sssurfer

I am no expert so I'll try to answer just while waiting for one of our gurus chiming in. If I correctly understand, you are saying that the hands disengaged from the cannon pin, am I correct? Hands are not supposed to do that. Your watch is flawed and you should ask for a replacement. But if you do not want it pass through the customs twice again, a quick-and-dirty fix might be just tightening the hands tubes a little (by delicately squeezing them with a small plier). This will make the tubes oval, it's not an elegant solution. Just better than nothing at all...

Gorgeous and varied collection, congrats! It just lacks a nice PR model, IMHO.

I daily choose my watch on its size according with the turgor of my p***s that morning. That's why I love PAMs. (what a silly question)

Do you mean the Slytech Submersible Chrono 1000m white face? It is the PAM 225, already mentioned.

Thank you all again, I am really glad you like it, I have to admit it costed me a lot of effort and search and try and money (and I'm aware it's not over yet). You are a poet, really great words to describe it! Same here on your gorgeous 063...

I suspect that was either a prototype, a joke, or a bastardized model. As far as I know, there's no clue about a white 055 on any official OP documents. Also on Paneristi I have been unable to track any documents about it. What we have is just a japanese picture referred by a RWI member, and a rep by Davidsen possibly modelled on that same picture. Even more, the 'real' 055 has a completely different face with respect to that watch, that watch is not just a white 055. It rather resembles a 010 or 114 transplanted into a titanium case. Thanks for the info anyway -- and ready to change my opinion in case more consistent data come out.

003 - 007 - 010 - 049 - 051 - 060 (off white, "sand") - 113 - 114 - 188 - 225 - 251 (ivory). @PAM192MEX: you are correct about the 003, but the 055 is brown dial.

I have been successful in pushing out the tube by using a tool that I found in an inexpensive chinese screwdrivers set. It was like a screwdriver but with a conical end. I discovered that almost all the chinese cheap screwdrivers sets come with that tool. You put the cone end into the tube, from inside the case, and you simply give one sharp and neat hammer stroke. In case anyone is interested, I recently managed to fit a crown into a different tube with an opposite approach than acting on the tube. I acted on the crown, by replacing its stem tube. The crown was a Davidsen's one. You all know that the stem tube of a Davidsen crown is quite large, it doesn't fit on a standard rep tube. I verified that most crowns (with the possible exception of palpatine's crowns) are made of two parts. One part is the outer one, the one that we touch with our fingers when we wind the watch, and that gets in touch with the lever. The other part is the inner one with the stem tube, the part that in the pic by V is inside the blue or red circle. Keeping the stem tube with pliers and rotating the outer part makes the two parts separate quite easily and without damaging the outer part. So I removed the inner part (with the stem tube) from the Davidsen crown. It left a socket 5.8mm diameter. Then I filed a standard rep crown down to remove its outer part and leave just a 5.8mm central part with the stem tube. Then I placed this inner part within the socket left in the Davidsen crown, glued them together and --voil

PM sent

I seem to remember someone once put the dial in a small closed environment filled with cigarette smoke... http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...mp;#entry161442

Yes, eagle eye, the '2' in '12' is a little rotated clockwise, and perhaps also shifted a little downside.

WOW! What a watch! I love it!!!

I never suggested I was the greatest crown collector here

Kruzer00 is absolutely correct, I did not make it clear enough, even on a same producer the results may vary from batch to batch -- or at least it was so for OP. To make the things even more complicated, on some series OP applied a special carbonium PVD that they also called DLC (Diamond-Like Coating), that was the most whitish and shiny grey of all.

I may suppose that Finepics might have at least one extra 2892-A2 datewheel (unsure about that, though). But he's currently having some hard time, as you already read on that other thread in the General Section. I'm sorry, I'm afraid your only options here are either being patient, or persuading Lello to make his datewheels.

Assumed that it is true PVD, it must be so shiny because directly applied on polished surfaces in order to simulate a ceramic look. That is the factor that mostly affects the final shiness. Full matte PVD is essentially due to properly beadblasting the surfaces before applying the PVD coating. But yes, there are also minor differences between PVD coatings too, related with different manufacturers and procedures.

Tank you all for your nice words! @kruzer00: hi, no, the chieftang cyclops would be too strong on that watch, almost like a watchmen cyclops... It would also be too large, being the genuines 6mm on the A series. That one is a cyclops that I got from the internet, then I modified it with my own hands (made it thinner) by sanding and then polishing it again. It is 12mm focal length. As for the crown: congrats on you having been so foresighted to get one of those crowns. I assumed that the seller had a larger supply of them and decided to wait for the prices to calm down a little. The facts proved I was wrong.

My 028A (ETA 2892-A2) after the latest modding. True PVD + superlume + improved crown + improved cyclops + Finepics datewheel + CG lever fix. Oh, and strap stitching tone matching with the dial markers too. A date shot in case anyone is especially interested: I am quite proud on how the date looks as I think it is almost 100% with the gen. It has been a long way, as the ETA 2892-A2 has a small second lens, added right over the date window, that made the watchmen cyclops overpowered. This cyclops is one-of-a-kind, specifically made for this watch after several trials. On the contrary, I am still unstatisfied with the crown. It is 9 months now that I am waiting for a PVD palpatine crown and there's no sign of incoming delivery. So, as a temporary arrangement, I had to modify a Davidsen's crown and make it fit into the original tube.

26mm

http://www.rctritec.com the house of the true and genuine Superluminova. If your 111 is not a 111H (i.e. not sandwich dial) you'll also need a fine (black handle) oiler to properly put the luminous paste to the markers. Warning: this is a risky and unforgiving task.

Yes you need a 24mm at the lugs end. But they come with either 24mm or 22mm at the buckle end. I personally like 24/24 most, but if you want to use it with a 'Panerai' marked buckle you need to get a 24/22, as you will find only 22mm buckles marked.

As far as I know, only a few members here have a 2892-A2, and they are likely to already have gotten Finepics' datewheels (I am one of them). I might be interested anyway, as I have some concerns about Finepics' datewheel perfect alignment. I still have to extensively test it (I mounted it, but the watch is not completely reassembled due to lacking of palpatine's PVD crown.)

Ah, so. I would have got quite surprised it wasn't.

I got tons PAMs and not even one BJ by a chubby chick here...

Awesome! A great way to use your more-than-100-bucks crown! But... any improved cyclops there?!?