Drulee

Calling Jakob, we've got another case back for ya

What if you're not replacing an existing crown? Meaning I don't have extra o-rings for them As I didn't order any stems, does this mean that my crowns have been shipped? Sorry, I also forget to ask if these are identical to the crowns sent to a few members, who then posted reviews of them?

I need a pic of this movement, found in the GMT II, with the rotor removed, so I can do some work on it. I purchased a GMT IIc a little while ago, which was supposed to just have the rotor removed. When I received it, I found that not only had the rotor been removed but the movement plate it was attached to, along with another retaining plate and some cogs had been taken off. As the watch was deeply discounted, I decided to just try and replace/re-attach these parts myself was in order. Unfortunately I've never worked on this movement, so I could use a pic or two, or even a link to flash or other pictorial of its disassembly. As this is a direct copy of the ETA, it shouldn't matter whether the pics are of an ETA or Asian version. Thanks

Incabloc shock assembly? If yes, then I'll take 2 or 3, maybe more.

Looking good. Where did the CG come from?

Looks good, strap suits it well. Hope you'll enjoy it for many a day @repwatch, would you happen to have a picture showing the profile of the CG on your 086?

Just thought of trying an old neoprene mouse pad, rolled up tightly. Worked great. Thanks for the suggestions though

Used my last roll of duct tape last week on a wise crack'n gen Diamond encrusted Rolex wearer ... after stuffing my last racquetball down his gullet. So those aren't options I only bought the one to see how it looked and to show a friend, who has a large collection (maybe see if I can fool him for a bit ). So I don't want to scratch up the back .... Any other ideas? I'm trying to get it fixed before Saturday, so no time to order anything in. I do have one of those cheap Chinese three pronged adjustable case back openers, but don't see any bits that will match up with this back.

Just picked up my first, and probably only, Rolex rep. But need to work on the movement. As I'm a PAM guy, I've got no idea how to remove this back without adding some serious scratches. So any suggestions would be nice ......

It looks all misty to me

Just my 5 cents worth ... My first computer was an Apple ][+, my first real 'proffesion' was as a Systems Consultant, where I spent way too much time troubleshooting problems caused by Windows, and teaching 'execs' how to use Windows software.My first exposure to the Mac, as a Systems Consultant, was when making a purchasing decision for one of Toronto's largest community service organizations (100+ employees, even more volunteers), and at that time using a Mac was not the right way to go for them. The Mac was geared to be a Desktop Publishing and/or Graphics Design platform, but not much else - no matter what they claimed. If you had to deal with and/or share data with PC users, you had to buy a PC. After 10 years in a seemingly futile profession, I moved on to a more lucrative career that required very little computer usage. About three years ago, I began an early retirement (I'm in my early forties). After realizing that I wasn't cut-out for the 'simple life', I've started up a few pet projects and began to use computers again. As a result, I also located these rep fora and started my first ever hobby However, I also became quite fed up with dealing with MicroSoft bloatware and having to take into account that my system will probably crash/freeze a few times a month (something I knew to be a common occurrence from my tech days, and found to be even worse with the introduction of Windows Vista). So I bought MacBook Pro, to see how OSX would suit my needs - now that I'm looking for a computer to increase my productivity and help turn ideas into business models, not simply to be compatible with the rest of the computer using sector. I was blown away, the quality of the software available for it was just so much better in design and implementation. The stability of the operating system is amazing as well. I have yet to have a program freeze on me, or have the system enter a kernel panic (what windows users call the 'blue screen of death'/BSD). In fact I really only know about KPs, because I decided to turn my existing home PCs into Hackint0shes, and while tweaking OSX to run on these systems, designed specifically to run Windows (but still have it crash all the time), I would experience the occasional KP until getting everything just right. I have been running OSX 10.5.8 on one system, that I use for sharing media files among my other Macs, for nearly two years now with one crash (and I am not exaggerating or BS'ing you). In fact the only time the system has been down, was when the neighborhood had a blackout, but when the power was restored OSX booted up without problems or hard drive corruption (another Windows headache). The simple fact that I could get OSX running in a much more stable manner than Windows, on a system designed specifically to run Windows, has made me a bit of a Mac enthusiast - but definitely not a fanboy As for Guanaco's post containing a link to some asinine site giving the existence of "MacFixIt" as proof that Mac are just as prone to problems as Windows ... get real Yes there is a great site, actually a few, where you can get quick answers to what may be the cause of a particular glitch or crash, nobody should expect any computer to run problem free all the time, even though you may start to believe they do if you've been using a Mac for a while. But you may have noticed the 'FixIt' part of that site name, unlike a lot of Windows problems, Mac problems are easily fixed by everyday users, not Tech Support. I do understand though why a lot of people who have made a career out of providing tech support for MicroSoft based systems, would be anti-Mac though But for those wanting your computer to help you, and not hinder you, in your day-to-day life, swallow your pride and give OSX a test drive for a couple of months (don't worry, you start off by using the majority of Windows programs you already use, then slowly migrate over to more productive software).

