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ubiquitous

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Posts posted by ubiquitous

  1. Well... For what it's worth, pictures of my 1665 (the pics were the former owner's) were posted sometime back on TZ. The watch passed the visual as a genuine; crown guards and all.

    Here is the link.

    Toni can attest to the image, and will verify that the watch in the posting is the one I have in my possession now.

    So... At the end of the day, in many cases, I don't think the experts can really verify one way or the other from pics; there are so many variations out there that no one can be 100% certain, unless the watch is just an obvious fake (and believe me, those you can tell). I suspect this is why many of the collectors, when asked for authentication from a visual, will answer 'take it to an RSC and have them open the back to verify'. Just because sometimes it is so difficult to tell without physically handling the watch, flipping through the dates, looking at the movement beat, looking at the movement, and running s/n checks.

  2. Well... The 1680, as you pointed out, isn't quite right (but I've seen redials that look similar). The DRSD dial is a combination of MKIV and MKV dials, so still not quite right. The white SD, however, is about right, and the closest in appearance with regards to font, alignment, etc. The Rail Dial, is of course, excluded as there are some major differences with the genuine white font dial (there is no rep dial of the Rail).

    Also... Something else that MBW owners know... The dial feet for these are cut off, and the dial itself is glued to the spacer ring, as STOCK from MBW. If you look at the back of the dial, the location of the dial feet are in the position for use with a genuine Rolex cal 1575.

  3. Agree- The seller should go through the proper precautions and care of packaging a watch adequately when shipping. If the watch is damaged as a result, perhaps a full refund and return of the watch, or at least a partial refund to cover the cost of repair (if you prefer to keep the watch) is in order. In this case, a servicing of the movement, and a new crystal (T-21's sell for $35-ish; movement overhauls vary depending on who you go with...).

  4. Well... I think the dials used for the MBW's are very specific to the watch. For one... The dial sizes are very different between a proper 1680 rep (i.e. an MBW), and a modern 16610; the 16610 requires a larger dial. Second... MBW uses those Singer signed dials, which are not present on the 16610's. So... I don't believe it is a case of one dial being used for both... But, for what it is, the MBW dials are quite nice. Especially the white SD dials. VERY accurate for a rep dial...

    93764-27714.jpg

  5. Pics are compliments of the Ziggy-meister...

    93745-27720.jpg

    93745-27721.jpg

    :Jumpy:

    The movement: A genuine Swiss V23 going into my DW...

    93745-27722.jpg

    93745-27723.jpg

    So, you tell me... Think you can get that movement disassembled without damage, cleaned, oiled properly, and reasembled without any training or experience?

    For what it's worth, this movement is probably much more simple to work with than the 7750's (please correct me if I am wrong...). I wouldn't even THINK of trying to do the work of overhauling this thing on my own. This is where the REAL skill is folks. Modding the exterior of a watch is just child's play in comparison...

  6. The moisture probably only appears when there is a high level of heat/humidity. Once you go into a cooler atmosphere with a/c, the condensation disappears from the crystal... Maybe re-appearing from the heat of your body temp. Hard to say.

    Just keep a close eye on your dial- Sometimes that moisture can cause the surface paint to bubble up... And, of course, it isn't good for your movement either...

  7. Well, the sad fact is there is no perfect modern 16600 Sea-Dweller. All of the reps currently use a case that is either a 16610 Sub case, or a variation of the 16610 case in that it may be a bit thicker. The problem is... All rep SD's have too large of a crystal opening/rehaut etc. The genuine has a crystal diameter that is almost a full 1mm smaller. As a result, the crystal size is different, the bezel is different, etc. Of course, you also have other areas that need attention as well- i.e. correct sized case and case back, correct HEV, correct height/profile crystal, etc.

    Yes... I am nitpicking. But, when it's a claim of 1:1, it should be 1:1. Yes? This is not an attack on any of the dealers... Just the reality that we don't have a good 16600 yet (and I'm sure it would sell like crazy if it did exist; I see this topic quite often...).

    Best regards,

    Randy

  8. I'd remove the hologram sticker but keep the price tag one on so everybody can see how much I paid :D

    But, the price tag can get caught on something and tear off :wounded1: This happened to me a few times. So... What I started doing instead was taking a sharpie and writing the price across the case and bracelet with large bold numbers. I might have accidentally inflated the price with an extra zero or two as well... I can't quite recall.

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