sssurfer

Great find, Pobiga, thanks for sharing! I too am studying on DIY relume, but I want to try something new, i.e.: 1) Glow Paint Pro pigments; 2) new tools to apply the painting (something more similar to a pen than an oiler); 3) (because of 2) some new medium. Let's keep in touch -- after all we are Italians. Ciao!

You are right and that is weird. And even if the circle on the CG upper side is a real hole, it just makes for a one-way (push-in only) pin. I suppose your problem is the 'loose lever in the open position' -- else, no point in thinking about the pin. Then, I'm afraid your only chance is drilling your own holes through the CG sides. Should you decide to give it a try, naturally start by drilling the upper side, where you have the engraved circle to sign a point to drill (but pls consider that, should that point reveal as a completely fake point, a point not matching the actual position of the springbar, you will be fu**ed up). Once the springbar (hopely) comes out, you can (hopely) remove the lever and use the first hole as a guide to drill the second hole on the CG back. Then you can make a new pin from a thin nail. I usually use nails 0.92mm diameter, but you'll have to guess from the diameter of the hole in your lever and the thickness of the rubber insulating tube that you are going to use as a gasket.

No hole on any side of the CG?

btw, you may find in my signature a link to an .mp3 with real italian pronounce of panerai words and here is a link to an interesting arcticle on pre-v (also said pre-a) models

That would be nice, Mark, if you find the time to do it. If negative, I suppose that non-specific-for-sapphire adhesives can be used. My watchsmith used a Seiko non-UV adhesive to glue the cyclopses on AR coated crystals, and it worked. That would be nice too, Mark. I hope the owner is a lady. Else, I humbly suggest that you ask him while you have your hands on his teeth. That situation makes for one of the two situations when a man cannot refuse anything to another man. (The other one being prosthatic examination ).

on PAMs, cyclops is attached to the inside of the crystal

Thanks, Mark. Yes, the new cyclopses are BK7. I might have them AR coated, but unsure. Do you see problems on placing an AR uncoated glass cyclops on an already AR coated sapphire crystal?

That is important info, archibald, thanks! You make me wonder if I can do better than my watchsmith (which definitely is not The Zigmeister) at glueing the piece...

9/12/1941 Frogmen of the Italian Navy penetrate the port of Alexandria in Egypt and cripple the British battleships HMS Valiant and Queen Elizabeth, along with a destroyer and a tanker. This means that Cunningham had lost all his battleships and could no longer muster a force strong enough to take on the Italian fleet. (http://www.worldwar-2.net/timelines/war-at-sea/mediterranean/mediterranean-index-1941.htm) Those frogmen were wearing PAMs on their wrists. Since then, PAMs are aknowledged for their readability in the worst situations and their thoughness. Cromodora's report on RWG I: http://www.replica-watches-guide.com/forum...showtopic=24197 Two references I just had at hand as a scuba diver: http://www.sportesport.it/wrecksEG015.htm http://www.sportesport.it/wrecksGR029.htm An Italian point of view: http://www.marina.difesa.it/comsubin/comsubin01.htm

@ajoesmith: by chance is it for your 027, joe? @Canuck88: yes, I also saw that on some models periferal distortion became a problem. That is due to the extreme desing of those lenses (designed to get the highest possible magnification) coupled with the different rehauts of our reps. Even small increases in the distance between dial and crystal result in a large increase in magnification, that can possibly result in unacceptable periferal distortion. Gens don't have this problem as each cyclops is designed for that single specific model, and perhaps they also use aspheric lenses to minimize spherical aberration (aspheric lenses would cost at least 4x, though). You may want to try your cyclops on other models with a shorter rehaut, or try removing the teflon ring on which the cystal sits and glue the crystal on the bezel directly (that would shorten the distance between the cyclops and the dial). As you pointed out, other problems about the readability of the date come from refelections. And, I might also add, from the date becoming darker (less bright). Reflections actually came out as an unexpected issue. Anyone tried AR coating the crystal with the cyclops mounted? Reflections overcome the date font also because the date font brightness decreases with the square of date magnification. At 1.8x magnification, those same light rays that comes from that given date window area become scattered on a 3.24 wider area, so that brightness becomes about 1/3 than original. That should benefit from the new datewheels that we all are waiting for from Finepics (and I also heard that Archibald was planning something about it)... Now I can hear you think "Well, I got a bunch of explainations, but very few solutions". True. All what I can say now is that, on the experience from those cyclopses, I am actually working on a project for inexpensive cyclopses that can work on all models. Be warned: no sapphire, no extreme mag this time. But no distortion and no reflections-vs-brightness issues, too. Sort of a middlepoint between old Lello's cyclopses (1.1x) and the new sapphire super-mag cyclopses we talked about (1.8x). I hope to be able offer them @ as low as about 12-13 USD (+ s/h), and with immediate shipping (ready product, no wait for manufacturing). But before releasing them I want to have them tested on ALL my PAMs. After all, there's nothing like real tests. And I also want to post pictures so that anyone can make his own judgement before purchasing.

