Drulee

Are you sure that is an 036B? The dial seem to be black, not tobacco (brown). How about a shot of the case back? I just posted pics of the 036 I've been working on here. Actually, after taking a second look at it, it looks more like a DSN 040 - due to the infamous DSN flipped pin crown guard.

The OP number is right, but the EE number is wrong, it should be a BB number (BB980nnn). There should also be a third Bnnn/200 serial number on the opposite side, which mine doesn't have either. I believe DSN is the only one who made cases with all three number etched on the three corners.

I bought a bunch of Ti manual winds (around 7 of them ), and managed to get three of these CGs. One went on my 082, another went onto one of the other 036Bs I've been building, and the third went on this one. I also had to do a little lever switching to get one that closed nicely on the T crown. As for where those manual winds came from, all from RG/RWG members - mostly members who came back onto the forum just to sell their purchases from a few years back. So, yes, I would say that they are old stock cartel CGs.

Couple of quick and dirty (or dusty in this case) shots. Just need to finish up the CG pin on this 036B with The Zigmeister's "TSWISST" and "Tritium like" lumed dial, Swiss Incabloc 6497 with sunburst cogs, very thick AR-free sapphire, older style titanium case, B series style ti CG, more accurate display back with larger OP lettering, ti T48, and lovely Heroic18 Navy Green Gator. I also have a couple other PAM 036B builds, nearly finished, one with LSWISSL dial, and the other with an older DSN TSWISST dial (that I'm debating whether to get The Zigmeister lumed).

Ah, I was just wondering why the levers on the 36B and 82C are a different shade of ti than the rest of the CG.

Here are a couple pics of a gen 111I case set. It is a little hard to make out the dimple, but it is there - you can see the upper area of it cutting into the reflection of the strap lug in both pics.

It has a very narrow/low strap dimple, that could probably be mistaken for a dent In the diagram below, it is a bit like A, but tapers down more at the ends.

All the "gold plated" reps tend to look terrible after repeated use. But here is some other Rad Chrono love for ya

Primarily the strap dimples between lugs, or lack of dimple, and the shape of the lugs.

Took some pics of a bunch of my manual wind titanium cases the other day, so I figured I'd post them here for your perusal, reference and/or opinions. If you ask which case came from which dealer, chances are I won't know - as most came from sales threads on the forums. But there is one DSN and one JacksonTse in there.

What am I, chopped liver?

If the hole/tube was installed any lower or higher than the exact centre of the case, then the stem would not be able to insert into the movement's hole enough for it to function.

Was the pic directed at me? If so, like what?

Top EL, bottom gen (gen bezels have a more rounded edge).

How do we play "the case game"? EDIT: Now I know

Yup did the same, looked for "Trains and hobbies" store in the local YellowPages and bough the same Testors bottle for $3.60 CDN (we always pay more up here ). bb, I'll send another two or three I've got sitting around. I've pretty much matched all my parts with their appropriate projects so I don't see myself using these in the near future.

I asked the same question a couple of days ago, over on RG. One member said that he uses matte black model paint (use for locomotive engines?) - the type in those small glass containers. Shake it well and use a paper towel to "dab" the paint on, no brush otherwise it will be to thick. Haven't tried it myself yet, but will soon. blackbard, did those items arrive yet?

That certainly is one formidable timepiece. Lookin' good.

Very nicely modded 088, looks great. And I must admit that the ToroBravo CG is one great crown guard. You may want to take a look at your clasp though, it looks like a pin is about to come out.

PAM, not Pan, is usually how we refer to them Helenarou is a good source for cases and other parts. But for screws, movement plates, stems, etc. there are much better (and cheaper) sources. You may also want to try searching on eBay (a user Carbinet900 or something like that, is a good example of a cheaper source). But thanks for making note of Helenarou for those who don't know about her, and don't hesitate to post any new finds

I find the easiest way to remove the crowns from stems is to use a pin vice, insert the stem in, tighten, slowly turn the crown CCW (too quick or too hard and you may break the stem -or so I hear). I have been able to remove every crown that I've tried, whether loctite has been applied or something stronger.

Thanks for reminding me. I own a couple of Heroic18 Gators, but recently was luck enough to have a blue gator made for me by Blackbard (RWG member). And it is just like my Heroics, well made, super soft on the underside with the liner, and well made. I'm overdue for pics, so I'll be putting aside some camera time for it very shortly.

Not sure it needs "modding", perhaps tapping it down a bit to make it flush. If you are going to do that, I find that using the flat end of a set of tweezers with a jewelers (or small) hammer does the trick. Just tap lightly, no HITTING

My eyes must be going in my old age But the Sead/Nembo appears to be thicker on the bottom, but a little thinner on the top, than the one in your first pic. I just don't see the "embarrassingly thinner" aspect, that's all I'm saying.