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ubiquitous

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Posts posted by ubiquitous

  1. Got into the office this morning, and didn't particularly feel very motivated to do much of anything. So... To get my day going, I cracked open a Mountain Dew to wake me up a little, broke out my camera (which I happened to have with me today), and snapped a quick pic of the Daytona on a sheet of printer paper with my desk lamp providing the lighting. Pulled the image off the camera, tweaked it in PS a little and flipped it all to grey scale... What do you guys think? Time to get rid of the granite? (haha... Never!)

    86897-29249.jpg

  2. I doubt it. This has the best cg's (spiky and thin) I've ever seen...and superb dial (for once the SUBMARINER text/font looks right). This one takes TT Subs to another level. True, the insert is probably too dark and it would be nice to see the dial color in daylight.

    But very difficult to call out a rep...even for us.

    I guess I'd still do a few mods (personally)... Like a gen 16613 insert and crown/tube. But that's all it really needs (in my opinion) to really put this one over the top. I know Toni is a resourceful guy with good parts connections, and I also know he can do the mods too, so I'm curious to know if there's more to come for this one?

  3. Yes he is. David has been a huge asset to the community and an excellent resource of very unique product offerings. I think we all agree that David's efforts speak volumes for his enthusiasm of the hobby, and that he is a valued member, dealer and friend to the board.

  4. Okay... Not wanting to re-invent the wheel, here is a good write up and overview on uncasing a 6497 from a Panerai case by Ziggy:

    http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1416

    So, to start this project, simply follow Ziggy's excellent step by step tutorial to remove the movement and dial assembly :) NOTE: Rob states to release the stem in the winding position; I personally release mine in the time setting position (and have done so with no problems thus far), but who am I to argue with the Robster? The man knows his movements!

    Anyhow...

    Once the assembly is removed from the case, secure the movement in a movement holder, and start by removing the hands.

    86492-29319.jpg

    You can use a specific tool made just for hand removal; I myself use two very small 1.0mm screwdrivers with a bit of tape wrapped around the tip to prevent scratching. Gently slide the blade under the hands and very, very gently work the hands off the pinions. Since this movement is hour and minute only, there's no need to preset the time to 12:00 or anything for a baseline on the date changeover; it simply aint there :lol:

    86492-29320.jpg

    Next, remove the dial. There are two very small lock screws right next to where the movement clamps secure to the movement.

    86492-29321.jpg

    If you look very closely, one edge of the screw head is flat; what you'll want to do is line the flat edge up with the dial feet. Once both screw heads are aligned as such, the dial is ready to come off, and should lift free. Once the dial is off, simply replace it with the new dial and lock the dial feet back in with the lock screws. Flip the movement back over and it's time to set the hands back on. Personally, I like to go the low buck route with hand pressing tools- I use an empty BIC pen tube, which has done the job well and without any scratches. You can opt for a specialized tool; whichever method you feel the most comfortable with is what I recommend :) For best results and ideal alignment, set the hands at 12:00. This provides a good basis for proper hand alignment around the dial and also allows you the chance to look at the hands from the side to make sure that the hands are not coming into contact with each other, or the dial. Once confirmed that all is clearing properly, the watch is ready to be re-cased. Rob has provided the procedure for this as well in the link above. Once the watch is re-cased, and the stem is reinstalled, I recommend pulling the crown out to the time setting position, and giving the hands a full revolution around the dial to make sure that there are no issues with the hands contacting each other.

    And, there you have it. Sorry the pictures are all poor quality (and relatively old). Perhaps, if time allows this weekend, I will take one of my watches apart for some updated pics of the procedure.

    Hope this helps!!

    Best,

    Randy

  5. Okay guys, I'll put together a crash course in dial swapping. I will try to do it with some old pics that I have; unfortunately, I have no need to take one of my current PAMs apart, so I'd rather not tear into one if I don't have to.

    I'll try to get this posted tonight...

  6. It's technically not a sandwich dial as there is only a single plane on the dial, and the numerals/indicies are not cut all the way through. Rather, the indicies are slightly recessed and then filled with tritium and then coated with varnish on top (for the genuine that is).

    David's may be similar, though the pictures may not accurately reflect it.

  7. I'm gonna have to order the dial from him. i have the older version 201a, but the bolder font is killer.

    Do I have to have Ziggy like skills to exchange the dial. Any pointers would be great.

    Eddy

    Nah... Dial swap is pretty easy to do. I can walk you through it, if you're wanting to give it a try. Since it's a base, you only have to deal with 2 hands, and since they're pretty large, they're easy to work with. When the time comes, just shoot me a PM.

    Is your old case also from David?

  8. The 'screws' are only small, flat, hex shaped metal discs with a slot in the center, and are glued into place in the bezel hole. If you can remove the bezel, you can probably drop some solvent onto the 'screw' head which should penetrate under the disc. I suggest doing this with the bezel off of the watch because you don't want the solvent to damage any of the gaskets or seals. Once you have the screw head off, it's simply a matter of gluing back into place with correct alignment...

  9. When you're not wearing the watch, try experimenting with setting the case in different positions (e.g. dial up, dial down, crown left, right, etc). Some positions will cause your watch to run faster, slower, or dead on due to gravity, side load and so on. If you have your COSC certificate, it should list which positions your specific watch generates +/- as I believe they time the watch in the different positions over the course of their evaluation.

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