Drulee

Thanks, I'm fairly happy with it. But two things are bugging me (not enough to sell it though ). For one, the serial number on the third lug is missing. I'm not sure if a local engraver would be able to add one or not, haven't found one yet anyway. Then there is the case back. If only there was one with the same sized font and with deeper engraving, that would be nice. Oh, and the CG lever could use bead blasting, and of course a slightly thicker CG would be ideal. Otherwise, I'm quite content with the way it turned out

Ok, so that means I can't use the presence, or lack, of the needle adjustment on the shock assembly as a way to identify low from high beat. So how can one tell them (regular, non-GMT or chrono, PAMs) apart then?

I built three, sold two, kept the Ziggified one with T-Swiss-T dial and tritium like lume. Bought a ton of old 177s and found a few good Ti cases and CGs, of which I picked the best for the keeper. Ordered an OttoFrei 6497.1 Incabloc movement and changed the larger cogs to Sunburst ones with the teeth polished and only a small bit of the main surface area (the ones in the pics are actually older cogs). Then attached the nicest metal polished OP plates I could find and changed a few screws. Put on a nice A-F shaped CG. Added a T48. Used the display back with the larger text but not as deeply engraved as some, as all the engraved ones I came across used too small a font. And then to top it all off, I found a nice and thick AR-free (probably incorrect but Purple, Blue, or Pink do not mix well with Tobacco ) sapphire.

Did I understand you guys correctly, all rep PAM A7750 with GMT complication watches are B1/low-beat/-1 movements? None of them are the newer high-beat versions? I was just asking because all the DSN GMT movements I've ever had, didn't/don't have the needle adjustment on the shock assembly, which I, obviously mistakenly, thought was a sign of a high-beat A7750.

Just picked mine up, definitely nice and thick, but unfortunately the dish was too shallow for a couple of my builds. So I'll be doing some CG lever shaving ....

Which makes them different then, doesn't it Also some of his 'beta' crowns had improperly finished teeth, but it looks like that was also taken care of. Nice pics nix The DSN SS crown was always one of the worst out there, at least his Ti ones are better. Lookin' forward to picking up mine now.

Nope, those are pre-release reviews, made with T's beta crowns. I'd like to see what the ones that he actually sent out look like. For instance, the top of the SS crown on those is polished, while T said it won't be (hopefully) on the latest batch. I believe mine finally arrived though, just have to pick them up over the weekend

Ah, so you took apart the shock assembly and filed down one side of the 'notches'?

Ok, very nice. But please tell, how did you get the shock assembly with right Incabloc type top plate? It is a high beat, right?

I asked the same question a couple of days ago, on his thread, but nobody seems to have one installed yet. I had expected my crowns a while back, but surprisingly just received the tracking info the other day ... so maybe there was a delay and most members don't have them yet.

kbiz, you've been hoarding Just need to bead blast some levers.

Ughh, I hate seeing a foggy crystal, has happened quite a few times on a few of my gens in the past. All I can add, is perhaps put some loose silica gel packets (after charging in the oven) into the jar as well. Maybe that will help suck out the moisture.

Just came across this thread, and it is a bit sad to see RG resorting to this. Personally I've always found myself coming to RWG or RWI when I want informative advice on repair or mods. for me RG is mainly the social rep forum, that I go to when I'm bored, have nothing better to do, and am in the frame of mind to post or rant. The simple fact that it gets a lot 'hanger arounders' means you'll likely get a quick reply to a post and keep yourself occupied I know a lot of members refer to the RG sales area as a reason for its popularity, but I find RWG to be the go to place for reasonably priced, hard to find, parts and watches. Got my 192 here, at a ridiculously low price, and still owe that member a drink or two. Sourced both my wearable Ti/SS PAM bracelets here (note I say 'wearable' because I sourced one unwearable one over on RG, that I wasn't too happy about). When I do sell a watch, it usually gets listed here first, since I don't need to take tagged pics, then if it hasn't already sold, it goes onto the other rep fora. Simple fact, a lot of my sales never make it to RG. So I for one definitely don't depend upon them for selling any rep, then again I try not to ask ridiculous prices for my watches (I did say try ). In all honesty, the only reason I haven't abandoned RG completely, is because of SFA. He has always come across as quite honest and since becoming an admin over there has put a lot of himself into the forum. In fact I recall getting a PM from him during the Sylar fiasco letting me know about some of the behind the scenes goings on and passing on him email in case of a mass mod/admin exodus So my loyalty is to that admin and not to the forum. I commend Admin for this thread, as it is always good to know the type of people you are dealing with. In this case it reinforces my view of the RWG ownership as pure integrity, and unfortunately casts yet another shadow on the RG ownership (note I say ownership, not admin/mods). The simple fact is, if you are dishonest in one aspect of your business, in all likelihood you won't hesitate to be dishonest in other areas. Honesty and integrity are hard to find these days, good to see they are a main part of this forum. Kind of give one a warm feeling inside, know there is still hope in this world

