

Great post, thanks once again!

It also has no seconds.

I second the second one (oops) by Clive.

What I don't understand though and therefore annoys me is that despite these impressive movements, and use of say, a 44mm 1950 case ( ), they then go and balls it up dial-side with some really cheap and nasty looking features, such as the power reserve and meridian indicators. Why???

I am afraid I am missing what you mean as 'meridian indicators'. Is it the GMT function, by chance?

In this case I agree with you, I too feel it a cluttering and unneeded feature, but I bet many other people would want it and I can understand them.

To me, even less needed is the AM/PM feature (how many people live in a cavern?).

But as for many other features, personally those models are my dream:

- I love the sandwich dial, but I also absolutely need the date. Contrarily from former models, these have sandwich dial and date window.

- I am a lazy guy and I prefer auto movements to manual. But actually I am so lazy that even auto movements go out of charge on my wrist. So a PR indicator is my favourite complication.

- And about their cases, I heartily agree with you

Maybe OP just overwhelmed those watches with feature because of: keeping their price high; encountering the needs of a differentiated market; showing some technique exercises; making the life of reppers harder... ?

AWESOME!!!

I too stumbled upon the eTimer escapement analyzer a while ago, but got discouraged from its price.

So I was currently considering freewares like Visual Analyzer, WTM (Windows Timing Machine) or Winscope.

Is your method working with the demo version of eTimer, I suppose?