ubiquitous

Wow... Very fascinating video. Amazing how those hornets just ripped right through those bees...

Hell, I'd take one. I love the MN. Wish they would make one! Can't be super difficult- It's a 2892 with DD chronograph module; if the rep manufacturers can replicate that module successfully, they'd open the door to a bunch of other possibilities of rep models across lots of different brands. Quite honestly, I'm surprised a copied DD module hasn't been done yet...

Mmmmm... Girls and Daytonas. Nummy. Sometimes my wife wears mine...

But it's a rare day, 'cause I usually have it on my wrist

Arch-

The bracelet on the TWG watch is very, very nice. The SEL is a true 3pc fused construction, the size and shape of the SEL is short and curved (allowing for good lug extention/overhang), nice hollow links, small stamping for the bracelet ref, excellent clasp with thin thumb indention... The diver's extention release is properly marked and snaps into place reassuringly. It's one of the better SEL Oyster rep bracelets out there (in my opinion). The Oyster from the TW Best Classic was also very nice, but the newer style that I rec'd on my watch originally wasn't of the same quality (and they're still solid links anyways...).

Manuel,

Any other pics? Perhaps from the side and/or back? Any under the caseback?

I thought gold daytonas (white or yellow) had a bezel that had small triangles instead of notches

I guess since a picture of a genuine isn't enough to convince you guys...

116509's and 116519's come with the 'arrowhead' tachymeter bezels. The 116520's, 116523's and 116528's come with the standard tachy bezels.

For reference, you can have a look at:

http://www.rolex.com/en/

Click on:

-Collections

^Oyster Professional

^Cosmograph Daytona

You can arrow through a number of different models available; the combinations I note above are displayed as described.

Sorry, Tommy. I only have one, and it's the only working one I gots.

I can check with some sources... Do you need just the spring, or the balance complete?

This is why the rep crown and the genuine tubes will not work together.

Genuine crown on the left; replica on the right.

Notice the inside diameter, and that the rep crown's opening is smaller. This is how all of the 7mm Rolex replica crowns are that I've come across. They are simply too small to work with a genuine tube.

The 19018 in the auction is a genuine OysterQuartz DD. Looks to be a bad restoration job by an inexperienced watchmaker, my guess is an independent not familiar with this model/case, etc. The dial is a relumed example; the offcenter misaligned lume dots indicate that. I would not be surprised if this watch was in bad shape prior, and a 'budget' restoration was performed to make the watch look better (relative term) but at a low price; you get what you pay for, eh? It would be highly suggested that whomever purchases this watch send it to the nearest RSC to have it re-done, though most likely at a high cost, which may elevate the overall purchase investment well past it's actual value and current market price.

The 1680 pictured from Bob Maron's auction is genuine. The date alignment is an artifact of the picture taken at an angle with the date cyclops causing an off aligned illusion.

too bad the bezel isnt the one on the new gold daytonas.

What makes you think the bezel is wrong?

Here's a gen 116528... Looks like the standard bezel to me....

Hey Kruz-

I got this exact pop up just a few minutes ago, but it was after closing someone's linked photo from imageshack. If you happened to have opened someone's imageshack link up, that might be what you're seeing...

Yep ubi, just jam it in there and make your own grooves! And then pray that when you turn the tool, the rep tube will come out. There's always the rat tail file as back-up. LOL

BTW, have you tried the generic tubes from borel or ofrei?

I've only had experience with genuine tubes and the helfands tubes. The helfands ones work great with the genuine crowns; very good quality in my opinion. And of course, you just can't beat genuine. Nice, smooth precision with the threads. The crown glides perfectly when threading it to the tube, and is very reassuring; not much worry about cross threading (whereas the rep tubes always leave me worrying).

Has anyone ever tried using a standard screw extractor set to remove a tube?

Looks to me like it's a very good thing that the rep crowns fit the gen tubes - tubs are easy, but those crowns seem to be very hard to find.

Bill

Actually, only gen crowns will fit gen tubes and some aftermarket tubes. The inside diameter of the gen crown is much, much larger than a rep crown's; as such the tube has a larger mating thread for the crown.

I buy my crowns in bulk from my supplier- usually in batches of 10 to 12 at a time. I need to purchase more... I think I'm currently all out (it's been a very busy past few months).

hey UBI what type of glue do you use to water proof the new crown tube ?

Well, you'll want to simply use the rubber gaskets that come with the tube. There's a total of 3 on the tube, and one in the crown. The gaskets will do the job of sealing. For securing the tube to the case, a very small dab of threadlock like loctite will do the job.

I'll have to watch it a few more times, take some notes, and then I'll snap a granite-less pic to work with Then... Perhaps if I can find some time tonight, maybe after my wife and son are sleeping, I'll give it a try

Just downloaded... Looks like good stuff so far

MD-

So, that tool works well with removing the rep tubes?

Gah... One of my biggest pet peeves. Rep tubes. Once you go gen, you never go back...

Absolutely gorgeous!! That bracelet is truly exquisite, and the box set just puts it over the top!

I suspect this will be a limited edition run, and once they're gone, they'll be gone. I may have to pick one up...

Look closely...

http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/ROLEX-DAYTONA_W0QQ...bayphotohosting

please experts, what do you think??

Fake.

1) Poor proportions

2) Bad crown/pushers

and the biggest giveaway of all....

Day/Date subdials

I hadn't really set any budget for my project when I started, but all said and done the finished watch cost around $2600.00. The biggest factor for me was getting the 31j movement; had many an opportunity to get the 17j model, but kept holding out for the newer 31j. Finally, my patience was awarded with a brand new factory fresh 31j El Primero 400 (for an Ebel 1911) priced very reasonably at $800. I was about ready to shell out almost 2x that price for a complete watch to scavenge the movement from...

Hmmmm... Nice flat bezel and shallow rehaut. Looks great in my opinion.

Dial could be a little better, but my first draw of attention was to the hard parts- The dial is easily replaced.

Not too sure what the base watch will be just yet. A lot of the rep 1675's won't work too well with genuine parts like the dial and crystal, as they are based off of a 1680 rep case; the 1675 dial is much larger, and hence needs the proper case for the dial to fit. Also, the profile of the case is important as well, as the 1675 is quite thin in comparison to the Sub.

As for the transitional dial... I've not seen a 1675 with a DATE signed dial. However, I have seen some 16750's with the quickset and matte dials signed DATE

I'm collecting parts for such a project now...

Not many good 1675's out there... So, the obvious choice is to build one

Alternating between my 16520 franken...

And giving my 16610 franken a chance as well.

I'm still trying to warm up to the Sub. Perhaps when my replacement hands arrive I'll feel a little differently about it...

.....so base is back in business again?

I didn't even know he was still around?

Considering the last fiasco... Let's hope he's not back in biz

P.S. nice looking watches Longshot and Ubi !!!

Thanks, JJ. Mine didn't turn out too bad, I suppose, for something that was kinda thrown together as a fluke

Dude, this post died three weeks ago.

Does that mean there is not enough drama taking place on RWG? Must be time to bust open the scab to get some going then...