Has anyone compiled a list of AR colours on the various crystals throughout the different series and models? From various posts it seems that some of the earlier series had a light pink AR, some of the later autos a faint blue. It is quite inconsistent, so if you AR isn't a strong Blue or Purple, it may not be worth the removal. But if it is that awful Purple or strong Blue, by all means Dremel away or rub it off with Diamond paste (which is what I've done a couple of times with good results)

Anyone get theirs yet? Would love to see how they look installed I think I just got notice of shipping, so I've still got a bit of a wait....

Nope, but DSN now has the capability too do it, if he can rep the dial. But Ti/SS bracelets are very hard to find.

Has anyone come up with a way to simulate the bead blasting, other than sending it off to Avitt?

As always, a wealth of information Oh well, another member had asked for a CG that was flat on top, thinking it was correct for the A series. Now I've got to go CG diving again, to see if I can find something suitable for my 001B, 029, and 063, as I believe the CGs on them are all flat

Ok, I'm a little confused now. You say the Pre-A is exactly the same as an A-F CG? I was under the impression the Pre-A was flat on top, but the A-F ones definitely are slightly curved. Does anyone have a pic of the aforementioned JimmyFu one? I just let go of a couple of mine, which were identical to the ones that came on my 029 and 063, but held back some for my current builds. So I'd like to make sure I'm using the right ones .....

Thanks w0lf, exactly the info I was looking for (maybe I should post up some more pics of what I thought were just regular manual wind PAM cases. As for the last suggestion, I've got the LH C and Ofrei ETA 6497-1, but have a feeling it is the process of acquiring the other parts that will get frustrating

So I finally got around to taking some undistorted non-macro pics of some loose cases I have. I'm just looking for what the experts think any of these would be best suited for, whether it be an 001B or the trash bin. First three up: Last two:

That's what I thought I'm sure they will all be perfect, judging from your past offerings. I look forward to receiving mine.

It is actually noticeable. Most of the DSN titanium spring-loaded crowns have the flattened edge on the teeth, and it makes the teeth less pronounced. If they didn't have that flattening they would be nearly identical to a regular T48, just a shallower dish and spring-loaded. Don't forget, the reason we're lusting after your crowns, is because most of us have that 30x magnifier and are constantly going over every mm of our watches with it

T, I was just looking at the final crowns that you posted, and noticed that the teeth on the SS one are not consistent. Some teeth come to a point, like your T48 and T60 crowns, but others have a flat top. I've circled the flat ones in red, and the pointed ones in green in your pic, to show what I'm talking about. Is this just the one that has these flaws, or are they all like this.

These hands are very thin and easy to bend out of shape. I would suggest, after removing them, get two phone books (or heavy books if you don't use those antiquated things anymore) that have absolutely flat covers. Then place the hour and minute hands on a sheet of watch tissue on one of the very flat covers. Now fold the tissue over to cover the hands. Then lower the other heavy book with very flat cover onto the tissue and hands. Don't apply any further pressure, just leave them for a few hours. You should probably place the hands on the tissue, with the face down, so the tubes are pointing up. When the time has elapsed, remove the top book, open the tissue, and your hands should be nice and flat. It may be faster doing it other ways, but this eliminates the risk of warping or bending your hand set by applying too much pressure. As for your Vac luming, any pics? I've received a couple of dials in the past that have claimed to be Vac lumed but don't seem to be. Vac's PAM mix is a distinctive aqua-green colour when glowing (and it is a strong glow), unless you've got the Tritium mix, is yours?