Drulee

DSN 040, DSN 172, DSN 091 ... see a pattern forming here

Normally I'd say it is probably the keyless that needs fixing, but that stem looks like an A7750 stem, and I'm fairly certain the 029 uses that movement. So it may actually be the wrong one. If another member can confirm that is the right stem for the 029 movement, that would help in eliminating that as a potential cause. Do you know if anyone was ever able to set the time, or if someone changed the crown/stem recently?

Ask DSN for a set of 091 hands - those are the ones that came with my DSN 086 and are much closer to what the 086D gen has. I'm in the process of transplanting the innards of my DSN 086 to a brushed case, to see how I like it

No kit that I know of, but if you do a search for some of kbiz's threads (088 and 089), you can see how he did the mod.

Great collection with a good variety. You can always order DSN's new updated 172 "Tantalum" case back, to replace the damaged "Titanium" one.

Nice, but if that has The Zigmeister lume then a lume shot, or two, is mandatory

Those rep bracelets can be finicky when it comes to fitting on different cases. Worst case, you may have to do a little filing, and/or drilling to get the lug screw holes lined up.

Over the last few months I've become quite familiar with the different parts of the 6497-1 and 6497-2, most by trial, error, and a good loupe. But the only part I have not been able to distinguish which version/beat it would belong to, is the palette fork. So I ask you, how can you tell a 6497-1 palette fork from its 6497-2 brother? I'm also not quite sure what the differences are in the balance wheels, for the different versions. Is there actually any difference in the wheel, or is it just the assembly bridge that differs?

JacksonTse (MilitaryTime) used to sell tobacco sandwich dials, without any print on them at all.

I don't think a deployant of that type was ever repped, but a buckle with the shape of that end clasp was. I've been looking for one (rep rounded buckle) to put on my 204 Wempe, for a while now.... But I'd love it if they would rep that deployant

Thanks for the paint info Francisco

Very well done, as usual, Francisco. The same procedure should be used for the 308, but it has two hands (chrono seconds, small right sub-dial hand) that need to be repainted. Could you share with us the correct colour of blue you used?

Can you find out what make of paint, and colour number he used. That's the right match for the 308 as well.

Yeah, I was going yo use the 177F case back I have for my 118 build - don't think the numbers are correct, but at least it isn't your typical H series 177 back.

Very nice review, haven't had time to finish reading it all yet as it is a comprehensive one I'm just about finished my 091 build (DSN dial and hands, everything else sourced elsewhere). The genuine has a brushed SS crown guard and bezel.

How should I go about removing it? I know there are probably many ways, but I want to do it right the first time. And yes I'm talking about the old 036 cases.

How hard is it to remove the OP and BB numbers found on the corners of some titanium cases. I know these had been meant for the 036 and 082 reps, but I've got a few of these ti cases and what to remove them. I was also wondering if titanium cases without the large strap lip/bevel/indent between the lugs are as rare as the SS ones without it.

Classic.

Absolutely agree. I personally prefer the DSN silver sub-dialed one, as it adds to the "polished silver theme" of the 088 (case, CG, sub-dial, and hands), while the cartel's is more suited for a 161 rep. The movement quality will be identical, but DSN uses undecorated movements, while the cartel's usually have their rotors and inner case backs decorated with "pearlage" and Panerai markings - woopee The date wheel on the cartel version is better. The crystal and cyclops on the cartel version is closer to the genuine one. DSN's current CG is thicker than the cartel one, but depending upon what series you are trying to rep, it may not be accurate. I believe his backs are "G" series, so it is accurate for his reps. But the cartels are "I" series, so their CG is completely inaccurate. DSN's hour hand is incorrect. Finally, DSN's lume is much better than the Cartel's, as far as intensity and duration goes. However, some of his dials have a greener look to their markings when the lume is not active - but some don't.

Shiny pwnage? Is this a service you offer? I have a couple of base plates that I wouldn't mind having "pearled" up Well if it ends up looking better than what is usually found on them, I definitely will post some pics. If it doesn't ...

Look forward to seeing the results. I've been polishing up some really bad CotesDeGeneves bridges (the ones with high ridges and a greyish tone to them),that had broken jewels in them, whenever I had a spare minute or two. I used that AutoSol Metal Polish to do it, and it seems to really make an improvement - ridges lower and more of a shiny silver look instead of dull grey. If it turns out alright, I'll take some before (I have another set of the same type bridges untouched) and after shots.

I bought a MacBook Pro after taking a fifteen year vacation from the IT field. After a couple of months of using it, I turned my Windows machine into a Hackint0sh and haven't looked back since. I still keep a partition with WinXP on it (actually using it now because I'm cleaning up my hard drive), but only use Windows 0.01% of the time. Both my MBP and Hackint0sh are running OSX 10.6.2 without any problems. The Hackint0sh is indistinguishable from the MBP, except for its outer case and monitor, and has full use of all peripherals, and software. It just takes a little tweaking, and choosing the right motherboard, CPU, and video card to start with (all I had to do was upgrade my video card - which needed to be done anyway. I actually use a BlueTooth MightyMouse and Apple Aluminum Extended Keyboard with the Hackint0sh - instantly recognized by the OS. As I'm using a Vanilla Kernel it even updates through Apple Update without any problem at all (I even purchased a separate license for the PC, just because I felt I owed Apple that much ). Granted I'm a little biased, as my first computer was an Apple II+, but I do love using my Macs, especially as I now spend hardly any time on system maintenance. But I did work in the Windows world for over 10 years, so I was very familiar with its shortcomings and headaches, which haven't changed much from what I hear.

Just to update, the double corrector has to have the turned down notch, on the right side of the plate, placed above the wire/rod (which is attached to the date platform) in order for it to work properly on my GMT A7750. However, I am now back to the "slipping" problem I started with - where after turning the crown to set the date, the DW will stop advancing and the gold star cog on the double corrector will seem to "slip". I'm fairly certain this is happening because of a worn down tooth, or teeth, on the intermediate setting wheel, or setting wheel, or other cog ????

After further examination of the double connector and the date platform, I believe the connector may be positioned on the wrong side of the wire/rod attached to the bottom of the platform. I know that some PAM A7750 movement platforms may be missing the wire, but it is present on this GMT one, so perhaps this is what needs to be looked at ??? Just typing out loud here

I guess it is too old a thread for those who participated to remember the fix ??