ubiquitous

Is this true? The 1575 will drop into my WM1665?? If so, then I am in for one!!!

Unfortunately, it's not a straight installation on the 1665 either. The rehaut needs to be trimmed slightly so that the stem lines up center in the tube.

Indeed, but in this case, the results would be worth it

Hmmmm... Maybe the moderators can move your water resistance test threads to the knowledge base? It is definitely some good information, especially to see and understand how the tests are performed.

I've got 2846's in my 1665, 1680, and also had one in the Tudor Sub I just parted with. They carry the same exact dimensions as an ETA 2836, so they are a direct replacement:

Only thing is that the ETA datewheels rotate clockwise, so you're stuck with a typical rep overlay for the datewheel.

I haven't had a chance to fit the AS movements yet; both of mine need to be serviced, and I just have not gotten around to doing this. Since Ziggy is out for the Summer, I have some time on my hands...

The Schilds seem to have the same dimensions and stem position as the 2836/46, so I don't suspect there will be any real issues there either. The problem I've observed with the Schilds is obtaining the proper spacing between the dial and movement to allow the datewheel to freely rotate. I have some ideas, but nothing really nailed down as of yet.

Well... It's probably going to be less than a mm that has to be machined- Not sure exactly how much, but you are corect- This is to center the winding stem in the tube.

So, depending on how much material has to be trimmed, it may not make that much of a difference.

Has anyone heard from saabin? He had to do this on his 1665 DRSD project....

I got my wife a PAM051 a year or so ago, and converted it to a 049 with some colorful straps.

She never wears it anymore, though....

I believe that the case requires some trimming to the back of the rehaut- Not sure how much exactly, though I believe less than 1mm should be enough to get everything to line up. Of course, it is always best to check, double check and triple check all measurments prior to doing any machining; once you remove material, you can't put it back as easily...

Micha-

Can you post a reference picture of what you need?

Excellet pic and great composition!

Some of my favorites for eye candy...

Speake-Marin Piccadilly:

Philippe DuFour Simplicity:

Prototype F.P. Journe Remontoir:

And, if pocket watches count...

G.P. 3 Gold Bridges Esmerelda

Folks, $850 is a phenominal deal for a 1570/1575!

How many do you think you can get, Chris?

BT- Any idea how big that one is?

EDDIE posted the beast as well...check it out...

Just spent the last couple minutes cracking up while reading Eddie's listing for this one. Man, I love that guy!

Wow.... That's sucker's massive!

Dunno that I'd buy one, but I'm glad to see that other brands are getting some attention this year!

Tommy is a top notch guy!

If he had to access the dial, he would have had to uncase the movement to get to it. Once the caseback is popped, it's no secret...

EDIT: After re-reading the initial thread, I see that the watch repair guy identified this as a rep prior to opening the watch up. Guess I need to pay better attention to posts

Last DW told me, a 'new' movement would cost $150...

Ouch! Not sure who you can try for repairs/overhauls these days- Ziggy's not touching them anymore, spare parts are nearly impossible to source- Even if you get a movement from DW to replace the broken with, there's no guarantee as to what condition that one will be in. My recommendation- Us DW owners need to put our heads together and come up with some sort of collective solution to these movements- A replacement movement that won't break the bank, easy to source with replacement parts available.

Over the past 9 months, I've seen 1570's and 1575's selling for around $800 to $900 US- So, I would say if the price is in that ball park, it's a good buy!

And, I should also add- Chris is a phenominal source for rare vintage RLX parts! He has some incredibly good stuff at extremely reasonable prices. For anyone looking for parts to complete a project, check with Chris to see what he has!

A very smart product option and offering in my opinion. There are a number of members who are interested in having their watch(es) modified; by having an intitial servicing/overhaul as well as mods performed at the time of purchase of the watch, the buyer is then in the position to start enjoying their new time piece immediately upon receipt (rather than having to go through the proces of receiving the watch, send it it out for mods and work, etc)...

For those who don't care for mod work... Well, that angle is covered as well

Good stuff indeed!!

Not a hybrid- That is a rep of the Omega Seamaster 2254.50.00.

Looks like the He Valve is also too low, and the opening for the crown in the CG's needs to be more pronounced.

A pic of the genuine (from Blowers Jewelers):

Unfortunately, the one on eBay isn't the legendary Faldo rep. Rather, it's a rep of the standard 14790ST.0.0789ST.07; similar style dial as the steel/platinum 15190SP.0.0789ST.01 (but missing the clous de Paris motif in the center), and also has the solid back (which is okay, as it would hide the ETA). Also, note the seconds hand....

My old and very much missed AP Royal Oak Faldo rep. I regret the day I parted with it now...

(thought I had a pic of the caseback with display, but I cannot find it to post...)

Hmmmm... I don't have any real side shots...

Would this work?

Today:

Saturday:

Sunday:

Errrrr... Typically, the screw pins that secure that strap at the lugs are a single, long pin that threads into the lug/case. But, what you're explaining sounds more like there are two screw heads; one at each side?