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ubiquitous

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Posts posted by ubiquitous

  4. New movement for my 1665?

    in Watch Repair & Upgrade

    Posted · Edited by ubiquitous

    nice, have you fiddled around a bit with it?

    i came to conclusion, when my new hands set arrived, the AS movement wont accept the ETA seconds hand, the hour, and minute are fine, the secondhand seems to have too large a tube to fit the pinion.

    SD- The seconds hand for the ETA's are definitely too big. ETA 2836-2/2846/2824-2/2892 are all 90/150/25; The AS is 90/150/22. So, the seconds hand has to be reduced.

  8. Rolex Experts........

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Everytime I wind my DW copy v72 movement I keep thinking I'm going to hurt it...these movements are not great. That said, I can't take my 6263 off...I love it.

    I feel the same way. With every wind, I feel like I'm slowly bringing the watch to it's grave. Of course, it doesn't help that the original movement in my watch had winding issues. I'm a little gun shy to say the least.

  9. Pre-A PVD PAM

    in Watch Repair & Upgrade

    Posted

    The Panerai Tritium seems to age to the pinkish beige and sometimes yellow-ish patina prematurely because of the varnish used to coat it. This was a problem even up to the F serialed Submersibles (mostly on the hands). Lots of owners would send theirs in to be changed under warrantly as corrosion was speading onto the hands' borders.

    All in all, looking good, Mark. The only apparent issue I see is with the shape of the numerals on the dial and the size of the baton markers, since the Pre-A's used Pre-V dial left overs. None the less, a nice job :)

  10. Rolex Experts........

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    I must say first and foremost- I love my DW 6263 dearly. But, the manual winding just kills me. It has a V23 copy movement in it, and even though the power reserve is 56 hours, the winding every 2 days is a bit much. I spend more time looking at it than wearing it these days.

  11. Rolex Experts........

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Woody,

    The pushers should be asymmetric, i.e the bottom is spaced a little more offset tan the top. Here's an image to help illustrate:

    10692-4847.jpg

    10692-4848.jpg

    Note the spacing of the top pusher compared to the bottom in relation to the crown as the centerpoint.

    With regards to the movements used per generation, they are as follows:

    Vintage Cosmographs (6239/6241/6262/6263/6265) 1960 - 1988

    Caliber 727 Valjoux 72 based handwind 19800bph

    Daytona (16520, etc) 1988 - 2000

    Caliber 4030 Zenith Daytona based automatic 28800bph

    Daytona (116520) 2000 - present

    Caliber 4130 1st Rolex in house chronograph movement 28800bph.

    The vintage Daytonas were not popular in their time. The reason being is that they were manual wind with a screw down crown. Hence the majority sat in dealer displays until the early - mid 80's when the Italians went crazy over the Exotic dial variants thanks to a (mysterious) correlation to actor Paul Newman (the Exotic dial subsequently went on to be known as Paul Newman dial Daytonas). There is much speculation over the origins of this relation of the watch and the actor; nothing as been determined as fact. Their exclusivity has only increased in the past few years pushing values up past ridiculous levels (of which I have my own personal theories and thoughts).

    Anyways...

    Hope this information helps a little.

    Best,

    R

  12. Rolex Experts........

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Woody,

    The watch you have there is a replication of the Cosmograph 6263, which was in production from 1970 until the late 80's (I want to say '87 or '88, when the 16520 made it's debut). The case should measure 37.x mm (this measurement varies for genuines, as fractions of a mm can be taken off during case refinishing), the lugs should measure 19mm, and the bracelet should have the following markings on the backside (which I suspect your's might):

    78350

    19

    And the end links should be signed '571'.

    If yours' is stamped with these markings, then you've got one of the more faithful to genuine replications out there.

    As for your question on the cheap, flimsy feel of the bracelet- That is correct. (genuine) Rolex bracelets have always felt a little flimsy compared to others (like Omega), as they use rolled, hollow midlinks, and stamped metal for clasps (prior to this they used folded links, which felt even lighter, and more flimsy, along with riveted links, which felt a little more substantial). It's funny- I was wearing my DW 6263 the other day, and I was thinking the exact same thing as you- The small clasp kinda does make it feel like a ladies' watch, at least, in comparison to more contemporary bracelets.

    :lol:

    Enjoy the new watch!

    Cheers,

    R

  16. Vintage 7928 Tudor Submariner

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Thanks, gang! I appreciate the kind comments!

    This one is bitter sweet for me- I was planning to use the 1680 case for, well, a 1680, and the Tudor was going to get it's own case, built up from scratch. Anyhow... A temporary set back. Not a huge deal.

    It's funny... I initially set about wanting to build a nice Tudor Sub after seeing your guys' (being edge and RPS). The kicker for me was when RPS and I were discussing his before purchase. I was smitten by it's simplicity, and strong relation to the 5513. Plus, it's a watch that's not seldom seen, which really appealed to me.

    Think I will swap the bracelet out for a rivet band, like your's RPS. it looks especially nice with that combo!

