ubiquitous

Nice find! €60 is quite a nice price, especially if it includes all the extras pictured in that first attchment...

You SHOULD buy a PVD... It is SOOOO different than the others...

Wholeheartedly agree... Gotta have at least one stealth PVD in the collection!

hello mr randito, how hard would it be to fabricate that? are the HE valves in reps already in the proper postion on the case?

Hmmmm... I wouldn't think it to be difficult to fab- We already know that rep manufacturers have access to Ti and can machine it... I think that there are bigger areas for improvement though, i.e. the case dimensions, etc. that can be improved upon first before worrying about the valve

I might have a spare... I'll need to check my parts box, but if I do, I can send it your way...

So, I suppose that the only real way to get a correct looking He Valve is to have it made in titanium as well, since that's what the genuine uses for the 16600...

Nevermind the fact that the genuine 16600 has a crystal that measures almost 1mm smaller than a 16610's, and is significantly thicker as well.

The immediate difference is not so apparent at first glance, but if you've seen and handled enough of both, it becomes quite apparent that the Sea-Dweller's dial looks a bit more crowded, and that the bezel insert looks a little wider.

Hey Aaron,

If there is no screw down crown, the problem is most likely elsewhere. The problems I was running into seemed to be a result of the sprung pressure of the crown threading onto the tube with a stem that was a touch too long. Since yours is not screw down, there's no pressure.

For those looking for a hack function try this: While in the time setting position, try applying a bit of back pressure on the crown. In most hand wind movements (autos too without hack), this slight back pressure will cause the seconds hand to manually hack until you release the crown from your fingertips. Most of the Swiss 6497's I've owned have functioned in this manner, as well as my Omega SM300 and my MBW's fitted with 2846's.

I suspect only Rolex knows the exact production figures of each watch/reference. Such data would probably be difficult to calculate across all model references, especially with the haphazard serial numbering that Rolex tends to use. I'm quite certain that not even the 'experts' such as dowling and kamal would know such figures...

Interesting... And good to know

Aaron-

Does this watch have a screw down crown? What position are you pulling the crown out to? Is it the winding or time setting position?

It almost sounds as though the stem is too long... But this would be the case if the crown was a screw down. I've had a couple of watches that exhibited this problem- Runs fine when the crown is simply sitting out in the winding position, but once screwed down, it binds up. Unthread the crown from the tube and it start running again. A simple matter of shortening the stem very slightly fixed the problem; just thought I'd mention it since the symptoms seemed to be similar...

Today it's my MBW 1665 frankenstein with genuine parts...

if you're installing a new 2.0 or 2.1mm palp crown, youll need to grind down the lever some before you can close it.

Exactly why I recommend testing everything with the CG on. Some need the lever trimmed slightly; some don't.

Pretty straight forward- Insert the crown/stem assembly into a pin vise, or clamp using some needle nose pliers on the threaded portion of the stem and simply unthread the crown. In some cases, you may want to apply some heat to the base of the crown to loosen the glue securing the crown to the threads, but it should unthread pretty easily. Next, thread on the new crown to the stem and try lining everything up in the stem tube in the case. In some cases, the base of the crown might not fit as it's too large (I don't think this is the case with Palp's new crowns- they should fit properly); in this situation, it is advised to grind out the inner diameter of the tube until the crown base does fit, but again, this is probably not going to be a problem with Tommy's new run of 2.1mm crowns. Next- Check the length of the stem; it might be too long or too short with the new crown, so trimming of the stem may be necessary (or a new stem cut to fit if the original is too short). Once everything is adjusted to preference, secure the crown to the stem using loc-tite and allow cure time. reinstall is the reverse process of crown/stem removal from the movement. Test everything with the CG installed prior to buttoning up the case, and you're set.

Outstanding projects! Both of them...

Looking forward to #3, 4 & 5!

What's long, hard and full of sea men?

Usually they just fall out.

Yessir- The GMT uses the 6mm Twinlock crown/tube set while the Sub uses a 7mm Triplock crown/tube set

I've got this one on today...

I often do wonder just how many customs officers have confiscated reps on their wrists...

Impossible is NOTHING!

49mm.... Jeebus. That's a bit... Big?

Admin,

Have you made a stop by Nathan Road yet?

Very pleased with my 009's AR coat...

My vote is genuine because of the bezel. I've only seen one bezel look like that, and it comes from Rolex S.A.

My case has at least 8mm of depth to allow for the crystal...