dieselpower

Here is a photo of what the subdial spacing would be like on a 7750 powered 6263. Notice that the subdials are slightly closer to the index markers than on the gen. For me, that is a small price to pay for what is, overall a very good and reasonably priced rep. And yes, all the subdials work as they should.

If it's 7750 powered the subdial spacing is incorrect but for me, not too big a deal.

Thanks automatico. Very useful info., looks like my theory about the existence of domed T22's could be right. I think we can put this topic to bed now with the conclusion that: All 1016's were fitted with Tropic 22 xtals. Some early T22's were domed in profile but are no longer available. To replicate this look on a rep 1016 you must use a custom made bezel that takes a T21 domed glass OR use some of that metal filler stuff (!) that rolojack used to fill the gap that exists if you try to use a T21 xtal inside a T22 bezel as the T21 is 0.5mm smaller in diameter than the T22.

Yes there are. You need to find yourself a Spinmaster.

The originals came with domed xtals. However, the watch went in for service in the past 20 or so years, it came out with a beveled service xtal. Point being that either is correct & which you use depends on your preference & bank account.

OK. So. This makes sense but doesn't account for the difference in size of the xtals. I don't know (obviously) but I'd hazard a guess that the original domed xtal was a domed version of the T22 (larger) one which they don't make anymore and the nearest thing in looks is the T21 domed which is is close but still 0.5mm smaller and therefore never intended for use on an explorer. However, fitting one with the custom made JMB bezel is probably not something which would be noticeable to the naked eye. Come to think of it this guesswork holds water because my watchsmith who looks after my wife's gen semi bubbleback c.1952 explained that the watch should have a domed xtal (indeed it did have many years ago when I bought it) but it has now been swapped out for a bevel edge (I bet it's a T22) because the domed glass is no longer available.

Clear as mud? Hope so.

Thanks for the input chaps. I'm still none the wiser. I personally prefer the domed glass and that's what I'm going with. That's not the question. I was just curious as to what Rolex did in the first place. Anybody know?

I'm a bit out of touch with what is available out of the box from dealers but the biggest problem with this 6263 is the position of the pushers. If you look at a gen you will see the the bottom pusher is positioned further way from the winding crown than the top pusher, like this:

It looks to me as if the pushers in the puretime Daytona are equally spaced. It's difficult to tell in some photos but I hope you can see what I mean.

Some of you may know I'm starting a 1016 build. Nothing new there. I bought a JMB caseset then rather fancied a domed glass so he's made me a new bezel so I can fit a domed T21 to the case. Not only do I prefer domed glasses but I also presumed that the domed glass was period correct for an early 1960's 1016. 

Then I saw this photo of a 1964 1016:

Clearly a bevel edged glass.

Now, as I understand it the Tropic 21 domed glass is 0.5mm smaller in diameter than the Tropic 22 bevel edged glass. Also I thought that the glass on a gen 1960's 1016 was a Tropic 21. Ergo the T22 would not fit. So, if the above photo is correct - what's the story? Can anybody clear this conundrum up?

Welcome aboard.

A friend of mine has just emigrated to USA from UK and he says that prices are basically the same in $ as they are in £. So, we are being fleeced in the UK. However, he did say that the only thing he has found to be more expensive in the USA is a haircut! Go figure!

Thanks for the tips, looks like a bit of a perilous undertaking!

Beautiful watch. Well done.

All fantastic stuff in this thread and very helpful for my build. Now, as to the case re-shaping does anybody out there have any comparison shots of a case before 'slimming down' and after. I'm keen to replicate this but don't really know where the case needs to go on a diet. Cheers for any help and advice.

Sorry for late response, but no idea! I don't think so.

Twelve inches is a foot. (Sorry couldn't resist).

New bezel ordered. Cheers chaps.

OK. So, if I get a new T21 friendly bezel from jmb, I can use my SK domed T21 and crack on with the build? Yes?

OK Cheers alligoat. The hunt is on..

So, I have a caseset with the clarks T22 in it. I like the look of the domed crystals. I also have an SK T21 in my box of spare parts. Is it feasible to send that along with all the other bits and my modder to fit a T21 to the JMB case with a little jiggery pokery? Does that sound like a plan? Will the net result be like rolojack's pictures?

Pardon my ignorance, but what is wrong with the glass that comes with the JMB caseset?

Calling freddy333, calling freddy333..... do you read me freddy333?

Lovely piece. Awww now I've got a problem. Re-lume 'bone white' or creamy yellow? Decisions decisions...

Sounds like you're in the same boat as me. I'm putting together a 1016 at the moment - I wanted to replicate the Ian Fleming model. The only place I could find a chapter ring dial with white lettering was NDTrading and I don't want to spend $300 on the dial, especially as I already have a whoopy dial the same as tomhorn's one as above. I'm leaning towards doing exactly what tomhorn has done, I think that's a lovely 1016 by the way Mr Horn! Another thing to take note of is the positioning of the Swiss - T 25 lettering at the bottom of the dial. Sometimes written like whoopy's near the top of the index markers, sometimes written - like Mazzariol's picture - in the middle of the index markers. I'll be following this thread closely - I need guidance myself. All the best with your build Lo', something tells me we might end up with twins!

All interesting stuff. Thanks for the input people. My mate has possibly got a contact who can give him 30% discount on new Rolex. Does this affect anyones suggestions?

@ thesheriff, sent you a PM