Drulee

Yup, that's what I think many are hung up on Thanks for the links, I've actually read those threads, but again they are not the movements in question. (but I do believe similar threads exist for the 7750 and 6497 showing the quality on the latest Asian offerings) Because the Swiss P.R. machine has drilled it into the consumer's head that unless it says 'Swiss Made' on the watch/movement, it is of lower quality and a lesser timepiece. And I am still convinced that with my scenario, Asian versions of certain 6497 and 7750 reps are nearly as good as their Swiss counterparts, especially with the above mentioned inspection and service after purchase, and assuming the watch is not going to be exposed to the extremes (Deep Sea diving, extreme climates, etc,) which the majority of gens wouldn't be.

So nice, you had to say it twice? j/k Sure, I agree with most of what you say, but that is addressing the point of my original post. To try and be a bit clearer, I am only referring to 6497 and base 7750 movements. I am not suggesting that ETA parts are going to be used to replace the defective parts found in any of the movements, just parts that have been examined and properly cleaned be they Asian or ETA. I am not considering the use of outside parties either, as I am perfectly capable now of stripping down, cleaning, and oiling both of these movements myself, so if something does go wrong I will be the one doing the work on it. I also do not intend to be cycling through many different brands of reps, just my current collection of favorite rep PAMs, and maybe one or two others

Alright, now you understand my understand my question But given what you both acknowledge, that the movement will run well, last as long with regular servicing, and will keep time reliably, how can you still state that movement isn't as good? The only possible reason I see you offering is the lack of availability of parts, which I just do not believe is the case any more, especially for the 6497. They seem to be more abundant than ETA parts, and at the cost of just having one ETA part shipped to you And you are still not taking into account that even ETA movements break down.

I just want to remind those that respond here, to keep in mind that I am referring to only 6497 and basic 7750 movements. And that the Asian movements will have been thoroughly examined, all parts that show any sign of deficiency replaced with ones that don't, thoroughly cleaned, then properly oiled and re-assembled in a sterile environment AFTER receiving it from the dealer.

I don't think that is true anymore. I seem to remember The Zigmeister actually saying that the parts in the Asian movements are no longer really inferior to the Swiss ones, especially when cherry picked afterwards (which is what would be done in the 'post manufacture' q.c. procedure I mentioned). I've also seen this mentioned on a couple of articles in other, non-rep, fora where the author of the article was a professional watchsmith and had stripped down various Seagull ST36 movements to compare to an ETA one (I'll try and find one of the links if necessary). As for that date pusher, it falls into that %2 I mention EDIT: How is it your post says "Zigg y", while mine always has that automatically replaced with "The Zigmeister"

I'm not holding my breath

I believe this forum has the most actual watch professionals on it, as it has all the top ones from the other fora as members as well, so I'm posing this question/clarification here. After learning as much as possible about our replica watches here and on other rep and impartial gen fora, I am of the assumption that when talking about 6497 or standard 7750 powered watches, the only difference between the so called 'gen' and its Asian counterpart is the lack of Q.C. and proper servicing of the Asian ones parts. Of course, I am only talking about function here, not aesthetics. With this in mind, if the Asian counter part where to be put through a post manufacture quality control check, with all defective or suspect parts replaced. Then it was to be properly cleaned, movement serviced, and tested. Would the resulting timepiece be equivalent (or say %98 of) in quality and function to that of a Swiss one for everyday wearing? I include the condition 'everyday wearing', because I want to stress that the watch would never be subjected to an extreme environment, in other words no deep sea diving or trips to the North Pole or Mount Everest with them Or I am I living in a fantasy world, and have interpreted all the studies and articles the wrong way?

Maybe if you posted links to the homages in question, we'd be able to answer the question

Could it just be a pusher malfunction?

Yup, that's what I was thinking

A little silver paint on the end of a toothpic should take care of that Now we just wait for the review of the movement ....

So if these use the A7750 date wheels, then the window position would be the same as our current dials, no?

Alright, you've convinced me. I'll hunt for a DSN 001/040 TswT dial for the 001B, and use my 111E for another 040 build. So if anyone has one sitting around in a box Otherwise it means a detour into the city and giving money to WU when I return ...

Aren't the posts on the 7753 spaced differently than those on the 7750? I ask because I just loaded a pic of a 196 A7750 dial, then placed a dot on the centre seconds post, one on the post at 3, and another on the post at 9. I then resized another members 236 A7753 dial pic to the same as the 196 I used, and loaded it. Funny thing is, the dots from the A7750 overlayed its (the A7753 dial) posts perfectly ??? I may have just resized it a bit too large, or something like that, as I just did it half-arsed, but .....

Thanks for the suggestion babola, perhaps if one comes up for sale I may go that way. But for now I think the LswissL Puretime 111E dial I have will do. I won't be starting the build for a month or so, as I've got a few other builds I want to get out of the way first, so who knows what I'll end up with in the end

I think the hash marks and numerals are too thick for an 001B build, perhaps an 001C but I'm building one around my EL 001B caseback so .....

Yup, found it, so I'll use that dial and probably send it off to Vac, he does the same mod. As for caseback, I've already got an EL 001B back, so I'm set there

Wow, the bezel on the case in the middle is much wider. I assume it is also has a lower profile. Thanks for all the comments. Still not sure what it's worth though I suppose if the new 196 case turns out to be as good, I can always switch the CGs and put my old one up for sale as a nice 'beginner' 196

Please tell me you mean the one pictured below. If so, I think I actually have one somewhere ....

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks for the info.

What choices do I have for a good rep 001B dial? I almost bought a DSN one plus hands, with The Zigmeister 'Tritium' luming, but noticed it had his dreaded moat around the numerals and hash marks.

On the bright side, if they do use the standard 7750 DW, this may mean that we can use current Lello, Leo, 2Geeks 7750 DW offerings which were produced in greater numbers than the 7753 versions, no ? Of course all speculation, until one of the experts strips one down..

Have you unscrewed the CG yet? If you do, verify that the top of the lever is flush when closed. If it isn't then it is a problem that we don't have a solution for yet. However, if it is, then you may be able to sand down the tube and stem, to lower the crown just enough so it doesn't push up when closed. But this should only be done by someone who has done it many times before and who knows how, you should have an extra stem hand too

Most people would not suggest swimming with these reps until you get them tested YOURSELF, don't rely on a dealer's claim that they are pressure tested. Also I don't think DSN's crown and CG are accurate for the 003A, but I may be biased as I'm selling one right now in the sales section (price negotiable ).

By the way, I just had a look at a couple gen 250 profile pics, and the inner hexagonal shape of the outer date pusher ring is actually correct