Hi Chronus, thanks for your consideration. Actually, I don't feel the 090 a BVR (Best Value Replica) because of its date change pusher on a side. And also because of the display caseback that it originally comes with. But now that you make me think about it, the 027 from silix (PANS057 according with their naming) might be. 80 USD for a power reserve is a bargain, and it also has a matte caseback. But the inscriptions on the back are unconsistent with the gen, and - even if I do not own it - I suspect that it also has the side date change pusher, like all other Asian 21j PR models to my knowledge. Usual Pugwash quality text and pics, but a great new idea. I think that it will become a much sought reference to noobs for a long time now.

Great idea and great post, Pug! It deservers a POM nomination. (And great pics as well, as always...) Apologies for not adding anything of mine here, I feel that all essentials have been told yet.

ROFL! One of these days my poor English is going to kill me! Thanks for the update, Mike!

I'm in your same pants, Jonathan

The loose lever fix has been posted several times, in different version, here and elsewere. Try the search button. Briefly: problems - and fixes - are different whether your lever is loose only in the open position or also in the closed position. If it is loose in the open position only, then give it a try with the solution that kruzer said. Not very durable though. A more durable solution is placing a small piece of insulant plastic wire around the CG pin, inside the lever's hole. If the lever is loose in the open position too, then the problem is because of a too large light (room, space) between the lever and the crown. You may file the CG feet, or add one or more rubber gaskets below the crown, where the crown sits on its tube.

Well, that just made me spit on my monitor

Darwin rules: testicles off, no more little idiots from that big idiot.

??? 217 Now I think it was the usual problem from my poor English. With 'right handed' I meant 'to be worn on the right wrist'...

You are welcome Can't wait to hear your Italian pronounce... I just doubt it would ever be so funny as my English...

Probably you all are aware already about it, probably it's just a paranoia, but... better hearing of it and judge by yourselves... http://www.againsttcpa.com/tcpa-faq-en.html

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1729 (warning: PAM table there is outdated. Latest version is here).

If you are ok on a 40mm, then Joshua's 050 with 7750 is an almost-perfect out-of-the-box rep: very good date font and date mag, adequately thick crown, consistent engraving on the caseback. Almost undistinguishable from the gen (you need to be a PAM expert and have a gen side-to-side). And it has bracelet too.

Welcome to the forum, Steve. Whether you are in the hunt for a perfect rep, or you are an aficionado at watch modding, or you just want to share your passion for timepieces, or what, here you can meet your match. Just, if you want to keep your collection within 4-5 pieces, stay away from those ugly black objects named PAMs.

Exactly. than_talas, TTK usually does not answer PMs. Have a look here. Btw, welcome to the forum.

Hi Mark, your decision makes sense. The time of your post (4:14 AM) is enough to get a hint of the pressure you are exposed to. Surely you are one of the greatest assets to our community (personally I think THE greatest), but we all want that your unbelievable passion and involvement are at the level of your enjoyment, not of a sacrifice of yours and your real life. In the past few weeks and months I pointed in your direction some members who were still looking for 'our' cyclops (we may even have cross-referenced one of them between the two of us ). I apologize if I added to your work load that way, I was unaware of the thing. And that is also the reason that I am posting this here instead of sending you a PM. Stay well, my friend. (But, btw, your relume work on my 028 stays perfect also when examined by a loupe )