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ubiquitous

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Posts posted by ubiquitous

  1. For grins, I put my 6239 dash bezel on my DW 6263, as it was the only SS bezel I have on hand at the moment (Warr wanted to see this combo, I believe), and I also thought it would match my 16520 a bit better :lol:

    The result... I kinda like it, even if it's not correct, per se. It's a completely different look than what I'm used to seeing, and it's shed a new light/perspective on this one...

    96987-27124.jpg

    96987-27125.jpg

    96987-27126.jpg

    See what I mean about the bezel matching the 16520's? The 'UNITS PER HOUR' at 1:00 is a nice touch in my opinion...

    Wrist shot...

    96987-27127.jpg

    It's former appearance...

    96987-27128.jpg

    Thanks for looking!

  2. Some additional help...

    The lever in your picture is the correct one for this model of movement.

    Moving this lever will vary how fast or slow the watch runs. Just

    becasue it's the correct lever on this movement, doesn't mean it's the

    correct one on all movements, some are the opposite to this one and have

    the stud arm on the inside. The 2892A2 is opposite to this model.

    This arm is the regulator arm, and the way to tell which one is the

    regulator arm is as follows:

    look at the hairspring on the balance, where the hairspring ends - this

    is the stud arm. You never move the stud arm as this affects the beat of

    the watch, and to adjust the beat, you need a watch analyzer.

    The arm that the hairspring passes through, is the regulator one. The

    danger in moving this arm is the risk of touching and damaging the

    hairspring. The only way to avoid this is to have loupe so you can see

    what your doing.

    If the regulator arm is at the most negative adjustment, and the watch

    still runs fast, then it's a sign that the movement is dry and needs to

    be serviced, cleaned and oiled. A dry movement has more friction and

    this means the balance swings less, smaller swings equal faster rate...

    RG

  3. It certainly seems unlikely that they would be sourcing a genuine El P to use in a rep - no-one here has heard of it so I would ask them for photos of the movt before you make any decision.

    One way to check would be to get a pic of the older PAM60 - 40mm flyback and overlay them in Photoshop to see if the sub dials match up.

    No one here? Really?

    96346-27276.jpg

    96346-27277.jpg

    96346-27278.jpg

    96346-27279.jpg

    96346-27280.jpg

    :headhurt:

  4. An excellent choice MG. You're gonna love it!

    I believe Im going to try something with this rep and leave it alone meaning no mods and just enjoy it for what it is

    You do know that genuine hands, dial, bezel, clasp etc. are all available for this watch, right?

    MWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!

  5. wouldn't that open the door to proper AP royal oak chronos?

    Unfortunately not :(

    The classic AP Royal Oak Chronograph has the 12 hour counter @ 9:00, the 30 minute counter @ 3:00 and the 60 second counter @ 6:00 (like the 116520 Daytona).

    However, the date also complicates things as well...

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