ubiquitous

Wowzers! Floris is going to have all sorts of goodies!!

Hopefully, this one made it to him safe and sound as well...

Looks very nice indeed! I'd like to know what motivational drive this watch has as well. Due to the spacing of the subdials, I'm guessing it's not 7750 (Asian or Swiss) based?

Excellent!! I'm also quite pleased to see more and more people willing to give this stuff a try!

Good stuff!

I agree with my friend Tribal! A genuine crown and tube are a great upgrade! Not only aesthetically, but functionally too! Good improvement for the money...

That is just so nice watch

Gee, tanks, Dani!!

Looking good!! Glad to see the 1950 is back in action!

Man... The caseback engraving on the Cali dial 3646 is VERY nice touch! I love it!

Worth keeping? I'd say so! T'is top notch!!

WOW, Eddie! Very impressive!!

I'm not typically a RG or FM kind of guy, but this is simply a wow piece! Well done!

It's a davidsen PVD day for me today...

But of course! That would be DW directly...

You have PM...

Can you build me one ?

Peeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

The datewheel itself should fit just fine. The alignment of the date numerals is what should be checked, however it has been my experience that the datewheel overlays are pretty general across either ETA or Miyota/21j copy movements.

Whenever I'm asked about one of my vintage Rolex frankensteins I just straight up tell them the truth- I built it! Some parts are genuine, some parts are aftermarket... At that point people are more interested in the fact that I built the watch up than if it's real or fake. And then I'm typically asked if I can build them one...

K-

Sorry to see you leave I wish you well, and hope you'll reconsider joining us again soon...

Best regards,

R

I have to agree- I like the weight of the hollow link Oysters.

Hey, Arthur!

Thanks much for the very kind words!

The model I have is the no-date 165.024, so no date window on the dial to allow crumbs of tritium to fall through. However, I am still a bit concerned about the tritium on the hands. There are signs of cracking, and I want to make sure that none of the crumbs fall into the movement to cause problems. So... I'll probably start my hunt for some new parts as well from watchco or watchadoo to replace the old aging bits (I'll put those away for safe keeping; it's always nice to be able to say you have the original parts still).

Please post some pics of your 166.024 twins! I'd love to see them!

Cheers,

Randy

I just LOVE the clear, highly detailed photos!

Very nice!! Looks great!

Yes, Randy was gonna have a go but I think that some folks on here put him off with the whole radioactive chat......rubbish.....

Actually, the stuff I have access to is straight up radium. If it were just tritium, it wouldn't be so much of a problem...

Wow... That arrived rather quick! Good match with the dial and hands, eh?

I am not sure yet which one this weekend. hhhmmlet me think. If you think you are seeing double there in that pic,,you are correct

Looks like one of the twins is still sporting it's plastic wrap!

Tommy-

VERY nice!!

It's hard to believe that anyone could be so heartless as to commit such crimes...

Hmmmm. Very interesting. I just measured the crown on my davidsen 009, and it would appear that it is very near to being 2.0mm thick. Perhaps it doesn't have the appearance of being very thick because of the bevel? Can anyone else with a davidsen confirm?

Hey, Tommy. Would any modifications be needed for the 2.2mm crowns to work? As Ziggy mentioned prior, the thicker crown might not allow the stem to be fully pulled out/extended to the time setting position; I just pulled the crown on my Davidsen 009 to the time setting position, and with the thinner crown the outer edge is already almost touching the inside of the crown guard.

I'd absolutely like to fit the thicker 2.2mm one to my watch, but am concerned about this potential issue