    I'll post some pics of the case that I was going to use... :)

    Best regards,

    Randy

  17. How to fix a MBW DRSD with a loose bezel?

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Very easy to fix.

    First, you need to pop the bezel off. I use my debit card to wedge between the bezel and case. I use my debit card as it's soft plastic, and there's no risk in scratching the case. I start right above the lugs, and work my way up around towards 12:00. Usually, by the time I reach 12:00, the bezel is raised up enough to simply pull it off with my fingers.

    With the bezel off, you will notice a washer spring that sits between the bezel and the crystal ring. Give that washer a very slight, gentle bend. This will provide enough tension to keep the bezel from spinning freely. If you want to turn the bezel, it's as simple as pushing the bezel against the case and rotating. When you let up on the bezel, it should remain stationary where you set it.

    Hope this helps.

    Best regards,

    Randy

  19. What Mods Do You Have in the Works?

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by ubiquitous

    My very modest projects (always in progress):

    MBW 1665 Sea-Dweller (vintage MBW):

    -ETA 2836-2 replaced with a 2846 for a more accurate beat

    -New dial

    -Genuine bezel insert

    -Genuine Tropic39 (flat)

    -Genuine crown

    -Genuine tube

    -Genuine springbars

    -CG's slightly shaped/cleaned up

    -Lugs drilled

    -Genuine 580 end links

    -Aftermarket hollow link Oyster bracelet

    Next:

    -?? ;)

    http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=381&hl=

    MBW 1680 turned vintage Tudor 7928 Submariner:

    -ETA 2846

    -Tudor 7928 dial

    -Genuine Tudor hands (relumed)

    -Genuine bezel insert

    -Genuine Tropic19 (flat)

    -Genuine springbars

    -CG's slightly shaped/cleaned up

    -Lugs drilled

    -Aftermarket hollow link Oyster bracelet

    Next:

    -?? ;)

    http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1216&hl=

    DW 6263 vintage Daytona:

    -Genuine Tropic21

    -Genuine springbars

    -Dial lume aged

    Next:

    -Genuine crown

    -Genuine tube

    http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=385&hl=

    16234 DateJust frankenstein:

    -Genuine case

    -Genuine bezel

    -Genuine crystal

    -Genuine dial

    -Genuine tube

    -Genuine crown

    -Tudor OysterDate hands

    -ETA 2836-2

    -Datewheel overlay

    -Aftermarket Jubilee bracelet

    -Replica clasp

    Next:

    -New movement (TBD)

    http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=109&hl=

    16520 Daytona frankenstein:

    -Genuine case

    -Genuine bezel

    -Genuine crystal

    -Genuine crown

    -Genuine tube

    -Genuine pushers

    -Repainted dial on a genuine Rolex dial base

    -Genuine hands

    -Genuine bracelet

    Next:

    -Adding the correct El Primero 400

    -(possibly) Genuine 4030 rotor

    -(possibly) Genuine 4030 bridge

    http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=110&hl=

    3646 vintage hommage Radiomir frankenstein:

    -PAM183 replica case

    -WM dial (trimmed to fit)

    -Hands aged

    -WM solid caseback

    -UT6497 modified to eliminate the small seconds @ 9:00

    -MF 26/26 strap

    http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=226&hl=

    [EDIT]

    Ooops... Forgot to add my AP Royal Oak to the list (DOH)

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (36mm thin case):

    -Bezel refinished

    -Bezel screws WG plated

    Next:

    -?? Perhaps a new dial and genuine clasp (if I can swing the deal)? ;)

    Lots of new parts en route at the moment, and lots in the storage box... Dunno what tomorrow will bring ;)

    Regards,

    Randy

  23. Vintage 7928 Tudor Submariner

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Ever have one of those days where things just don't go the way you had planned? Today was such a day, and despite some frustrating obstacles, things turned out... well, kind of okay.

    The watch in the following pictures was meant to be something else. Here's how it started life:

    8987-5180.jpg

    Yup, that's my former MBW 1680.

    My initial intent was to build my Tudor Submariner from a completely different case, but the dial I received was too small to fit, and hence my dilemma. What to do? Well, not wanting to let something like this get in my way, I promptly tore open my MBW 1680, and found the dial to be a perfect fit for this case; I decided to use it. The following is my newly assembled Tudor Submariner 7928 consisting of:

    -New dial

    -Genuine Tudor hands (relumed)

    -Genuine T-19

    -Genuine insert/acrylic pearl

    -ETA 2846 21600bph movement :rolleyes:

    -MBW case

    -Aftermarket hollow link bracelet

    -MBW clasp with ungrooved fliplock fitted

    And, the finished product...

    8987-5181.jpg

    8987-5182.jpg

    8987-5183.jpg

    8987-5184.jpg

    8987-5185.jpg

    So, it looks like I'm now the market for a new MBW 1680 to finish my other project :blink:

    Heehee.

    Thanks for looking!

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