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ubiquitous

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Everything posted by ubiquitous

  1. Nope. No drawbacks. I build these Daytonas myself, and if they need service, I simply uncase, and send just the movement out. In fact, I have this El Primero in with Ziggy right now for a service: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=18140 Farthest thing from the truth. Rolex has no real power in this sense. Watchmakers aren't selling watches, only servicing. Rolex can't zing them for anything since it's not illegal to service or own a replica watch; to most independents a watch is a watch, and the money coming in for a repair still pays the bills. About the only threat they can impose is pulling their parts account, which, as we all know is no longer the case since Rolex stopped distributing parts; the only way one can obtain parts and service is through NOS with certain parts houses, the secondary market (which is highly inflated) or through any of the RSC, with a valid genuine, of course.
  2. My movement is the same base movement Rolex uses for the 16520; the 4030 Chronograph caliber is based on the El Primero 400. Rolex changes the mainspring/balance, and a number of other items to downshift the beat to 28.800bph (mine beats at 36000pbh). As for cost- I have $3600.00 into this one. A bit much, but considering that a second hand genuine model will run you $11,000.00, I feel that I got my money's worth. Is it cheaper to buy the parts to put this one together? Well, obviously so, if you know the right people. The difficult part is finding the parts...
  3. My 16520 Daytona posted above consists of the following: -Genuine S serial case -Genuine crystal -Genuine bezel -Genuine crown/tube -Genuine dial (MKIV Tritium) -Genuine hands (Luminova) -Zenith El Primero 400 31j (which is what the Rolex 4030 is based off of) -Genuine 503b end links -Genuine 78390 bracelet Mine: Genuine: The model that you reference is the 116250, which superceded my model in mid 2000 with the A serial run. This new model uses the Rolex in-house caliber 4130, which does indeed have the 3:00 and 9:00 subdials slightly above axis of the crown and center pinion
  4. Agree completely. This DR is lovely. I was offered one with a movement needing overhaul; a possible candidate for one of my franken-Daytonas, but I passed; no way I could butcher this one for the movement, and unfortunately not enough funds in my watch account to pick this one up to restore for the sake of owning
  5. Rolex used open 6/9's in their date fonts up until the mid 90's.
  6. Well, I have got to say... Roads were not all that bad. Granted, I had a little help thanks to Audi's Quattro system, but scooting around town was no problem in these conditions
  7. 6234 is a 1950's watch (with production extending into the early 60's).
  8. Hmmmm... Looks a bit curious to me. The dial looks more characteristic to a 6238; 6234's should have the "Anti-Magnetic" signed dials along with the arrow head shaped indicies, etc. If this is a replacement dial on a 6234 signed case, then it is hardly original, and worth no where near the BIN price. As a matter of fact, SS 6234's typically sell in the $30k range...
  9. Haha... If you guys REALLY want to ruffle some feathers, simply post a thread referencing the Odet's Rolex 3000 review on both the modern and vintage Rolex TZ forums... Everytime this topic comes up, people over there get all huffy and upset
  10. The following watch is not genuine, but I challenge you to find a flaw
  11. So, Omni... Now that you've had a chance to experience the BB rep, do you think you'll be buying the gen?
  12. M- I must say... We've been having a very lazy day here. Keeping nice and warm snuggled up with the wife and kids Think I might brave the roads and traffic soon to pick up some Chinese food for dinner... Hope the roads have been plowed Stay warm! Hope you have one of your snow bunnies to cuddle up with All the best! R
  13. Off the shelf? Dunno... I'd go as high as $4k for the right "off-the-shelf" watch; I have one very particular piece in mind, but it's a true 1:1 with genuine Rolex 1575 movement, etc. (it's genuine counterpart is selling in the $12k - $14k range as of current). Then again, my perception on the subject is a bit skewed having built my collection of frankens...
  14. None that I am aware. I proposed a Sinn 756 PVD rep in the RT watch polls, but realized afterwards that the cost of a pre-owned example is not too far off from the price of most reps these days anyways.
  15. Jewels are typically synthetic ruby, and are used at friction points to reduce wear (i.e. pivot points, etc) with a small drop of lubrication. EDIT: Here's a nice website that explains the use and function of jewels: http://elginwatches.org/help/watch_jewels.html
  16. I think you and George are the first to have this watch? Very, very nice, my friend! Looks like a very solid and heavy watch! I believe 240g is what I recall seeing? As for the dial... Saw one a month or so back- $700.00, and also a dial with slim hands set for $1450.00 just 2 months prior to that. Since then I have only seen white 116520 dials. Availability has been very cyclical as of late.
  17. Oooh... Toni- MBW? When did you pick that one up? And thanks, my friend... I love the Daytonas!
  18. 29-DEC-06; I'm going with this one to match the snow fall here in Denver... 30-DEC-06; this one hasn't seen much wrist time in a while, so it'll be on my wrist on Saturday... 31-DEC-06; back to the 16520 for New Year's Eve.
  19. We've got an encore presentation taking place again, RT. More snow yesterday/lastnight and more in the forecast for today and through tonight. Doesn't seem quite as bad this time around, but one thing is for sure... I'm ready for warm weather and sunny skies again!
  20. I like the leather strap better than the bracelet. Don't get me wrong... The bracelet is nice, but the leather seems more versatile.
  21. How about an Azimuth Bombardier? 47mm case, BP styling, AS caliber 1950 inside... Pricing is under $1k US...
  22. Is the loss of time consistent with any specific time of day? Consistent in the amount of time lost per day? Perhaps it's a problem with the hand on the pinion? Possibly an issue with slipping? Doesn't sound like a regulating issue... But maybe a servicing will help identify the problem.
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