Neuuubeh

Hey guys, I've been toying around with the idea of putting together a watch on my own ever since I saw that one can order individual parts like cases, dials, hands.. After looking at the movements that are most commonly used on most rep boards, I decided to try make a watch around a totally different movement. No Molnijas, no Corteberts.. I've always thought myself that most of them are too much overrated for what they really are.. Supply and demand and all those good stuff So I started looking at suitable pocketwatch movements. The mechanical look of american-made movements from the 10's and 20's got my interest - mechanically perfect movements with anywhere between 17 and 21 jewels, all with gold screw-down settings (chatons for our swiss friends ), gold train, beautiful damaskeening patterns.. You get the idea . The bug bite me and I bought too many of those. I currently have around 8 that are running perfectly fine and about the same not running. As a getting-my-feet-wet project I decided on a 47mm PVD case. I was thinking it might be too big for me, but seems to work fine on a almost 8" wrist. For the movement, I picked an Illinois, size 12, 19 jewels, golden train, motor barrel movement with a pretty neat looking micrometric regulator, adjusted to temperature, isochronism and 5 positions. A sandwich dial was too thick for this, so I decided to play - used 24k gold leaf on the underside of the numerals plate. After all, black and gold have always been a solid choice . This way the dial is thin enough, so I dont have to mess around with the cannon pinions. I also wanted to add some texture to the dial, take a look at the pics Originally I put a fiddy-style handset on this, but I hated it - it looked way too undernourished on that black background. So I made minutes and hours hands, a bit similar to the Angelus rounded ones. Another thing that has always bugged me is that hole in the minute hand. Well, none of that here . After making them, I let the oxidize a bit. When installing I managed to feck up the minutes one too... Will take a look at how they age, I think I'll deoxidize them and either gold-plate them or varnish them.. Serviced the movement on my own, de-oxidized the gold settings, slapped the dial in there, put the hands and all fit (after some modification) snugly into the case. Whilst I'm not 100% happy with the result, I am too tired of messing around with this any more, so it will stay like that for some time . Working on a severely limited tool-base is kinda annoying . A dremel and a couple of screwdrivers arent really helping... The pics are fairly crappy, my camera is getting too old for this . Still, I'll be happy to hear your opinions! Am planning next projects already I cant hold a candle to our The Zigmeister, but I dont mind that either

Nonoo, I dont care about the kit. This car IS with the kit tho.. in case you still cant recognize my point If I remember correctly it did 0-300 within 13.7 secs. I'm by no way a motor sports fan, but I kinda remember that . It was some years ago tho.. PS 1017 hp at the wheels, not 1300, dunno where they got that number.. oh well

Like this? I think most people can recognize whats in there

Heh that pretty much kills my hopes to replace a staff on a 21jeweled Burlington movement on my own

Well, of course you are right, hadn't thought from that point of view hehe . Do you think just machining out a groove inside, where the mainspring barrel would fit is enough? Or does one need to modify the case interior all the way from the thread downwards? I'd really like putting a size 12 (although there are some interesting size 10 movements as well ) into a radiomir case...

Dunno, seems to be a quieter place, not so much useless crap being thrown around

Very interesting to say the least.. Curious to see pictures of what the complete movement looks like when put together Is it easy to get the solder to stick to the brass under the nickel, or did you have to use some acids or whatever to clean it to make it work? Lots of people seem to be moving over hehe

Cortebert ebauches "touched" by Rolex were used in the first Panerai watches. Then Angelus and Cortebert. Unitas was only used in more recent times, with the bridge mod'ed by Panerai to mimic the said early Cortebert-Rolex movements. The finish (if one can use the term) on the one in that auction is hideous

There isnt a big difference quality-wise imo tbh. It will be much better if you have a decent watchmaker clean the movement for you anyhow.

Not a size 12 like this, most have the mainspring barrel teeth protrude a lot and since you cant trim them off, you cant get it in the case properly I think.. ofc there are exceptions Size 10 and smaller would fit tho, The Zigmeister has already posted a size 10 fitted in a 44mm case

Anyone know if getat has PVD buckles? Guess I'll have to mail him

I can point you to a watchmaker in Germany, havent used his services yet, but looks to be quite knowledgeable and capable.. Going to send several movements to be serviced by him soon . The Zigmeister might be able to do such a thing as well, hopefully he sees your thread

Maybe you can get a watchmaker to turn a staff for you. I've seen such a service offered for balance staves already, shouldnt be much different

Ty mate, I'll try on my own first. You know how everything is sweeter if you do it on your own . About the pendant set, did you just make a stem with the proper length and of course the square cross-section, or did you have to do something else? I was thinking that it would work provided the stem length is *just* right

Casebacks can be annoying, the threads have to align, everything should be flat and the rubber gasket has STAY in its groove. As for the movements themselves, I've been messing around with some old ones for a week or two, its quite surprising what they can go thru and still function properly. They are built quite sturdily..

Hm weird that the screw got loose... As for the guarantee void, how would they know it was open? Do they put like stickers in there or something??

