Drulee

Wish he sold them without the strap, even $3 is too much for those things That is if it is the standard rep gator print they use..

What is "no longer" anyway? Just the luming, which needed reluming anyway?

My ETA7753 250 was relumed by Hijack (I bought it from him), who also did the small numbers on the sub dial. At the time I also had a 7750 250 that had been relumed by The Zigmeister, but he hadn't relumed that sub-dial. The Hijack reluming was just as strong and the same colour as the The Zigmeister one, so I was quite happy However, the only one that I'd want now is the 251, maybe 196, neither have luming on the small sub-dial numbers. The Zigmeister has said that he relumes those small digits as well.

I've heard from multiple members that the latest deployants (included with the A7753 Daylights that have gator print straps, or sold for $45 from the Cartel) are significantly better in design than the old ones. In particular the latching mechanism is highly improved. Is there a review of the two types yet? Can anyone, who has both, confirm the quality improvement? Comments

Link for Trevor's doesn't work for me ... and I've never heard of TimeShop. But I've heard good things about ReplicaMake.

Is that the same 'innovative' material used in the watch that this poor guy's PAM was made of?

Definitely not, but you can buy stems from AlphaUSA, just send them an email and ask for price without crown (unless you want a cheap rep Rolex crown too).

The 2Geek (Taka) DW is definitely more accurate than the ETA one, and I don't believe the H series 188 has a roller-ball lever.

i'd want to get it relumed anyway, so no big deal for me. The real question is whether or not they have fixed the CG problems But for those who would not be reluming, that is gawd awful luming

Everything is not always done for a reason, sometimes things are overlooked, not considered a priority, or maybe just not thought of as a flaw by some. Designs, including great ones, are often improved upon by people who like to tinker and see why things have been done one way, or why they can't be done another - you, of all people should know that I think just so long as you are fully prepared to end up with a broken movement, one should go ahead and 'mod' to ones heart's delight, and share your findings. Of course updates on the movement's operation in the long run would contribute to demonstrating no harm has been done. And these 'experiments' should only be done by those who understand the mechanics of the movement, which I would say Francisco does. I applaud Francisco for once again entering the "Grey area" of our rep movement design and offering insight into why things are the way they are, and how one can 'tweak' it to make the way you would like it to be

Someone posted links to the ETA manufacturing specs PDFs a while back, should be in one of the reference sections. Or just go to the ETA site, in the warchmakers classroom ...

I think it is still a nice looking dial, but since I've also got a modded DSN 228 (well now only the dial and caseback are still DSN parts ) I would want my 224 dial to match it in colour and finish.

Unfortunately, I had read quite a few posts saying that CapeCod would not do the trick .. should have just tried it anyway When I get a few spare minutes I've been going over it with 2.5micron, then 1micron, and finally 0.5micron. It seems to be slowly getting there .... will probably just stick to 1 and 0.5 micron, then finish it off with a buffing wheel and some rouge ..

Date window, date wheel, cp, ... everything that has been mentioned It's funny how they highlight the rotor, too bad that movement is a dead giveaway Considering the gen has a fairly simple looking flat bridge that the rotor is attached to, you'd think they would have been able to make something that looke a bit like it ...

Good to know I'm not going nutz .... again. I've been getting them as well.

You may also want to try "Tantalum", the alternate spelling.

Sheen is definitely a troubled person, who will probably have to have a heart attack before even thinking about what he's doing to himself and others. My driver, of a few years past, used to work part-time for a limo service as well. He got to know Sheen pretty well from picking him up at the airport and driving him into town, and was always requested by Sheen when he came to Toronto. Seems Sheen isn't the type to just close the divider, instead he would always carry on a conversation while in transit. He told me that Sheen seemed to be a very lonely person, and would often get called by him just to drop in his hotel room and chat for a bit. Of course this usually included many 'trips' made in the middle of the night which didn't help him much. But that was about 15 years ago, so maybe his character has taken a nose dive since. His brother, Emilio, on the other hand seemed to be quite a nice guy. I was at a friend's bar once and didn't realize that I was nearly crushing Estevez against a wall until a buddy told me - he's such a little guy, I didn't even notice him standing there But I got to talking to him and he just seemed quite humble but personable and not full of himself of at all. Of course that conclusion was reached only after an hour of chatting and a lot of drinking

What is it about the 228 that you want to keep? If it is just the Limite Edition back, you could buy a black dialed GMT PAM and simply switch the backs. If it is the brushed main case, then you could do the same but instead of switching backs just refinish the polished case to a brushed finish. If it is the velvet like finish of the dial that you would like in black ... then you're out of luck, as they don't exist.

Yup all AR was removed. I started with 14 micron for a few minutes. Then I stepped down .. 2.5 micron one session, 1.5 the next, and finally 0.5 micron (reddish). The majority of the AR, basically all except around the edge, was gone after the 14 micron session. It took a few sessions with the 2.5 to get rid of it all. Unfortunately I didn't put it directly under a lamp with a loupe until after the half hour session. I've been doing a few 2-3 minute sessions with the 0.5 and a cloth (used my finger tip in the beginning ), but there still seem to be a lot of very fine scratches. They actually aren't noticeable until I place the sapphire directly under the light bulb (2 inches away) at certain angles, and look very closely. When I have time I'll do a few more sessions with the 0.5 micron paste. Oh, and I've been using warm water with mild soap in it to wash the Sapphire between paste sessions

That's a beauty, and the best looking CG/CG lever I've seen to date (you lucky ba^%&rd) And yes, the slight resistance with the pusher is normal. I get the same with my ETA 7753.

I just screwed up my sapphire crystal. I have a few of those nice thick DSN Sapphires, which unfortunately have the light blue AR as well. So tonight I decided to remove it using those Diamond paste syringes. Being the idiot I am, I completely overlooked the fact that Diamonds are harder than Sapphires, especially synthetic Sapphires. Everything was going great, and quickly, as I started with 14 micron and worked my way down to 0.5 micron paste in about 4 steps. The whole process took about half an hour, using just the tip of my finger to rub the past over the back of the Sapphire. Most of the AR had been removed after the first 14 micron rubdown, but some remained around the outer edges. Well after I had finished and washed the crystal down with some soapy water, I had a close look at the crystal surfaces under a loupe at different angles under a bright light only to find many hairline scratches all over the surface Any thoughts on a good way to remove them? I read somewhere about using polishing rouge, but isn't that abrasive as well?

You're not far wrong I just found out that I have three rare "shadow" Titanium casebacks, and a steel one too. But now that I've finally found a Little Hero display back (yay no more H0035) and have matched all the others to projects, I'm happy

Like I said on RWI, I've got a tonne of these, including the EnnnP one. So if I remember, once I get my Little Hero "I" series caseback I'll take some pics of them all (EL E and F, DSN and Cartel H series, old Cartel F series, Little Hero, and the EnnnP as a base), then post them here.

Really? Well boy am I glad I kept three Sapphire casebacks from all the ones I'd collected over the past year. And thank god for the Diamond tester I picked up last year, that thing has been great

Well I finally managed to source an "I" series Little Hero case back, so I think I have pretty much every rep display back made If I remember, once I get the LH back, I'll take some photos of all of them and post them here so members can compare them all using the EnnnP one as a reference point.