Very nice, I didn't realize that my 040 back had a unique S/N until now I just need to find a half decent dial like yours, which is a bute. Did the FGD dial come with a Tritium like lume application?

kbiz and wheaton, any idea which movements those date wheels are for? None appear to be for a 7750.

I made no reference to cost, just managed to finally verify (via these pics) that is an EL dial. Nowhere did I mention what a great deal it was, especially considering it has already been Vac lumed, included the correct shaped hands (not the tapering ones), and has an EL case back which usually sells for just a bit over what I paid .... see what you made me do now Besides, as I said before, since I've been coming across so many great deals this past month, I'm sure that there is as speeding truck or bus out there with my name on it

And thank you for confirming that I have an EL 029 dial on mine

just read that thread. I don't see what the problem would be if you used a thinner paper or mylar, and maybe even sanded off the existing print on the wheel - especially with the GMT movements that have a lot of space between the top of the DW and the under surface of the dial. As for positioning the DW properly, if you include a couple of the DW teeth in the graphic when printing it out (assuming the teeth are in the original pic), they would help in positioning it, then you just cut the excess part of the overlay that contains the teeth. Plus once you manage to get the overlay properly fit, you could then spray on some clear varnish/paint on it.

Nice comparison. I can see that the gen is a bit thicker/taller and has cleaner engravings closer to the edge. But the EL could easily pass for gen until subjected to macro photo-shoots or the unlikelihood of a loupe touting Paneristi being within punching distance Now why can't they do the same with the A-F/G and H+ Luminor series crown guards?

Did you manage to test the crystal with a diamond tester? I found that the water drop test wass quite unreliable, the diamond tester is really the only way to go.

DSN has started to tell his regular customers that it will be ready in June, along with a few other upgraded offerings. The previous release dates had mainly been speculation.

If you can, wait a month. The rumoured new models are supposed to be coming out at the end of June. If they haven't appeared by then, don't bother putting of your purchase any longer

Wow, unbelievable. Very nicely done. And where did you find a 7754, and at what cost?

Yes I realize that, doesn't mean you can't still mod it. I've got a couple pics of those movements, like the one below. As you can see they are CdeG engraved, with quite simple Panerai egnravings - even easier to mod than the A+ ones. The CdeG styled 6497 with incabloc is available from a few eBay sellers, and even Tourby However the biggest disadvantage of taking this route (movement looking gen), is the sound of the movement. And the earlier gen movements look to be low-beat. Plus no needle.

This is a very good forum, run by open minded people, I'm sure a link or names would not be frowned upon They also made metal engraved plates for the E-G series movements, but if you buy some make sure all pieces are included - I've been waiting months to try and get some missing sections from a purchase I made here By the way, they aren't "stickered", just very thin metal plates with the engraving and nice polishing on one side and nothing on the back. So you will have to decide the best method for attaching them to your bridges. I always remove the bridge, then use an adhesive (still looking for the best one). Having the bridges removed makes it easier to properly centre and affix the plates. As for not "worrying about them", I always say just because it may be out of sight, doesn't mean that YOU don't know what's missing Which is why I've tried to put movement with the proper A-G plates, or CdeG shaped bridges, into all my closed back PAMs Give one a little warm feeling too

I think it is more to accommodate the thicker movement, than the higher hand set. What series is that 088, in those comparison shots?

Same Seagull ST36 that most of our 6497 reps have in them, even includes high CP. JacksonTse also sells this one, for about the same price (~$40), with shipping included. It is a high beat, just like the Panerai in-house ones, and if you get it serviced it will perform just as well as an ETA 6497. Oh, and it comes with an uncut stem - so high CP (some try to charge ~$20 for the similar H3 alone), new stem, mounting tabs/screws, Swan Neck, high beat, Cotes de Geneves engravings, proper shaped dagger for PAM builds, all for $35, can't really go wrong with that