sssurfer

I have no 6497, but there is a screw/pin in the movement that allows for speed trimming. Did you already check the fabolous The Zigmeister's reviews in his section? Here is a starting point: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=12765 Else, you can take the watch to any watchsmith: it is a very simple job.

Are you interested in all models, or just The Best Sub?

Bricktop, where are you?

Here's another source asserting that 063 is C series only: http://www.lacotedesmontres.com/Production-No_128.htm

Well, it seems now confirmed that the watchmen cyclops perform better on a 063 than on a 028 (as my 028 and other's 063 suggested as well).

Yes, Shasta, I'm doing that, but I seem not able to get a fine enough grain. So far I tried with mortar + pestel (marble), and also with a glass bottle rolling on a glass plate. Maybe I just have to grind more, I'll try again. How long did you grind it? I also ordered a 120 microns sieve from the bay, I hope this will help.

A stunner, Lello, congrats!!! Gen-like at a fraction of its cost! Watch knowledge and RWG skills at their best. I have to say that the super-cyclops works much better on your 063 than on my 028A. I suppose that is because the 063 reahaut fits very well with the new cyclops, or because the additional lens on the 028 date window makes the magnification almost excessive (or both). Glad also to see that deployant clasp on your strap. Looking at your strap now I understand why you found no reason to leave the small clasp tubes out: your strap is a different thickness than mine. Should you find the palp crown a little too thick, you may always swap back to a Lello's crown...

Mail sent. Congrats!!!

~$850.00. That's all what we all need.

Very interesting! Keep us informed, Chris. Actually, I'm having troubles in getting an even, smooth surface using powder + medium.

Whew! You made me worry, as I'm trying their powders right now: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=17532

?!? Quoting from their site: lasts up to 14 HOURS depending on color: green- 12-14 hrs, Aqua- 10hrs, blue- 8hrs, Violet- 2 hrs, White- 2 hrs, Pink- 2 hrs, yellow- 2 hrs, red and orange 10 minutes

tnx for the info you too

Hi, I wish to order some glass crystals from Cousinsuk, but they do not provide detailed descriptions for their crystals, just size and initials according with the Sternkreuz classification system. Does anyone know what those initials mean? I am expecially interested in the initials CMH, MS, MF and MFH. My guess so far is that M stands for Mineral glass, and possibly S for Small, F for flat, and H for High. Very unsure, though, and that "C" stays a mystery... Btw, I already painfully learned that with "domed" they mean concave-convex crystals, not plano-convex.

Great tip, V, thanks! But, as I said, that is a fix for the 'loose lever in open position' -- a completely different beast from the one in closed position. The open position one is simply due to the [reps] lacking the small rubber tube around the lever pin, while the closed position issue is due to too much distance/room between the lever and the crown -- which also affects water resistance. So, simply making the lever harder to move by increasing the attrition between it and the crown guard does not actually make for a true fix of the closed position issue, while it is the perfect fix for the open position. Btw, also silicon works like Loctite to the open position fix.

Glad it worked, zen. I am quite positive that adding a second gasket to the one already present would cover the remaining 5% now. If you go for it, just be sure to use some elastic glue (e.g. silicon or diving rubber glue) to seal the two gaskets together, not ordinary epoxy glue. Epoxy are too hard and unelastic, they crystallize in a few days, and they simply can't stand the repeated pressures that come from closing the lever.

Sam, you should take the crystal off the watch and measure its diameter by a digital caliper. That is the only way to get sure of what size you need.

And the few ones already here are eagerly waiting for Finepics' datewheels... Jokes apart, if you are really interested I found these two links: http://perfect-clones.com/pn02701-leather-...8922-p-444.html http://perfect-clones.com/pn02801-leather-...2892-p-445.html Also Andrew claims that you may have his models, flat or hobnail dial, with the case you want, SS or PVD. Here are the links: http://www.trustytime.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=642 http://www.trustytime.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=643

Amazing first post, cortopar! You are going to be an asset to the forum. My warm welcome.

That fix is the best one (the only one) when the lever is loose in the 'open' position. On what elprimerozen said, his problem seems to be a loose lever in the 'closed' position. In this case, acting only on the pin would not preserve water resistance: this needs the lever pushing onto the crown guard. To this type of problem, the real solution is that from pugwash. If filing the CG feet is not enough, adding a second o-ring (gasket) below the crown (where the crown sits on its tube) may help. Filing the CG feet may not suffice beacuse one cannot file them beyond a given amount without ruining the threads of the CG screws. On filing the CG feet one also needs to be careful in preserving their curved shape to fit the case. Just file a little amount, then test the lever, and so on.

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Oh my! "Jetmid is My Homeboy"! I missed that!! Actually, I have to say I'm also missing Esmarc, too...

Jimmy Fu (jimmyzfu on ebay) sells crystals that, while not sapphire, are quite scratch-resistant and cheap -- you might get one for 15-25 USD, depending on the auction. They are top-notch glass with anti-scratch coating and AR coating. They also come with a teflon gasket. They are 35.5mm, and the gasket make them usable to replace 35.6-35.7mm crystals as well. Another option is asking Andrew. He is very helpful, if he can sort a crystal for you then he will do.

Essentially, an oiler is a needle provided with a handle. They just come in several precise sizes, also very thin. An auto-oiler is more like a fountain pen with a syringe needle in place of the nib. I tried using a 'Rapidograph' (I don't know its English name, it was a tool for professional drawers before computer graphics), 0.8mm. The relume matter obstructed it even when overdiluted. It seems that the classic method using a thin oiler and hand skills still holds as the best. I am now just focusing on some new medium. The usual medium is completely unforgiving, just one single small error and your dial is ruined. I am now searching for a forgiving one -- one that you may wipe out or clean in case you make a minor error. Hence, the UV glue I said.