Sapphire is available I believe, only the large 47mm cases dont get it

I guess you were expecting more text from me, but its kind of hard to post when you cant stop looking at those pictures, you know? This build is in my humble uninformed opinion perfect.. The movement itself is as good as it gets, in an amazing shape. Kind of hard to believe its almost 90 years old eh? I'm quite certain that its also as precise as a mechanical movement gets, regardless of its age - did you know railroad grade movements had to be better than a 30 secs PER WEEK deviation? If anyone thinks the best modern mechanical movements are better than that is being brainwashed by our Swiss friends. I bet this movement can be at least 20 secs a week with some calibration.. The finish on it is flawless as well, but that is rather easy to see The use of piano strings is genius on its own, I guess they even offer some basic shock-absorption (even tho they should be quite hard when compressed like this).. The case is flawless, no concerns there either.. The dial... Ah the dial looks quite amazing as well, a really nice blend between vintage and modern, really works well. The numerals with their yellowish lume go quite well with the hands, which too look as believable as it can get.. If you could post a close up of the dial I think noone would complain. You know All in all, perfect. I personally would opt for a sterile back, but thats for the future owner to decide. Either way I doubt he wont be EXTREMELY happy with this. There really isnt anything to pick at Thanks for posting this again, and thanks for describing your methods, especially the cannon pin modifications. These look a tiny bit too precise of a work for my likings, I doubt I can pull something like this off.. time to start thinking how to get at least halfway there with rather limited means PS NICE GOLD CENTER WHEEL YOU GOT THERE

Thanks mate! The problem isnt the seconds hand - its the hours. Until I somehow modify it so that its higher relative the dial, it collides with the seconds hand.. I will try to extend the tube of the hours hand and see it fits, but as I said, the stuff I ordered still hasnt reached me. Oh well . Hopefully when I swap the new dial it will look better, this one is quite beat up from all my experiments . I already have a use of this planned, I will strip the paint and brush it - I'm sure you have seen photos of that genuine brass dial in Volkers book (I saw a scan of VDB). That will be a future project tho PS BTW I lost the seconds hand I had gotta wait anyhow PS2. Really going to try and make my own hands tho! The brass-looking material I have doesnt seem to oxidize this far.. Am ordering some "finer" tools, as even my dremel is about to die..

Gotta study those pics of modifying the pinions closer . Really beautiful movement, and mindboggling work on fabricating those parts! The piano strings are definitely an interesting idea as well POST MORE PICS

Thanks guys, you are too kind.. Guess I will have to torture you further . Here is a picture of the dial-side at this moment. I didnt figure/want to figure a way to extend the pinions, and as a result the sandwich dials are a bit too thick. My solution for this watch is to only use the plate with the numbers and apply some gold leaf on the other side (staying with the gold theme hehe, 24k and so on ). I was also hoping to figure out a simple way to use a seconds hand, but this has proven impossible without somehow getting the hours hand higher relative to the dial.. So I think I'll just make a 2-hands watch - I do have like 2 more watches planned for the future, those will have seconds as well. For this one, I have a dial without the subseconds incoming which will get the gold leaf as well. The dial thats currently in there is rather abused anyhow The picture doesnt show it (not hard to believe is it), but the gold leaf picks up LOTS of light, even in rather low light it does shine. The hands themselves I tried to chamfer a bit to see what it would look like - I am already on my way of making new ones, a bit wider and chamfered. These look rather small against the black&gold dial.

This screw winds the other way I believe . Has its thread in the opposite direction as usual so to say It doesnt matter in what position the stem is, all the screw is doing is making sure the wheel stays flush and not disengage.

Hmm, I asked about that because I have come across multiple references on Illinois (and other high end American movements) having their wheels, mostly the center one, made of "hard gold" or "hard red gold", depending on the source. Now, for a noob like me with rather limited sources, other than the inet, it does get interesting.. (The same curiousity brought me to the top-end movements with "Rubies, Sapphires and a Diamond" jewels as well, but those are really out of my league) For example, I have several Elgin movements. Most with plain, brass-looking center wheels. I just received another one (broken staff, but I bought it for parts anyhow ) and for my surprise, it turned out to be higher decorated AND also comes with the same wheel (nicely beveled spokes..) that I believe is the rumored gold alloy.. Thanks for the compliments mate, I do have to admit its not as clean as your work, but still makes me quite happy . Really hope I'll get around to finishing this (also got 2-3 more planned, my gf is going cuckoo ). Its so cool hunting for the movements as well (living in EU doesnt make buying American watches easier), and there are so many that are affordable even on rather slim "allowances".. I'd love to see some more of your work, if you have time please dont hesitate to post Soz for taking this slightly off-topic.. Take care, Nick PS. Interesting link, search for "gold" - http://www.timezone.com/library/tmachine/tmachine631686151926286524 . Seems the rumors are read were true . I think most of the train (the 3 wheels with the same finish) in that picture is made of the said gold alloy

That would be an interesting thing to see! I have been wondering the same myself. Got a couple of these movements and have been toying around with a couple of ideas.. Hmmm, if only I wasnt so limited as to "fabrication means". A lousy dremel and a file doesnt help much there does it

The Zigmeister mentioned Illinois, so I will allow myself to post some rather bad pics of a similar thing featuring an Illinois movement, currently in development by my humble self . Its a size 12, 19 jewel adjusted to 5 positions movement from the late 20's (last I checked the serial number).. The Zigmeister, am I right to assume the whole train is made of "hard gold", or is it just the center wheel? The wheels in this movement do have different colors, but then I have an Illinois Autocrat and I swear those look to be of the same material, same even as the balance wheel. Do you know better? I too am in love with old movements, especially american from the 20's. Lets just say I have enough for like 4-5 such projects, yet I have my eyes on SOOOO MANY. Currently trying to diversify with some size 10 tho.. There are some amazing and unique looking ones to say the least I'm still not done with the dial so no pictures from that side... apparently the post has decided theres no hurry when it comes to packages addressed to me.. I'm also toying with the idea of creating a custom set of hands, as the fiddy ones are actually starting to appear too thin to me. Will have to experiment with a brass (or something..) plate I have and see if it oxidizes too much.. If so, I'll get an electro-plating set and plate then with some gold.. PS now I see the pictures arent really focused.. gotta buy me a new camera damn it