ubiquitous

I seem to remember that Ziggy mentioned that he found it impossible to obtain spare parts for the Seagull tourbillion.

I've always been tempted by these beauties, but the spare parts issue raised by Rob has always made me think twice...

Have a look at the back of the watch where the collars for the pushers seat to the case:

Should be fairly quick and easy to see if one of the recesses is cut too deep, or if one of the collars is too short...

It's possible that the top pusher's base may have been cut too short, or the recess for the threaded collar to sit in has been cut too deep.

davidsen has some T-SWISS-T dials

Got this as a gag-gift souvenier from my Dad on his last trip to NYC...

It's quartz movement is super accurate

Chris,

Well said, and yes, updating a 'Best Sub' list would indeed be a full time job in and of itself. These things are updating constantly, and compounded by the many different factories from which they originate. You can blink an eye and most everything will have probably changed already with the next update to supercede...

It's a dynamic world with reps... The only thing that stays relatively static is that you can count on change

Randy

What's this 'Alexis'? Some sort of rating scale?

Typically these watches carry the Chinese movements. Take for example... The advertisement I saw featured a Daytona-esque watch with day and date subdials (I think it was a steinhauer). Looked like a Canal Street quality case, and overall had the appearance of being a low cost, over priced rep watch with a different logo on the dial. And, I wouldn't doubt it one bit if it came from the same factory as an equally low quality rep...

Very nice and congrats! There's nothing like owning the real thing!

:wacko:

I think I've seen the Klaus Kobec watches advertised in Car and Driver magazines... Along with Steinhauer. Both advertise the same thing; watches with an implied value of several thousands of dollars selling for a fraction of the cost (I think the slogan is something to the effect of '$189 on the wrist, $3,000 in your pocket').

For me, personally, I think I'd prefer to buy some vintage Seikos or reps for the same money.

Looking good, Mark! That's one beauty of a movement!

As BT mentioned... Both are 100%. $2400 is a smokin deal for the 16610...

78350/19... Dat's what you want...

440 is magnetic, while 316 is not. Just use a magnet to check if you think the MBW is 440. 440 has no nicket while 316 has 11-14% nickel. I doubt 440 is used because it is magnetic.

Very interesting! Learn something new every day...

The rehaut is the metal ring that surrounds the dial and sits beneath the crystal (it also provides a lip for the crystal and/or gasket to seat against). I've marked it in red in this pic...

Sweet bike, Warr! And an equally impressive collection of quality PAMs!! I am eyeballing that WM 3646...

LMAO!

Oh, you'll most definitely want a different crown; Palp has the right ones- Nice and thick with the correct ridges and bevel on the edge. T'is a very worthwhile upgrade!

The cannon pinion looks pretty good on that one though...

Good thing Marco had some pics! I have nothing collected in my database for Bubblebacks....

Just swap to a genuine dial. Fixes all of your problems at once for a lowly cost of $280*

*Typical cost

Don't make me weigh my Special Edition Weber Panerai Edition charcoal grill with propane reserve and running thermometer @ 9:00!

B16A2 head with a B18B block?

Do you have lug holes exposed on the side of the case, or is it solid?

If there are lug holes: Insert your springbar tool of choice into the exposed lug holes and push the springbar end in. While the springbar end is compressed, give downward pressure to the top of the end link with your thumb. Repeat on the other side, and the end link will slide down and off the case.

If the lugs are solid: You will need to approach this from the bottom of the end links where there are notches cut to expose the springbar ends. Insert your springbar tool into the notch, and compress the end by pressing on the [censored] of the springbar. Again, apply downward pressure to the top surface of the end link with your thumb, which will pop the springbar end out of it's hole. Repeat on the otherside, and you're done.

Wow!! That is one fantastic find, Ludo! Especially for the money paid! Well done!

If I said I wasn't jealous, I'd be lying through my teeth